
it*- %v* 




V s s ' yy > .0 r %■ 1 ' , 6 



' n - v * 



J* 




.1^ » v 



O 




THE 



FAMILY KITCHEN GAEDENER; 

CONTAINING 

PLAIN AND ACCURATE DESCRIPTIONS 

OF ALL THE 

DIFFERENT SPECIES AND VARIETIES 

OF 

CULINARY VEGETABLES; 

WITH 

THEIR BOTANICAL, ENGLISH, FRENCH, AND GERMAN NAMES, ALPHABETICALLY 
ARRANGED, AND THE BEST MODE OF CULTIVATING THEM, IN THE GARDEN 
OR UNDER GLASS; "WITH A DESCRIPTION OF IMPLEMENTS AND 
MEDICINAL HERBS LN GENERAL USE, 

ALSO, 

DESCRIPTIONS AND CHARACTERS OF THE MOST SELECT 
FRUITS, THEIR MANAGEMENT, PROPAGATION, ETC. 

ILLUSTRATED WITH TWENTY-FIVE ENGRAVINGS, 

J 

BY ROBERT BLIIST, 

AUTHOR OF THE AMERICAN FLOWER-GARDEN' DIRECTORY, ROSE MANUAL, ETC. 



NEW-YORK: 
PUBLISHED BY C. M. SAXTON; 

J . O . BIKER. 

1854. 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the 5^ear 184% 
B Y R. BUIST, 
in the office of the District Court for the Eastern District o£ 
Pennsylvania. 



STEREOTYPED BY C. DAVISON ft CO., 
No. 33 Gold street, New- York. 




CONTENTS. 



Almond 


Page. 




Page. 


Pepper 


97 


- 156 


Fennel 


58 


Peach 


195 


Angelica 


- 136 


Fetticus 


49 


Pear 


197 


Anise-seed - 


- 137 


Fig - - 


- 173 


Pennyroyal - 


143 


Apple 


- 157 


Filbert 


- 175 


Peppermint 


143 


Apricot - » 


- 165 


Foreign Grape, 


- 184 


Plum 


205 


Application of remarks 


Fruits 


- 143 


Portugal Cabbage — 




to various parts of 


Garden 


- 7, 17 


Preface 


the United States 147 


Garden Seeds, list of 18 


Potato 


98 


Artichoke - 


- 19. 63 


Garlic 


- 59 


Pumpkin 


105 


Asparagus - 


Of\ 


Gooseberry - 


- 176 


Quince 


209 


rJalra 


137 


Grafting 


150, 151 


Radish 


105 


casil 


24 


Grape 


- 178 


Raspberry - 


210 


Beans 


25 


Grapery 


- 186 


Rosemary - 


144 


Beet - 


28 124 


Grape Vine - 


- 173 


Rotation of Crops 


9 


Blessed Thistle 


138 


Horehound - 


- 141 


Rhubarb 


109 


Borage 


138 


Horseradish 


59 


Rue 


144 


Borecole 


30 


Hyssop 


- 142 


Rutabaga 


130 


Broccoli 


31 


Implements - 


10 


Sage 


145 


Brussels Sprouts 


32 


Indian Corn 


61 


Saisafy 


114 


Budding 


152 


Indian Cress 


62 


Scorzonera - 


115 


Burnet 


33 


Jerusalem Artichoke 63 


Scurvy Grass 


145 


Cabbage 


34 


Lambs' Lettuce 


49 


Sea-Kale 


116 


Caraway 


139 


Lavender - 


- 142 


Shallot 


119 


Cardoon 


40 


Leek 


64 


Skirret 


120 


Carrot 


41 


Lettuce 


65 


Sorrel 


146 


Cauliflower 


43 


Manure^ 


9 


Spinach 


121 


Celeriac 


AQ 


Marjoram - 


69 


Squash 


123 


Celery 


45 


Melon 


- 70, 73 


Silver Beet - 


124 


Chamomile - 


- 139 


Mint 


74 


Strawberry 


212 


Cherry 


- 16S 


Morel 


75 


Swede Turnip 


130 


Chervil 


48 


Mushroom - 


76 


Swiss Chard 


124 


Chive 


48 


Mustard 


81 


Tansy 


146 


Clary 


- 140 


Nasturtium - 


62 


Tarragon 


124 


Coriander - 


- 140 


Nectarine 


- 193 


Thyme 


125 


Corn Salad - 


49 


New Zealand Spinach 82 


Tomato 


125 


Cow Cabbage — 


Preface 


Nuts 


- 175 


Truffle 


128 


Cress 


50 


Ochro 


88 


Turnip 


129 


Cucumber - 


50 


Okra 


88 


Turnip-rooted Celery 48 


Currant 


- 171 


Onion 


83 


Vegetable Garden, 1 


\ 17 


Dill 


- 140 


Oyster Plant 


- 114 


Vegetable Marrow 


133 


Egg Plant - 


55 


Parsley 


89 


Water Cress 


134 


Elecampane 


- 141 


Parsnep 


90 


Winter Cress 


135 


Endive 


56 


Pea 


92 


Wormwood - 


147 



TABLE DES MATIERES. 



Abricotier - 


- 165 


Boucage 


- 137 


Celeri 


45 


Absinthe 


- 147 


Bourrache - 


- 138 


Centauree - 


138 


Ail 


59 


Broccoli 


31 


Cerfeuil 


48 


Amandier - 


- 156 


Brugnon 


- 193 


Cerisier 


168 


Angelique - 


- 136 


Camomille - 


- 139 


Chicorie 


56 


Artichaut 


19 


Capucine 


62 


Champignon 


75, 76 


Asperg€ 


20 


Cardon 


40 


Chou de Bruxells 


32 


Basalic 


24 


Carotte 


41 


Chouvert - 


30 


Beterave 


28 


Carvi 


- 139 


Choufleur - 


43 



4 



CONTENTS. 



Chou Marin 
Chou Pomme 
Chervis 
Civette 
Coignassier 
Concombre - 
Coriandre - 
Courge 

Course ou Potiron 



Psge. 
116 

34 
120 

48 
209 

50 
140 
10E 
123 



Couve Tronchuda Pref. 
Cranson - 59, 14! 
Cresson 50 
Cresson de Amerique 135 
Fontaine 135 



" " Terre 
Epenard 
Epinard d'ete 
Eschalote - 
Figuier 
Framboisier 
Fraisier 
Gombo 

Groseille a grappes 
d'ourtre - 



135 
121 

32 
119 
173 
210 
212 

88 

171 



49 



Groseille a maque- 
reau 



Page 



Ackersalat - 
Amerikanisher Kresse 

u 135 

137 
16 
15 
19 
24 
48 
197 
43 
138 
134 
138 
140 
58 
124 
56 
136 
212 



Anis 

Aprikosenbaum - 
Apfel 

Artis choke - 
Basilikum - 
Bensenlauch 
Birnbaum - 
Blumenkohl 
Borragen 

Briinnenkresse - 
Cardo benedicten 
Dill 

Dill kraut - 
Dragun 
Endivie 
Engelwurtz - 
Erdbeerpflanze - 



Erde Apfel - 
Erbse 
Essbare 
Feigenbaum 
Gartenkerbel 
Gartensalat - 
Grime Kohl 
Gurke 

Himbee^estrauch 

Inule 

Isop 



63 
92 
75 
173 
48 
65 
30 
50 
210 
141 
142 



Haricot 
Hysope 
Inule 
L'Anith 
L'Astragon 
Laitue 

Lavander - 
Mais 
Mache 
Marjolaine - 
Mellise 
Melon 

Melon d'Eau 
Melongene - 
Men the 
Moutarde 
Navet 
Noisette 
Oignon 
Orvale 
Oseille 
Panais 

IXHALT. 

Italianische Kohl 

Johannisbure 

Kamille 

Kapuzinerbluma - 
Kardonen - 
Kartoffel - 
Kirschenbatim 
Knoblauch - 
Koriander - 
Kresse 
Kummel 
Kiirbis 
Lauch 
Liebes Apfel 
LofTelkraut - 
Mandelbaum 
Marjoran 
Meerkohl 
Mellise 
Melone 
Merrettig 
Mohre 
Munze 

Nectarpfirsche 
Nussbaum 
Pastinake - 
Pempernelle 
Petersilie 
Pfirschbcaim 
Pflaumenbaun 
Poley 



176 

56 

- 142 

- 141 

- 140 

- 124 

65 

- 142 
61 

49 
69 

- 137 
70 

73 
55 

74, 143 



74. 



Patiron 
Pecher 

Petite Pemprenelle 
Persil 

Poire de Terre 
Pois 
Poirier 
Pomme 

Pomme de Terre - 
Porreau 
Pouliot 
Prune 
Rave 
Romarin 
Rubarbe 
Rue 
Salsirls 
Sauge 

Scorzonere - 
Tanaise 
Thym 
Tomate 
Truffe 



81 
129 
175 

83 
140 
146 

90'Vigne 



31 
171 
139 
62 
40 
98 
168 
59 
140 
50 
139 
105 



Quittenbaum 

Rante 

Rettig 

Rheinfarn - 

Rosmarin - 

Rothe Rube 

Rubarber 

Salbey 

Sauerampfer 

Scharlachkraut 

Schminkbohne 

Schullote 



64!Sellerie 
125 Serf 

145 1 Stachelbeerstrauch 
156;Spargel 

69|Spinat 
116 Spiklavandel 
137 Sprossen Kohl - 

70jSteckru.be - 

59: Swiss Chard 

41|Thimian 
143'Tollapfel - 
l93Trufie| 
175|Wasser Melon 

90, Weiss Kopfkohl - 

33iWeintrauben 

89|Wermuth - 
195 Winter Kresse 
205 Zuckerwurzel 
l43Zwiebel 



Page. 
133 

195 

33 
89 
63 
92 
197 
157 
98 
64 
143 
205 
105 
144 
109 
144 
114 
145 
115 
146 
125 
125 
128 
178 



209 
144 
105 
146 
144 

28 
109 
145 
146 
140 

25 
119 

45 

81 
176 

20 
121 
142 

32 
129 
124 
125 

55 
128 

73 

34 
178 
147 
135 
120 

83 



PREFACE. 



Gardening is one cf those occupations that combines pleasure with 
healthful employmer Reason and history unite in regarding it as the 
first pursuit that engaged the attention of man. 

The fruits of the Garden are appreciated by all, and contribute much 
to the pleasures and comforts of life. But many possess gardens un- 
worthy of the name : for want of a knowledge of their management they 
are unable, in season, to supply the wants of their own table. To re- 
medy this deficiency is the object of this compendium. Into it nothing 
has been admitted that is not of the most practical character. It may 
be received as the result of thirty years' experience and observa- 
tion on the cultivation of vegetables axb fruits. To have given 
the reason for many of the operations recommended, or the process by 
which certain conclusions have been arrived at, would have enlarged 
the volume without adding to the value of the advice. It has been the 
object of the author to describe the preparation of the soil, the mode of 
culture, and the best varieties of every fruit or vegetable for market or 
family supply, in the plainest language, and most concise terms. The 
subjects are arranged in alphabetical order, so that any one, in an in- 
stant, for any part of the United States, may see how to cultivate, when 
and what to smo, and when to reap. Hitherto the works on this subject 
have been merely repetitions of European writers, not at all adapt- 
ed to our climate ; or when compiled with some degree of considera- 
tion as to that, yet simply the names of vegetables have been given, 
allowing the gardener or amateur, ungufded, to select whatever might 
strike his fancy, without enabling him tc supply his wants, In thie 
Manual will be found a short but faithful description of the best vegeta- 
bles and fruits ; their period of maturity or their relative earliness or 
ateness, with their Botanical, English, French, and German names — a 
facility not met with in any similar work we have ever seen. 

We have omitted a few vegetables of a coarse description, principally 
raised for cattle, by field culture. Among which are the Portugal, and 
Cow Cabbage. The former appeared lately as a new vegetable, under 
the name of Couve Trpnekuda^ though cultivated twenty years ago under 



vi 



PREFACE. 



the former name. The latter, also an old vegetable, created some ex- 
citement a few years ago • but the mania having died away, it finds its 
merited place. 

The Fruits have been arranged in the order cf their attaining matu- 
rity, and only the best in their season have been selected. It is pre- 
sumed that the list will be found a certain guide to those who wish to 
grow only the best and most prolific sorts. Some selection of this kind 
has for some time been imperatively called for, by the wants of the 
gardener, farmer, and amateur, the multiplicity of sorts in the larger 
works and catalogues rendering them nearly useless to those who merely 
wish to know those kinds adapted for family or market supply. In il- 
lustrating our subject we have endeavored to avoid the use of all tech- 
nical words, and to make every thing so plain that it can be compre- 
hended by the most illiterate. 

In conclusion, if this little manual be the means of diffusing a know- 
ledge of vegetable culture more generally, — of adding to the pleasures of 
iUral life, — of increasing the interest taken in horticultural pursuits ; 
or guiding the gentleman, farmer, or student, in the occupation of his 
leisure hours, it will have attained the objee ot 

The Authob* 

Philadelphia. Feb., 1847 



BUIST'S 



FAMILY KITCHEN GARDENER. 



THE FORMATION OF A VEGETABLE OR KITCHEN 
GARDEN, &c. 

Before proceeding with the subject of vegetable cult are, 
the attention of the reader is requested to some remarks on 
the formation of a Kitchen Garden. This subject is forced 
upon us by a knowledge of how much labor and money are 
expended in producing one misplaced, badly designed, and 
unproductive — a most unpleasant attendant upon a country 
life; when, by the same labor and expense, one could have 
been obtained that would have yielded liberally every pleasure, 
every comfort, and even every luxury for a bountiful table. 

The situation most suitable is a very gentle inclination to- 
ward the east or south-east, that it may have all the advan- 
tages of the morning sun. The next preferable exposure is 
south or south-west ; if sheltered from the north or north-west, 
so much the better. However, avoid the neighborhood of 
large and spreading trees, as their roots will exhaust the soil, 
and their shade injure the crops. 

In selecting the ground, it is of vast importance to have the 
soil of a healthy quality, being mellow, dry, and capable of 
being worked with the spade. The best soils are of a friable 
and loamy texture ; the worst, those of a very light sandy or 
of a stiff clayey description. 

If the bottom or subsoil be retentive, trench £he ground at 



8 BUISTS FAMILY KITCHEN GARIfiNER. 

least eighteen inches deep : good vegetables can never oe pro- 
duced on sour soil, nor on thin soil of only a few inches depth. 
Care and attention are necessary in trenching, as on the pro- 
per disposition at first the after good will follow. I most de- 
cidedly condemn the mode of trenching ground generally 
recommended : that is, to bury the top spit, and turn up the 
cold, sour subsoil. Experience has taught me another lesson : 
Open the first trench two feet wide, by putting aside the top 
spit spade deep ; then turn up the bottom, where it lies, at 
least the full depth of the spade, in the same manner as in 
digging ; throw the top of the next trench* on the top of the 
first subsoil, and so on, till the whole is finished. The gene- 
ral method of trenching is to turn the top soil down and the 
subsoil up. This is attended with evil consequences, as many 
years will elapse before the bad soil, which has been turned 
up, can be made equal to the good soil, which has been turned 
down. 

Another point we call attention to — the inclination of the 
soil. Some authors in this country merely publish the ideas 
of those of Europe, without regard to their applicability to 
this climate, and have recommended an inclination of one foot 
in from fifteen to twenty feet. Such a declivity would, during 
our heavy rains, sweep soil, manure, seeds, &c, to the lowest 
ground. An inclination of one foot in forty, or merely suffi- 
cient to carry off the water, is ail that is requisite. However, 
the means have frequently to be adapted to the ends. If the 
situation be necessarily on the side of a rising ground, throw 
it at once into terraces of any required breadth. Let the 
steeps be covered with turf, to prevent the washing away of the 
soil, and arrange the planes into sub-divisions for culture. 

The shape or figure of a Garden is a point of little conse- 
quence, though the square, or any form approaching it, is the 
best and most convenient. The boundary lines may be of xny 
form, but the interior sub-divisions work to the best advantage 
in even lines. With regard to size, that, of course, must de- 



FORMATION OF A VEGETABLE OR KITCHEN GARDEN. 



9 



pend upon the number of the family, and may vary from a 
quarter to a whole acre. The walks may be from three to six 
feet wide, straight or serpentine — the former preferred, how- 
ever. Where fancy may dictate, the latter can be adopted, 
cropping the curves of the ground with flowers, fancy plants, 
or choice fruits. 

Rotation of Crops. — I admit that the same vegetable can 
be grown upon the same spot with success, year after year, but 
I also assert that a rotation of crops will be more produc- 
tive, which is of great importance in culinary gardening : there- 
fore never grow exhausting crops in succession. Substitute 
those alternately of as different roots and constitution as pos- 
sible. Keep these objects in view, and even with ordinary 
management we vouch for a crop. Assiduity in the destruc- 
tion of weeds, neatness and cleanliness, a constant stirring of 
the soil, digging deep and manuring freely, must be the con- 
stant companions of the gardener : making the business a 
source of pleasure, profit and advantage to himself, and an ob- 
ject of admiration to others. 

Or Manholes. — TTe may here premise that no garden will 
be worth its culture, unless well supplied with manure every 
year. The present day is a period of considerable agitation on 
this all-important subject. We have tried several of the new 
manures, some of them to our loss and (when we have departed 
from the stable yard) few to our advantage. In Europe great 
attention has been given to this subject, and many specifics 
recommended, which, when tried, have had frequently uncer- 
tain results, though in particular cases they have been crowned 
with success. In this country, however, our resources of do- 
mestic materials are abundant, and on every farm and garden 
much goes to waste. All weeds and useless vegetables, sweep- 
ings of walks, &c should be dug into the ground at once. 
The dung of domestic birds, compounded with fresh soil, is a 
groat renovator : but. if applied by itself, use it sparingly. 
Guano can only be safely applied in solution, one pound to five 
1* 



10 



BUIST'S FAMILY 1UTCHEN GARDENER. 



gallons of water — the liquid to be used when the vegetables 
are in a growing state. Gypsum is beneficial, but not of any 
duration. Poudrette is a very active manure, highly exciting 
to early crops. The safest and best of all manures are the 
combined deposits of the horse, the cow, and the pig ; these, 
thrown into a heap to ferment, saturating it with all the soap- 
suds and urine that can be collected, wiU form the best, the 
safest, and most permanent manure, not equalled by any or all 
of the nostrums of the age. It may be applied at the rate of 
from twenty to thirty tons per acre. This quantity is not too 
much, when a garden is regularly cultivated. It requires no 
adept in vegetable culture to take at least two crops a year 
from the ground. Lime is not genial to the growth of vegeta- 
bles ; its principal function as a manure appears to be, to dis- 
solve the organic matter in the soil and facilitate its decay. 
Soils of a sour, heavy nature, full of thready, undecomposed 
vegetable fibre, are greatly benefited by a dressing of air-slacked 
lime ; but on rich soils, well cultivated, its effects are unfavor- 
able to the growth of culinary vegetables. 



ON IMPLEMENTS. 

It is not our intention to go into a detail of all the useful 
articles connected with the culture of the garden, which would 
take us beyond our limits. Our object will be only to point 
out those most useful and essential to carry on the cultiva- 
tion of the soil. The materials of which they are composed are 
chiefly of iron and wood ; the best quality of both should be 
used, nothing purchased merely for its being cheap. The 
cheapest is the best and most durable to accomplish the end. 

The spade is a very common tool, and should be of steel, 
with a hickory or ash handle, having two rivets through its 
head. No. 2, of the manufactory, is the most convenient size. 
Some American spades are equal to any o T British manufacture 



ON IMPLEMENTS. 



11 




The Rake (Fig. 1) should be of 
the best wrought iron. witL teeth 
about 2£ inches long and 1£ apart. 
The head is of any size, from six to 
twenty inches. There are also rakes 
of malleable iron, and wooden rakes 
with steel teeth : the latter sort are 
very convenient for rough ground. 
The handle should be round, made 
of pine, or any other light wood, and 
from six to eight feet long. 

Beet Rake (Fig. 2). — This very use- 
ful implement is composed of hard 
wood, with steel teeth, obtusely pointed, 
about two inches wide, five inches Inng. 
and from nine to twelve inches apart. 
It is exceedingly useful for drawing drills in which to sow 
Beets, Carrots, Onions, and all small seeds or roots. In using 
it, strain the line, and draw with some strength; when three 
drills will be made at once, saving the labor of moving the 
line so frequently as when the work is accomplished by the hoe. 

Hoes are of many and varied de- 
scriptions, sizes and shapes. Fig. 3 
gives an idea of the most useful. 
They should be of the very best 
of steel, with rather strong, round 
handles, five feet long. They are in 
sizes from three to ten inches, 
nine inches are generally used. 

Pronged Hoes, Fig. 4, are very 
useful, indeed indispensable, for 
stirring the soil and destroying 
weeds. They are of steel or malic- 




Fig. 3. 

Those of three, five, seven 



and 



Fte. 4. 



able iron ; the latter generally used, though the former is 
ferable ; handles four and a half feet lonsr 



pre 



12 



BUIST's FAMILY KITCHEN G \RDENEE. 



The Dutch, or Scuffle Hoe, Fig. 
5, is -\ ery useful for cleaning 
walks and cutting weeds where 
the ground is of a light nature. 
It is also called a Thrust Hoe 
(being used by pushing from you) 
in contradistinction to the Draw 
Hoe. Fig. 3.. which is best adapted 
for all heavy work. 

The Reel and Line. Fig 6. The reel is of 
wood or iron ; the latter is preferable. It con- 
sists of two parts, the shank and the head. 
The head turns round on the shank and 
winds up tl 3 line or cord, which can be of 
any length. 

Fig. 6. 

The Trowel Fig. 7. is very 
useful for removing plants 
and lifting them with balls 
of earth for transplanting. 
It should b. • of the best iron Fig. 7. 

or steeL with a square socket into the handle, and from five to 
n4ne inches h :ig. exclusive of the handle. 

The Dibber is a short piece of round wood, generally made 
from an old spade or shovel handle, about one and a half feet 
long, obtusely pointed, frequently shod with iron on the one 
end. and conveniently formed for the hand on the other. It 
should be well made, as it is of very general use. and if iron- 
shod, will last half a century. 

Garden Watering-pot. — Of this utensil there are several 
sizes ; those that hold from three to four gallons are of the 
proper dimensions : they should be made of the best double 
tin. having two roses — the one pierced with holes the twen- 
tieth, the other the fortieth part of an inch. Keep them well 
painted, and when r :>t in use. the mouth downwards. 






ON IMPLEMENTS. 



13 



The Grass-edging Iron or Knife, 
Fig. 8 3 is for cutting the turf 
of grass borders or walks. It |!P 
should be of the very best steel J 
with a round, strong handle, 
about three and a half feet \ 
long. 




Garden Hook. Fig. 9. for 
dressing hedges, made of the 
very best steel, having a 1 
handle of an oval form, of 
strong wood. 3£ feet long. 




Fig 9. 



and of a small size, that the hand may conveniently grasp it 




Fig. 10. 

Garden Shears. Fig. 10, are of various sizes, from six to 
twelve inch blades, and used for cutting edgings of Box, clip- 
ping hedges, and many other purposes. They are of great 
variety and quality. The seven and nine-inch sizes are most 
convenient 



14 



buist's family kitchen gardener. 



Ladies' Shears, Fig. 1 1 . 
These are of the very best 
material, neatly made, for 
the use of ladies who take 
a delight in gardening 
operations. 




Fig. 12. 



Grass-edging Shears, Fig. 12. These are made expressly 
for cutting grass-edgings, and have a wheel that rests on the 
walk while the shears trim off the grass. It is a very con- 
venient and expeditious implement. 

Hand- Glass, Fig. 1 3. These are made 
of red cedar, or cast iron. The latter is 
most neat and durable. It consists of 
two parts, the bottom and top. A use- 
ful utensil for growing seeds of early Cel- 
ery, Tomato, Egg-plant, or any other ar- "— ^'^^S^-^^' 
tide of early culture : also well adapted Fig. 13. 

for covering Cauliflower plants where the winters are not very 
severe. When air is to be given to the plants enclosed, it is 
done by lifting up the top and replacing it diagonally ; by this 
means air is freely admitted, ix glass case may be made of 
any height with these hand-glasses, by merely placing the 
bottom frames one upon the other. Those we use are of cast 
iron, and cost $3.50 each. 




Fig. il. 




ON IMPLEMENTS. 



15 




A Sunk Pit. Fig. 14. is in 
part in the earth and partly 
above it. by forming sides of 
brick, stone, locust, chestnut, 
or cedar boards. On these, 
glass frames are sometimes Fig. 14. 

placed, and at other times only mats or shutters. Such pits 
answer for the preservation of vegetables, such as Endive. Cel- 
ery. Lettuce. Cauliflower. Broccoli. <kc. Air is given on all oc- 
casions when it can be done with safety, by propping up the 
sash or shutters. 

The Wailed Pit, Fig. 
15. is also partly sunk 
in the ground and part- 
ly out. The walls are 
formed of brick or 
stone, finished with a 
wooden or stone cop- 
ing, the width of the Fig. 15. 
wall, into which cross rafters are mortised (but moveable) to 
support the sashes. Our object in having them moveable is 
to admit of their being raised as the growth of Cauliflower? 
or any other plants require. This is readily done by having 
a strong two-inch plank made to fit the back and front of the 
pit. and to rest on the coping : the rafters to rest on these 
planks either by mortising holes for their reception, or to have 
them to rest on clets. This is a great convenience, and 
overcomes the difficulty every grower feels when his Cauli- 
flowers touch the glass. 

There is no appendage to the garden of greater utility than 
this pit. It is two feet under ground, one foot above it in front, 
and two feet above it at the back, and six or seven feet wide in 
the clear. It is an excellent winter apartment for plants when 
covered with sash and mats. Wh m filled with very rich earth 
it grows fine Cauliflowers, that wil be in use from March to 




16 



buist's family xn ; hex gardener. 



May. If rilled with war in manure early in February, it will 

grow Cucumbers that will be in use from April to July, or 
grow Eadishes and small sallading in quantity. In summer 
the sashes can be used for growing fine varieties of G-rape*. 
See our article on Fruits. 

Sash Light. Fig. 16. Made of yellow or the r jzz^z^~z •. 
best seasoned white pine. H to '2 inches thick. ' j 

The sash should be 3 feet 5 inches wide, and — t 

6 or more feet long : the glass we prefer is 6 j 

by 6. or 6 by 5. and of the best quality. The Fig. 16. 
wood must have two coats of oil paint before glazing, and at 
least one coat afterwards All the glass must be bedded in 
soft putty : the laps of the glass should not exceed half an inch : 
one-fourth of an inch, if well done, is quite sufficient. A sash 
well painted and protected when not in use. will last from 
thirty to forty years. The smaller the panes of glass the less 
will be the damage from breakage. 

The Common Hot-Bod Frame is a box of wood, bottomless, 
of any length or breadth to suit the object in view, but generally 
six feet wide and from -nx to sixteen feet long, highest at the 
side to be placed to the north, and subdivided by cross-bars, and 
each division covered by a glazed sash. The component parts 
of the above frame, instead of being mortised into one another, 
should be fastened with hooks and staples, or keyed iron bolts. 

h easily admit of their being taken asunder and put under 
cover when they are not wanted for use. I have about a hun- 
dred sashes that can be taken apart and stowed away, or erected 
in one day. 

Vegetable or Kitchen Garden, with a select as soil me nt of Fruit 
. Fig. 17. This arrangement affords great facilities 
for croping the ground and a rotation of crops. It also con- 
fines the trees to one place, for the purpose of giving a partial 
shade to the main walk in summer, without injuring any of th<3 
vegetables. This plan is decidedly preferable to the mode ot 
distributing tl e trees over the garden 



fN .MPLEMENTS. 



15 













T— 




\ i r i | 
| 1 1 I 

I i i 

ill 
||i 

! I i i ! 




1 
! 

1 

1 

I 

I 






■* -*s "^ST^ * * 
% -*i * Tb ■» 


^ * .* 







■f i# ^ ^ 
* * ^ 






! ! ^ ' 









Fig. 17. 

a- a — Mam 2ntrance. 
b b — Grape-vine arbor. 

c c — A border ten or twelve feet wide all round the garden, for tnc 
smaller and finer sorts of vegetables. 

d d — Compartments for vegetables in quantity, divided by alleys. 

e e — Row of choice Pear trees on each side of the walk, affording shade. 

/ /—Rows of dwarf trees, either Plum, GLuinee, Peach on the Plum 
stock, Apricots, or dwarf Pears. 

g g — Large compartments, surrounded by Currant and Raspoerry 
bushes, for early Corn, early Potatoes, or any vegetable of which a large 
quantity is grown. If situation will admit of it, the pits or frames can 
be in these quarter? portioned off by a low hedge. 



18 



BITIST'S FAMILY KITCHEN' GARDENER. 



GARDEN SEEDS FOR HALF AN ACRE. 

The following seeds, with judicious management, will fully 
crop a garden of half an acre, which will supply a moderate 
sized family with vegetables throughout the year. Vegetable 
seeds, where carefully grown in this country, are (with a few 
exceptions) preferable to those imported ; but the utter care- 
lessness manifested by many in keeping them apart when 
growing, is not to be recommended. 



1 oz. Asparagus. 

3 qts. Beans, of sorts. 

4 oz. Beet, of sorts. 
| oz. Broccoli. 

i oz. Cauliflower. 

4 oz. Cabbage, of sorts. 

i oz. Celery. 

8 oz. Cress. 

| oz. Cucumber. 

1 oz. Carrot. 

1 qt. Early Corn. 

1 pkt. Egg Plant. 

% oz. Endive. 

i oz. Leek. 

1 qt. Lima Beans. 

1 oz. Lettuce, of sorts. 



Mustard. 
Melons. 
Okra. 

Onions, sorts. 
1 pap. Parsley. 
1 oz. Parsneps. 
1 pap. Peppers. 
i oz. Pumpkin. 
8 qts. Ptas. 
8 oz. Radish. 
Salsafy. 
Squash. 
Spinage. 

1 pap. Tomatoes. 

2 oz. Turnip. 

6 pap. Pot and Sweet Herbs 



4 oz. 

i oz. 

1 oz. 

2 oz. 



i oz. 
i oz 

8 oz. 



Cost about $10. 



Seeds should always be kept in bags, in a dry, airy situa- 
tion. Wall closets and cellars are objectionable, from their 
dampness. All seeds will keep two. and many from three to 
six years. 



AUnCHOKE. 



19 



ARTICHOKE. 

Cy'nara Scolymus — Artichaut^ Fr. — Artischoke, Ger. 

The Artichoke is principally cultivated in the gardens of 
the French, by whom it is considered more as a luxury than a 
profitable esculent. There are two varieties, the Globe and 
the Green ; the former is so called from its globular head, of 
a dull, purplish tint. The scales are turned in at the top 
more than the other variety, and it is preferred, as the scales, 
or edible parts, are thicker and possess most flavor. The 
Green is more hardy and prolific, the scales are more open, 
and the plant better adapted for culture in cold climates 
than the former. 

The heads in their immature state, and before their blue, 
thistle-like flowers open, are cut and boiled in salt and water ; 
the edible part is merely the fleshy substance on the bottom 
of the scales, which, to make palatable, has to be dipped in a 
nicely prepared sauce of butter and spices. They are fre- 
quently, however, eaten as a salad in a raw state. 

Culture. — It is propagated from seeds, or by division of 
the young suckers that arise from the roots of the old plants 
in Spring. They are fit to slip or cut off after they have made 
a few roots and leaves. Plant them three feet apart each 
way, in soil well-prepared by digging and manuring ; water 
each plant freely, and occasionally if the weather continues dry, 
till they have taken root : keep constantly stirring the soil, 
and destroying the weeds. On the approach of winter remove 
all decayed leaves — although it appears a very strong plant, yet 
north of Virginia it requires more or less protection, and may 
be covered with the earth taken from between the rows, and 
drawn well up round the roots. In very severe seasons, an 
additional covering of dry litter or branches is advisable. In 
Spring remove all the litter, level down the soil, and examine 



20 



BUIST'S FAMILY MITCHEN GARDENER. 



the stools. Let those of the strongest grow to produce heads, 
the rest are removed by a pressure of the thumb or a cut with 
the knife. Dig the whole ground level, using, yearly plenty 
of good rotten manure. A bed will continue productive for 
seven or more years. If the heads are not wanted for use or 
seed, they should be destroyed from the stem, which promotes 
the strength and vitality of the plant. Seed sown early in Spring, 
in drills, eighteen inches apart and two inches deep, will produce 
good plants the first season, and even be more permanent than 
those procured from offsets. Protect them carefully the first 
winter ; transplant early in Spring, as above directed, for offsets. 
They will produce a few heads the following year, and there- 
after a regular crop. If quality is preferred to quantity, the 
head that surmounts the stem only should be allowed to grow ; 
all the lateral ones growing on the same stalk should be re- 
moved in their young state. 



ASPARAGUS. 

Asparagus officinalis — Asperge, Fr. — Spargel, Ger. 

This universal vegetable is supposed to be a native of Great 
Britain, where it is found on banks of sandy soil contiguous 
to the sea, growing luxuriantly under the salt breezes. Culti- 
vators have found that salt brine, or a thin covering of salt 
thrown over the beds in the Pall, before they have their final 
dressing, proves very beneficial to its growth. Although it is not 
considered a very nutricious vegetable, yet it occupies a con- 
siderable proportion of every garden, and is extensively culti- 
vated for our markets — some growers having eight or ten acres 
under culture, and I have no doubt that in a very few years it 
will be increased ten-fold. 

Propagation. — This is accomplished only by seeds. When a 
new bed is formed, in order to save time, two or three-year old 
plants may be procured from Nurserymen or Gardeners, at a 
very low rate. There are several varieties of Asparagus named 



ASPAP.AGtS. 



in catalogues, but there is a great similarity among them, and 
we will class them into two only, the Green-top and the Purple- 
top. The former is round in the top and of a bright green co- 
lor. The latter of a purple reddish-green color, very close 
headed, and is the sort generally cultivated. There is another 
supposed variety called the Giant, which is greatly extolled by 
Seedsmen on account of its size, but I believe the principal se- 
cret lies in the quality of the soil and the superiority of cul- 
ture. Sow the seed early in Spring, (about a pound will be sufii- 
cient for a family), thinly, in drills, one and a-half to two inches 
deep, and eighteen inches from row to row — in good. rich, sandy, 
loamy soil, well manured and prepared. Strong one-year old 
plants are much better for transplanting than those of even three 
years 1 old. when the growth has been indifferent. Rake the 
ground even, and keep it free from weeds by frequent hoeing. 
About the first of the following Xovember. some stable litter 
should be spread over the ground, to keep the young roots 
from frost. 

Culture. — The best ground for Asparagus is a light, sandy 
loam, at least two feet deep. Before planting it should be dug 
very deep or trenched in the way we have recommended, burying 
in plenty of manure, as no more can be supplied after the beds 
are planted (unless by surface dressings). The ground can 
scarcely be too rich, for the sweetness and tenderness of the 
shoots depend on the rapidity of the growth, which is greatly 
promoted by the richness of the soil. A plot of ground twenty 
feet wide and from forty to fifty feet long will be suitable for a 
moderate-sized family Over it sow from fifty to one hundred 
pounds of salt, incorporating it with the soil to the depth of four 
or five inches. The ground having been well prepared and pro- 
perly leveled, divide it off into beds four feet wide, with alleys of 
two feet between them. The work should all be done in fine wea- 
ther, about the end of March. Drive in a strong stake at each 
corner, take up the plants carefully from the seed-rows with a 
fork, and expose them to the ah as little as possible, keeping 



22 



BUST'S FAMILY KITCHEN GARDENER. 



thein covered during the^inie of planting, and not allowing the 
roots to get dry. Stretch a line lengthwise along the bed. nine 
inches from the edge, an 1 with a spade cut a small furrow, six 
inches deep. Haying the plants ready, set a row along the trench, 
nine inches apart, with the crown of the roots two inches below 
the surface, drawing a little earth upon them to fix them as 
placed. Having finished a row. cover them directly with the 
earth that has been thrown out of the furrow, raking it regularly 
and to an equal depth over the crown of the plants, Proceed 
to open another furrow a foot from the first : plant and finish it 
as above, when you will have four rows to each bed. After all is 
planted, rake the beds lengthwise, drawing off all stones and rub- 
bish ; dress the surface neatly and evenly. Let the edges be 
lined out in exact order, allowing two feet to each alley. As 
these alleys will be of little service the first season, and no waste 
ground should ever be seen in a garden, dig them up and plant 
a row of cabbage in each. Nothing further will be required 
during the Summer than to destroy all weeds. The following 
Winter cover them to the depth of three or four inches with rotten 
manure, to keep the crowns from sun and frost : if. in the Spring, 
the earth is found to have settled in any part, the deficiency 
must be made up with more mould. It is a common practice 
to sow Radishes upon the beds, but it is an injurious one. as it 
robs the ground of a great portion of its nutriment, so essen- 
tial to their luxuriant growth. The plants are permitted the 
two first years to run up to stalks, that strong crowns may be 
formed at their base for the future crop. 

After the third year, the beds will require the following 
mode of treatment. From the middle of October to the end 
of November give them their winter dressing, which consists 
in cutting down the stalks close to the ground and clearing the 
beds from weeds : drawing them off at the same time with a 
rake into the alleys, to be buried or taken to the compost 
heap to be mixed up with other litter and again returned to the 
soil. Cover the whole of the bed with two or three inche-s of raa< 



ASPARAGUS. 



23 



nure : the alleys must be dug spade deep, at the same time spread- 
ing some soil over the manure on the beds, and leveling the whole 
evenly. It may be supposed that the annual dressing in this 
way will in a few years considerably raise the beds ; but by the 
Spring forking and raking, together with the hoeing and dress- 
ing during Summer, a considerable portion of the earth is being 
continually drawn again into the alleys. 

As soon as the frost is fairly out of the ground in the Spring, 
loosen the surface of the beds with a fork, introducing it three 
or four inches into the soil, turning up the earth with care not 
to wound the crown of the roots. Then make the surface of 
the beds even and equal, drawing off the rough earth, stones 
&c. into the alleys : finish by stretching a line along the edge 
of the beds, and trim them neatly off with the spade. Stirring 
the bed in this manner enables the shoots to rise in free 
growth : admits the air. rain, and sunshine into the ground, 
and encourages the roots to produce buds of a strong size. A 
full crop may be expected the fourth season after planting. 
The proper method of cutting them is to scrape a little of the 
earth away from each shoot : then, with a sharp-pointed, long- 
bladed knife, cut off the shoot slantingly, about three inches 
under the surface, taking care not to wound the younger buds 
that are advancing below in different stages of growth. It is 
in the best state for cutting when it is four inches above ground, 
and while the top remains close and round. The cutting 
should never extend beyond the middle of June. 

Asparagus beds, with good culture, will continue to give 
bountiful crops for twelve or fifteen years. It is frequently 
forced on dung hot-beds, and in the hands of the initiated, with 
great success : but to go into the general minutiae of forcing 
vegetables, would take us entirely beyond our limits : a few 
hints however, will give an idea of the operation. Prepare a 
hot-bed of two lights, in the way we have directed for cucum- 
bers, about two feet high at back and twenty inches in front 
Cover it with four inches of soil : lay thereon roots that are at 



24 buist's family kitchen gardener. 

least four years old : cover them three inches with the same 
soil, and give the whole a copious watering. Admit air at the 
. back by tilting the sash daily, in sunshine. In two weeks, or 
three at most, you may expect to be able to cut for the table. 
A bed of this sort will produce "daily, or at least every two 
days, a dish for the table, and continue in bearing three or four 
weeks. The process may be carried to the extent of the de- 
mand. Where properly managed, it will fully compensate 
either as a luxury or a marketable article. 



BASIL. 

O'cymum Basilicum. — Basilic, Fr. — Basilikum, Grer. 

There are two sorts of Basil, the sweet or large leaved, 
Ocymum Basilicum ; and the small leaved or bush Basil, Ocy- 
mum minimum. The qualities of both are the same, but the 
former is principally used for culinary purposes. They are 
both annuals ; the leaves or tops are the parts gathered for 
use. The French are very partial to the flavor of this plant ; 
its leaves enter into the composition of many of their soups 
and sauces ; and, on account of their strong flavor of cloves, 
are used in all highly-seasoned dishes, and even introduced 
into salads. 

Culture. — The seeds should be sown on rich, light ground, 
about the middle of April, or it may be grown in a gentle hot- 
bed with early salad, and transplanted to the open ground 
about the end of the month, in rows one foot apart and six 
inches from plant to plant. It makes a very good edging for 
some of the vegetable quarters. It is a tender plant and very 
easily injured by the early frosts of autumn, previous to which 
they should be pulled up by the roots, tied in small bunches, 
and hung up in an airy room or loft to dry. They will retain 
a great portion of their aron atic qualities for Winter use. 



BEANS. 



25 



BEANS. 

Phaseolus vulgaris. — Haricot, Fr. — Schminkbohne, Ger. 

This vegetable is one of the standards of the garden for 
summer culture. It is an every-day dish for the table. The 
numerous forms in which it can be served up ; the rich, buttery 
flavor of some of the varieties ; the crisp, juicy character of 
others, renders at least some of the family palatable to the 
most fastidious. 

The following are Bush-Beans, or Snaji- Shorts, and their 
characteristic of excellence is their breaking crisply. If tough, 
they are unfit for cooking. They are arranged in the rotation 
of their coming to maturity. Some growers prefer one va- 
riety only, while others prefer several sorts. Our remarks 
are all made with the articles under our culture, and notes 
taken on the spot. We pay no regard to the hacknied quota- 
tions handed down from one writer to another. 

Early Mohawk. — A variety that resists more frost, as an 
early crop, than any other. It is an excellent bearer, pods 
long : beans, when ripe, large, oval, dark speckled. Sown 13th 
May, fit for the table June 16th. 

Early Six- Weeks. — Not so hardy as the former, but equally 
early. It is a light-colored Bean. 

Early Valentine. — The Valentine Beans are extensively 
cultivated in this vicinity for the market. They are the sorts 
that have round pods, and continue on the plant a long period 
for culinary purposes. A great bearer, of a salmon color, 
with pink spots. Sown 13th May, fit for the table June 20th. 

Yellow Six-Weeks. — In growth and maturity very similar 
to the former, though three days later. 

Late Valentine, or Refugee.— K very excellent variety, very 
similar in appearance to the Early Valentine when green 
2 



26 



BUIST ? S FAMILY KITCHEN GARDENER. 



though a stronger grower. Color dark-brown, speckled. Sown 
1 3th May, fit for use June 25th. 

Black Valentine is a most excellent variety, a great bearer, 
and of delicate flavor. Ripens a few days later than the for- 
mer. 

Royal White- Kidney. — The best late variety ; has long pods, 
richly flavored, and for family use is indispensable, not only in 
its green state, but for Winter use. As a vegetable it is prefer- 
able to any other. Sown 13th May, fit for the table July 1st 

The above sorts may be sown at any time from the 1 Oth of 
April to the 25th of August. The first sowing in Spring is 
frequently cut off with frost, though we have seen the Valentine 
sorts all killed, while the Mohawk stood uninjured. It should 
therefore always be adopted for the earliest sowing. A few 
rows of each sort sown every two weeks will keep a succession 
for the table from the first of June till the middle of October, 
As this crop does not long occupy the ground, it can frequently 
be sown between rows of Corn, ridges of Celery, or Drumhead 
Cabbage when they are first planted. 

Culture. — Any good, light, rich soil will grow this Bean in 
perfection. Draw drills with the hoe two and a half inches 
deep, and from one foot to eighteen inches from row to row ; drop 
the beans regularly therein, about two inches apart ; cover up 
carefully and expeditiously : give frequent and deep hoeings to 
keep open the soil. As soon as the crop is three inches high, 
draw the earth to their stems. When they begin to show 
their flower bud, draw a few inches more, which is termed by 
gardeners, earthing up. 

Seed. — Where seed is wished to be saved, the sorts must 
be grown apart, as far as practicable, for they are very suscep* 
tible of mixture, if even within fifty yards of each other 



BEANS. 



27 



Running or Pole Beans {Haricot a rames, Fr. ; Stangen 
bohue, Ger.) are sorts in great esteem ; especially the Lima, 
of which there are two varieties, the White and Green. 
Both are excellent in flavor. The latter has the advantage of 
size, and the former of producing a more certain and uniform 
crop. It is the variety most extensively cultivated for the 
Philadelphia market, covering an extent of over two hundred 
acres in the immediate vicinity of the city. 

Culture. — They are planted in the last week of April, or 
llrst week of May, in hills very similar to Indian Corn, and 
about the same distance apart. In fact, those who can plant 
Corn, can plant Lima Beans : though strangers to this luscious 
vegetable often make very curious mistakes in its culture, some 
drawing drills and sowing them therein, others digging pits 
and burying the delicate seed (which is impatient of cold or 
moisture) six or eight inches deep ; the results from both of 
which operations must be nearly a total failure. Some sprout 
these beans in a hot-bed, and transplant them into the hills 
in which they are to grow ; but very little, if any time, is 
gained by the trouble. A hill of good, rich earth, raised a few 
inches above the level, and five or six beans put two inches 
deep therein, will be found the safest and surest. If three 
grow, it is enough ; if not, plant over again. They will grow 
twenty feet ; but rods of twelve feet, placed two feet in the 
ground at the time the hill is made, will support them. Cold 
damp weather frequently destroys the first and even the sec- 
ond planting. 

Carolina or Sewee Bean, has all the habits of the Lima, 
though not so large. It is more hardy, and produces as pro- 
fusely, but has not so much of the rich, buttery flavor. 

Dutch- Case Knife is an excellent pole Bean, producing a 
good crop, of fine flavor, and much earlier for the table than 
either the Lima or Carolina. It can be used either in or with- 
out the pod ; it is also well adapted for Winter use 



28 



buist's family kitchen gardener. 



Cranberry, both the Red and White are much cultivated, 
though we decidedly prefer the latter. They are of the easi- 
est culture : the corn-field can be used, if the garden does not 
suffice. In fact, we see no reason why every farmer should 
not have a few Beans, even of the Lima, on every corn-hill. 
The stalks would support the vines ; the produce would bring 
four dollars per bushel : or even for family use, they would be 
profitable for an every-day vegetable the whole Winter ; they 
are a certain crop, even preferable to the Potato, more nutri- 
tive, while the latter is becoming a precarious crop, and of an 
indifferent quality. 

Scarlet Runners require to be earlier planted than the Lima 
Bean, that they may be well advanced in growth before the hot 
weather begins, which stunts their growth and prevents their 
blooming. They must be poled in the same way. The blos- 
soms are red, hence their name. 

Vicia Fab a — Feve de Marais of the French, or "Windsor 
Bean of the English — are of trifling value for this climate, com- 
pared with the sorts previously described. However, in cool 
climates, on rich loamy soil, they will, if planted early, make 
a return for the use of the ground, and prove a variety for the 
table. The Windsor and early 'Long Pod are the best vari- 
eties. Plant them in drills eighteen inches asunder, and two 
inches apart in the row. 



BEET. 

Beta vulgaris. — Beterave. Fr. — Rot he Rube. Grer. 

The Beet is a native of the sea-coast of the south of Europe. 
It takes its name from the shape of its seed-vessel, which, when 
it swells with the seed, has the form of the letter beta (/?) of the 
Greek alphabet. 

There are several varieties of the Beet in cultivation for cul- 
inary purposes, but the most essential sorts are confined to 
the Long Blood and Turnip Rooted 



BEET. 



29 



The Turnip Rooted is the earliest variety, and takes its name 
from the form of the root. Its quality is decided by the rich- 
ness of color and closeness of the grain. 

Long Blood is the sort run upon for a general crop, to use dur- 
ing Winter and Spring It often grows twelve or fourteen inches 
long and four or five inches thick. Beet is used and prepared 
for the table in a great variety of ways. It is boiled and sliced, 
and eaten cold with vinegar ; it is sliced in salads, both as an 
eatable and a garnish ; it also makes a beautiful and agreeable 
pickle. The root itself, if eaten alone, affords but little nourish- 
ment, though quite indispensable on a table of any pretensions. 

White Beet is esteemed only for its stalks, or the mid-rib of 
the leaves, which, being divested of the leafy part, improves 
the flavor of soups ; or if peeled and stewed, it can be eaten 
like Asparagus. 

Radish-rooted Beet is a new variety, of a very dark blood-red 
color ; in shape very similar to the long scarlet Radish, though 
much larger. 

Whyte's New Blood-Beet is an improvement in richness of 
color on the old Long Beet. 

London Blood-Beet is a new variety, with something more 
than a name. We are as particular at our table in discuss- 
ing the qualities of vegetables as others are in the cut or the 
joint, or .the peculiar flavors of Port or Madeira, and we feel 
assured that this variety of the Beet is more delicate in flavor, 
more brilliant in color, and of as good a form as any other sort. 

Silver or Sea-Kale Beet very much resembles the White Beet, 
though the ribs of the leaves are larger, and, when cooked, has 
much of the flavor of sea-kale. There are several other sorts 
which come more under the notice of the agriculturist, such 
as Sugar Beet, Mangel- Wurtzel, &c. 

Cultuhe. — Little art is requisite for the culture of this vege- 
table. One grand essential for an early crop is to dig deep 
and manure well. Sow as soon as the soil will admit of work- 



30 



Bt'ISrS FAMILY KITCHEN GARDENER. 



ing, after the frost is out of the ground : draw drills half an 
inch deep and eighteen inches apart : drop the seeds therein 
about three inches apart, cover them lightly and rake finely : 
if the ground be dry. tread or roll them firmly. Sow a light 
sprinkling of early Radish seed before raking. They will be 
fit for pulling before the Beets are ready for thinning, which 
will be in four or five weeks. As soon as the Beets have made 
a few leaves, thin them out to six inches apart, allowing the 
Strongest plants to remain. For a full Winter crop, sow the Long 
Blood or London Beet at any time from the 20th of May 
till the 20th of June. These will keep better and be more 
tender for Winter use than those sown earlier, On the ap- 
proach of frost, about the end of October, take up the roots : 
cut the leaves off within two inches of the crown, and put the 
roots away in a dry cellar, or pack them in barrels with dry 
sand, and keep from severe frost. Plant out early in Spring 
a few of the best roots for seed : avoid those of a rough or 
fibrous nature. 



BORECOLE. 

Brdssica oleracea. var. — Chozt vert. Fr. — 'Grime Kohl. Ger. 

Borecole, German Greens, or Scotch Kale, is a very delicate 
vegetable. It is essential to its perfection that it be fully 
acted upon by frost before it is cut for the kitchen. There 
are several varieties of it. The parts used are the top or crown 
of the plant, with any of the side sprouts. It boils well, and is 
tender and sweet. The tall and dwarf curly sorts are best 
adapted for garden culture. Sow the seed in April, along with 
other Cabbage, which transplant and treat in the same manner 



BROCCOLI. 



3! 



BROCCOLI. 

Brdssica olerdcea, var. — Broccoli, Fr. — Italianische Kohl, Ger. 

Broccoli is a variety of the Cabbage closely related to the 
Cauliflower, though not so delicate in flavor as that vegetable. 
It is supposed to have come originally from the island of Cy- 
press, and was cultivated nearly two hundred years ago. In mild 
climates it is extensively used from November to March, the 
various early and late sorts coming to maturity in the very 
middle of Winter. In this latitude the culture L confined to 
Grange's Early White and the* Early Purple Cape. In tnoir 
growth, habit, and eatable parts, they resemble Cauliflower, all of 
them forming roundish heads in the centre of tieir leaves, 
composed entirely of a compact collection of numerous buds 
or tender advancing shoots. 

Grange's Early produces large, fine, white, compact heads, 
of a conical shape. The leaves cover the heads and afford pro- 
tection in frosty weather. This sort is so much like Cauli- 
flower that those who ought to be judges have pronounced it 
such, though the leaves and flavor are entirely different. For a 
good crop, sow the seed early in April. 

Early Purple Co.pe also produces large sized heads, of a 
reddish brown color : when genuine, very close and compact. 
It is rather earlier than the former, and more hardy. 

The Dwarf Tartarian, White Malta, and Late White are 
fine sorts for a mild climate. They will be in use the whole Win- 
ter. Sow the seeds in J une, and transplant in July, in very 
rich sandy loam. 

Culture. — The seeds should be sown in April and May, in 
rich soil, on an open exposure, where the plants grow much 
stronger than near trees or fences. Sow the seeds tolerably 
thick on the surface ; if dry, tramp them down and rake in 
lightly ; if drought continues, give the beds a few waterings 



32 



buist's family kitchen gardener. 



till the plants appear, which will be in two weeks. Transplant 
in June or July, when the weather is moist, in rows two feet 
apart and twenty inches in the row. If the weather is dry when 
planted, give them water every other day till they begin to 
grow. Their further culture is to keep them clear of weeds by 
hoeing and stiring the ground ; when they have advanced in 
growth, draw some earth to their stems, which greatly promotes 
their luxuriance. 

They commence heading in October and continue till de- 
stroyed by severe frost. The heads should be cut while they 
remain close, and before they assume a seedy-like appearance. 

In this, and more northern latitudes, it is necessary to put 
these plants into a shed or cellar, to have them during Winter. 
Lift them carefully before severe frost, and plant them in earth. 
They will head well when thus treated, but south of Virginia 
this vegetable may be had in perfection without the least trou- 
ble, excepting the culture. The seed is all imported from 
Europe. 



BRUSSELS SPROUTS. 

Brdssica oleracea. var. — Ohou- de Bruxelles, 'Er.—Sprossen, 
Xohl Ger. 

This variety of the Cabbage is supposed to have originated 
from the Savoy. It is a celebrated vegetable in Europe, espe- 
cially near Bruxelles and other large towns in Flanders, where, 
from October to April, it is an every-day dish on the table of 
both the rich and the poor. Till recently very little attention 
has been given to it in this country. 

Culture. — Sow the seed in April, and transplant in June, 
or July, in the same manner as Broccoli. The leaves of the 
plant are similar to the Savoy, crowning a stem about two feet 
high, from which grow out numerous little cabbages of from 



BURNET. 



38 



one to two inches in diameter. After the sprouts have been 
frosted (which is necessary to their perfection) they may be 
gathered. Immerse them in clear water for an hour, and cleanse 
them from dust and insects ; then boil them quickly for about 
twenty minutes, using plenty of water. When soft, take them 
up and drain them well. They are then to be put into a stew- 
pan with cream, or with a little butter thickened with flour, 
and seasoned to taste, stirring them thoroughly. They may 
be served up to table with tomato sauce, which greatly height- 
ens their flavor : or seasoned with pepper and salt, and eaten 
with any sort of meat. As this vegetable is comparatively 
little known, I have made these observations with a view of 
encouraging its culture. Plants for seed should have their 
tops cut off, and the little cabbages allowed to shoot, from which 
the seed is more perfect. It will keep fresh and sound in a 
dry place three years, but when grown for that object should 
not be near any other sort of Cabbage. 



BURNET. 

Poterium Sanguisorba — Petite Pimprenelle, Fr. — Pimper- 
nelle, Ger. 

Burnet is a hardy perennial plant. The parts made use of 
are the young leaves, which are put into salads, and by the 
French very frequently into soups, to which it gives a pleasant 
and warm taste. 

Culture. — Seed may be sown early in Spring, in a row, 
where they are to remain. Twenty plants will be sufficient 
for any family. They are also propagated by dividing the 
roots, and as the young luxuriant leaves are preferable, the 
plants should be manured every year, and renewed every three 
or four years. 



buist's family kitchen gardener. 



CABBAGE. 

JBrdssica ohrdcea^ var. — Chou pomme, Fr. — Weiss Kopf- 
kohL Ger, 

The Cabbage is one of the most ancient and esteemed vege- 
tables, and as an esculent it stands in the highest estimation. 
The name is applied to the firm head or ball that is formed by 
the leaves folding close over each other. Like all other culti- 
vated plants, the Cabbage has undergone so many changes and 
assumed so many varieties that it is not easy to give a descrip- 
tion that will apply to the whole. Without exaggeration, 
many of the sorts are as far superior to others in flavor as 
cream is to sour milk, yet we continue to grow, year after year, 
the same varieties ; some of which are so rank and strong that 
they are only fit for the cattle-yard or cow-shed, to the neglect 
of others which are not only tender and delicious to the taste, 
but are truly agreeable to the olfactory organs. "The principal 
varieties in cultivation are the following. 

Early York. — This is a valuable early variety, which has been 
cultivated upwards of one hundred years. Its earliness, and 
delicate taste and flavor, keeps it in estimation. The heads are 
small, round, slightly heart-shaped, and very firm. From its very 
dwarf growth, a great many can be planted in a small space. 
Rows one foot apart, and eight inches from plant to plant. 

Large York. A variety of the former, of larger growth, and 
fully two weeks later. It is the variety cultivated extensively 
for the markets about Philadelphia, 

Late York is another variety, improved in size, but infe- 
rior in flavor, and is, under the same culture, three weeks later 
than the Early York. 

Early Nonpareil is one of the best sorts in cultivation. 
It heads freely, and is of a good size, and very delicate flavor. 

Early Vanack is another sweet and delicately flavored vari 



cabbage. 



35 



et v : in shape very similar to the Early York, though larger, and 
a little later. The flavor is equal, if not superior to that uni- 
versally esteemed sort. 

Early Baiter sea is a roundish, oval-headed variety. It 
is most excellent while young, before it becomes hard, and 
continues a considerable time in use. It is well adapted for 
cottage culture. 

Early Sugar-Loaf is a very distinct sort. The heads are 
perfectly conical, the leaves erect and spoon-shaped. The heads 
are not so firm as those already noticed, but. unless for variety, 
it is not desirable, as the hot weather destroys its quality. 

Early Dutch is a variety that connects the more early sorts 
with the Drumhead. Spring-sown seed will be fit to cut in 
August and September, and for the table is the only desirable 
variety of the late sorts. 

Flat Dutch, or Drumhead. — Hundreds of acres of this Cab- 
bage are cultivated in this vicinity for city use and shipping 
to southern ports. They are sold at about $2.50 per 100. It 
is a large spreading Cabbage, generally very broad and fiat at 
the top ; of a close and firm nature. It comes to perfection 
about the middle of September, and will continue till January. 
Seed sown in May will come into use in October and continue 
till February. 

Bergen is also a Drumhead variety, larger and coarser than 
the former. It is most eligible for feeding cattle or making 
sauer kraut. 

Savoy Cabbage. — There are four varieties of this Cabbage, 
but the Curled and Drumhead will suffice for our purpose. The 
Curled Savoy is a delightful Winter vegetable, improved in 
flavor by a considerable frost. It does not head firm, but the 
whole of the head is fit for the kitchen. Drumhead Savoy 
grows to a large size, nearly round, and a little flattened at 
the top. It is the principal scrt for the market ; like large 
cabbages it fills the eye, but the Curl 3d is the best for family 
use : it pleases the taste. 



36 



BUI ST S FAMILY KITCHEN GARDENER. 



Red Dutch, — This sort is esteemed principally as a choice 
pickle, and is sometimes sliced in salad. In its raw state it 
is of middle size, heart-shaped, heading Yc d and the 

whole of a red, purplish color. The darker the 
more thick and fleshy the leaves, without any white in the 
ribs and veins, the more valuable. It is in perfection from 
October till Christmas. 

All these sorts of Cabbage are biennial, being raised from 
seed and attaining perfection the first year : and in the second 
shooting up the stalk, to flower and- seed, after which they 
wholly perish. 

To save for Seed. — Onthe approach of Winter bury the 
roots and stems with a part of the Cabbage, slantingly, in the 
ground, and in severe weather cover the heads lightly with 
straw. "When Spring comes uncover them. and. as the stems 
grow, tie them up to prevent their being destroyed by the 
wind. The seed will ripen in June or July, Clean it. and 
put away in a dry place for use. If two varieties of the Bras- 
sica tribe are saved for seed in the same year, they should be 
in the extreme parts of the garden, or they will undoubtedly 
mix and degenerate, 

Culture. — Fortunately the Cabbage can be cultivated by 
the most simple and easy means. It grows in most soils and 
produce? its beneficial heads nine months in the year. The 
ground must be rich, or made so by a good coat of manure, as 
they have strong tapering roots. Digging or plowing deep is 
very essential. Indeed, this is too much neglected in the cul- 
ture of all culinary crops. 

To produce a constant succession of Cabbages, three princi- 
pal sowings are necessary. For the early Spring and Summer 
crops, sow the seeds of the York. Nonpareil. Battersea and 
Vanack from the 12th to the '25th of September : each sort 
separately, on a bed of light, rich earth. Sow moderately 



CABBAGE. 



3? 



thick, broad-cast, or over the ground, if the weather be dry. 
Tramp in the seed with the feet : rake evenly and smoothly, 
and finish by giving the beds a gentle beat with the back of 
the spade. If drought continues, water them a few times, and 
they will be up in eight or ten days. Towards the end of 
October, the strongest plants of this sowing will be fit to plant 
out. Prepare some rich, well-dug ground : draw deep drills, 
eighteen inches apart, and dibble the plants one foot apart in 
the row, on the south or east side of the drills, so as the plants 
may have all the benefit of the Winter suns, and be sheltered 
by the tops of the drills from the north and north-west winds. 
After the frost sets in severely, lay straw thinly across the 
drills, which will fully protect the plants. On the approach 
of Spring, remove it ; these plants will be ready for cutting 
eight or ten days earlier than those that have been kept in 
frames all Winter. The balaDce of the plants for the main 
crop must be protected in a cold frame, covered with boards 
or shutters, removable at pleasure. It may be made by any 
person, merely taking a few boards about one foot wide : stretch 
them along in any sheltered situation, to the extent that will 
hold the required plants of Cabbages and Lettuces (say twenty 
feet long and six feet wide, which will hold four thousand 
plants, which, after allowing a considerable portion for failing, 
will be enough for a large family). Sink in the ground short 
posts of cedar or locust at back and front, and nail firmly there- 
to sound boards of oak or pine, the board at the back one foot 
high, the one on the front six inches ; this, when covered, 
will allow the rain to run off. Throw up the earth close round 
the outside of the frame, to keep the water from entering under 
the boards or among the plants. If they are kept wet during 
Winter they will die off, or what gardeners call " damp off" 
In fact, the dryer they are kept the more safe they will be. 
Give air in all clear weather during Winter. In severe frost 
they should remain covered all day, but expose them fully in 
mild weather. Take care that mice do not prey upon them. 



38 



host's family kitchen gardener. 



If they do. take as much arsenic as will lie on a ten cent piece, 
mix it with a table-spoonful of Indian meal, and lav it on a 
piece of tile or board in the frame, where it will be dry. which 
will soon destroy them. Early in Spring, transplant to the com- 
partments of the garden designed for them. Lift the plants 
carefully with a trowel, retaining as many fibres and soil as 
possible. The plants should all be assorted, planting the 
strongest where the crop is expected to be earliest, so that 
ail may come to maturity regularly. In their subsequent 
growth, if any fail or run to seed, supply the deficiencies with 
fresh plants. As the crop progresses, hoe frequently and deep : 
destroy every weed, and as the plants grow, draw earth round 
the stems, which will strengthen and forward them. The 
large Late Yorks require the same care and treatment. They 
will mature in succession, according to the lateness of the sort. 
Where a supply of plants has not been obtained in the Fall, 
it will be necessary to sow seed on a hot-bed about the middle 
of February — for the management of which see the article 
Ctc uoeber — only the hot-bed will not require to be so strong, 
and a greater portion of air admitted to the frame in sunshine, 
and even a small portion at night when there is no frost, grad- 
ually hardening them as they grow, till they become fit for 
planting out. which will be about the end of March or first of 
April. I have seen, however, where the garden depended up- 
on the exertions of the cook, or the dexterous management of the 
housewife, a good crop of early Cabbage plants grown in the 
kitchen window. It is a lamentable fact that many of our 
otherwise industrious farmers would have no vegetables were 
it not for the exertions of the female portion of the family. 
The health and comfort of a family would be greatly enhanced 
by giving a full portion of attention to the manuring and crop- 
ing of a vegetable garden. It is absolutely necessary in this 
country, that every farmer should be a gardener, and every 
gardener a farmer. 

For the late Summer. IVJ. and Winter supplv sow the seed 



CABBAGE. 



from the first of April to the first of May. as directed for the 
September sowing. The sorts are Early Dutch. Drumhead. 
Bergen. Savoys, and Red Dutch : sow also a few large York. 
They will come in July or August,, and be found useful for 
filling up vacant ground or patching. Transplanting may be 
in May, June, and July, as circumstances will admit. When 
planting out in Summer, as the weather is frequently very 
dry and hot. the ground should be fresh dug. the plants care- 
fully lifted (having given them a copious watering the evening 
previous), and their roots dipped into a puddle or mush of 
cow dung. soot, or earth, before planting : then dibble them in 
firmly, give a good watering, arid a certain growth will follow. 
The rows may be two feet apart, and eighteen inches from 
plant to plant. The after culture the same as directed for 
early Cabbage. When Cabbage heads have been cut, the 
stumps should be dug up every week and deposited in the 
rubbish heap. It is waste to allow them to sprout and grow, 
or decay and evaporate in the air. Some seasons, the fly (a 
small black beetle) destroys the plants as soon as they appear 
above the ground. Soot, air-slacked lime, and wood ashes 
sprinkled over them, is in part a preventive. Others destro} 7 
them by having a hen cooped, allowing the young chickens to 
have free access to the plants, from which they exterminate 
the flies. I invariably grow my scarce seed in boxes elevated 
eighteen inches above the ground, entirely out of the reach of 
this insect, which does not appear on elevated objects. This 
operation requires more attention in watering, but a certainty 
is always gained by it. 

Wintering Cabbage — If you have not a dry, airy, vegeta- 
ble cellar, nor an open shed to spare for burying them, take a 
sheltered part of the garden and bury the roots, stalk, and 
part of the head in the earth, over which, in severe weather, 
place a few boards, or a light sprinkling of straw. In Southern 
latitudes this is unnecessary : there they can withstand the 



40 



BUJST J S FAMILY KITCHEN GARDENER. 



climate. Coleworts, a small kind of Cabbage, of a very tender 
nature and delicate flavor, can be successfully cultivated as 
directed for early Cabbage. Where the Winters are not se- 
vere, they, with Broccoli and Brussels sprouts, can be had for 
use the whole season. 



CARBOON. 
Cy'nara Cardunculus. — Car don ^ Fr. — Kardonen, Ger. 
The Cardoon is somewhat like "the Artichoke, but rises to a 
greater height, and, with it, may be classed as one of the fan- 
ciful vegetables, grown exclusively for the name, or to please 
the fancy of some professed epicure. At least it has but little 
nutriment ; the tender stalks, after being blanched, are either 
stewed or put in soups or salads during Autumn and Winter. 

Culture. — This is easily accomplished, by sowing the seeds 
about the middle of Spring, where they are to remain. They 
succeed in soils of a sandy loam, inclining to moisture, well 
enriched by manure. Plant the seeds in a row six inches 
apart and one inch deep. When they come up, thin them out 
to one foot apart, as they require room to grow four feet wide 
and five feet high. Keep clean from weeds, hoe deep and fre- 
quently. About the beginning of October, when the plants 
have attained their full size, they should be prepared for 
blanching : choose a dry • day, and tie the leaves of the plant 
carefully and lightly together with matting or small hay-bands, 
previously removing all the damaged or decayed ones ; keep- 
ing the whole upright, binding the plant closely round with 
twisted straw or hay -bands, from the root to about two-thirds of 
its height, covering it so as to prevent the earth from coming 
in contact with the ribs of the leaves ; then earth them up the 
height of the bands, as directed for Celery. In three weeks 
they will be sufficiently blanched for use, when they may be 
taken up as wanted. In seveA3 weather protect them as di- 
rected for Celery. 



CARROT- 41 



CARROT. 

Daucus Cardta. — Carottc, Fr. — Mohre^ Ger. 

e< The Carrot/' says an eminent physician. " is a most whole- 
some culinary root ; it strengthens and nourishes the body, 
and is very beneficial for consumptive persons.''' Carrots are 
generally served to table boiled, with meats ; they make an 
excellent ingredient in soup, and form an agreeable pudding. 
As an agricultural root, they are not surpassed for feeding 
cattle. Horses will do more work and look better on them 
than on any other feed. It is supposed to have been intro- 
duced into Europe from the island of Crete, since which they 
have been greatly improved. The following are the leading 
varieties cultivated for supplying the kitchen regularly at all 
seasons of the year. 

Early Horn is the most forward in ripening, and the best 
adapted for early crops, and in my opinion the best adapted 
for any crop. Although they are shorter than the other sorts, 
they require a less depth of soil, and can be grown much closer 
together. Its peculiar character is, the tap-root drawing ab- 
ruptly off to a point. It is higher colored when pure, and 
sweeter in taste than the other varieties, and can be sown as 
late as the 20th of July. I have this year a very excellent 
crop sown on the 28th of July, after the Onion crop was taken 
from the ground. 

Long Orange is the sort generally giown for a Winter crop. 
It is paler in color than the former, and grows to a great 
length, frequently two feet long. 

Altringham is a bright red variety, peculiar in having from 
one to two inches of the top above ground. I consider this in 
flavor next to the Early Horn. It is excellent for a general 
crop, being a fine keeper for "Winter use. 

Long Surrey. — This variety is but imperfectly known here, 



42 



BUISr'S FAMILY KITCHEN GARDENER. 



It is like the Long Orange, but of a brighter color. In soil 
of a deep sandy loam, it produces a heavy crop, and is very 
suitable for the Farm. 

Long White is much cultivated by the French for season- 
ing and for soups. On light, deep soils, it produces a heavy crop. 

Culture. — In the culture of this excellent vegetable, a deep, 
light, rich, sandy soil, well manured, should if- possible be em- 
ployed. If the ground is not of this quality in the preceding 
year, it should be dug deep, and well broken. If this is no! 
done, the roots fork or spread in a lateral direction, injuring 
both their size and quality. It is very important to have an 
early crop, for such the Horn sort only should be used. Sow 
on a warm border, as early as the season will admit. In sow- 
ing, a calm day should be preferred, as the seeds are very light , 
they also bundle together, and should be rubbed between the 
hands in dry sand or earth, to separate them. The preferable 
way of sowing, is in shallow drills, half an inch deep, and nine 
to twelve inches apart, which admits of the hoe being made 
use of in thinning out the crop, and clearing off the weeds. 
As soon as the plants are up, and can be easily observed, 
take a hoe of three or four inches broad, and thin out the crop 
to three or four inches apart. The main crop intended for 
large roots, should be thinned to six inches apart. Frequent 
hoeing and stirring the soil, whether there are weeds to destroy 
or not, is very essential to the growth of the roots. From the 
first of May to the first of June, is the period to sow for a 
general crop, which will be ready to house about the first of 
November. As soon as the leaves begin to turn yellow, the 
roots can be taken up in a dry day. Cut the tops off about an 
inch from the crown, and pack the roots in dry earth or sand 
in the cellar, for Winter use ; or they may be pitted out of doors, 
covered with two inches of straw and a foot of earth, to keep 
them from frost, when they can be in use till the following 
April. — Beets may be kent in the sam* manner. 



CAULIFLOWER. 



43 



CAULIFLOWER. 

Brdssica oleracea, var. — Chou-fteur, Fr. — Blumenkohl, Grer. 

This very delicate vegetable was first introduced into England 
from the island of Cypress, about a century and a half ago. 
Since then it has been greatly improved by the skill of the 
gardener. We are inclined to believe that there are only two 
varieties of the Cauliflower, though there are several sorts sold 
in the seed-shops. The early and the late are the two. and 
even these have frequently very little distinctive character, where 
they are under the same culture ; and it is somewhat curious that 
the Dutch prefer the English seed, and the English prefer the 
Dutch. We have therefore to import the seeds from both 
countries every year, to meet the ideas of the purchasers 

Culture. — The proper seasons for sowing the seeds are, for 
the early Spring or Summer crop, between the eighth and 
twentieth of September ; and for the late Autumn crop, about 
the first of April. The plants, as soon as they are two inches 
high, should be planted out in a bed of rich, light earth, three 
inches apart each way. so as to grow firm and stocky to remove 
to their final place of growth. 

For the purpose of growing them in perfection, a bed of the 
richest light earth, two feet deep, and one-third of it well de- 
composed manure, in an open exposure, sheltered from the 
north-west, is requisite — the whole to be surrounded with a 
close frame, and covered with glass or shutters. It may be 
prepared about the first of October, to receive the plants after 
the ground has fully settled, which will take two weeks. Lift 
the plants carefully with a trowel from where they were trans- 
planted, and plant them eighteen inches apart each way, into 
the pit or frame prepared for them. Give a gentle watering 
to the soil round the plant : press it down firmly, and little or 



44 



twist's family kitchen GARDENER 



no more water will be re-quired till the Spring. Between each 
of these, plant a Lettuce of the early Butter or Royal Cabbage 
sorts, that will head in February and March, and be used before 
the Cauliflower makes much leaf to cover the ground. It will 
be necessary to surround the frame with dry litter to keep out 
the frost, and to cover the glass or shutters with dry straw or 
mats in time of severe weather, observing to give plenty of 
air. in clear, mild days, to prevent the plants from drawing or 
damping off at the neck. With such treatment we have seen 
Cauliflowers eighteen inches in diameter, and nearly as white as 
snow. "When they are in a growing state, they should never 
suffer with drought. Allow a copious supply of water — if en- 
riched, so much the better. Soap-suds is an excellent nutri- 
tive for the growth of vegetables. In the Southern States very 
little protection is required. Surround the roots with dry litter, 
and cover the plants in severe nights with mats or branches 
of evergreens. Be careful to supply moisture whenever the 
plants demand it. which is readily observed by the drooping, of 
the leaves. 

As many of my readers may not have seen a Cauliflower, nor 
know from the above what it looks like, to such we say, it is a 
kind of Cabbage that produces within its long, pale-green leaves, 
a white head, very similar to a basin rounded full of the curd 
which is commonly called Cottage Cheese. This is about as 
plain a description of the appearance of this vegetable as we 
can give. In cutting Cauliflowers, the head should be cut off 
with some inches of the stalk, together with most of the sur- 
rounding leaves, which should be trimmed down nearly to the 
circumference of the head, when for present use : but the 
leaves of those required to be kept a few days, or intended for 
market, should be retained in their full length. If the flowers 
are opening more rapidly than demand requires, they can be. 
retarded a few days, by folding the leaves over the heads. By 
this process, the flower is kept of a purer white, being defended 
^rom the sun 



CELERY. 



45 



• CELERY. 

A'pium graveolens. — Celeri. Fr. — Selle.rie. Ger. 

The Celery is a native of Britain, and is found in marshy 
ground, ditches, and such situations. In its wild state, it has 
a rank, coarse taste. The effect of cultivation is remarkably 
displayed in producing the sweet, crisp, mild, stalk of Celery, 
generally very palatable to all. from a wild, detestable, and ap- 
parently worthless weed. 

This vegetable is yearly gaining repute, and is cultivated to 
a great extent, though in our market far from being in perfec- 
tion. 

Use. — The leaf- stalks, when blanched, are used raw as a 
salad ; they are also stewed, and used for seasoning soups ; an 
agreeable conserve can also be made from the stalks when per- 
fectly blanched. 

There are several sorts in cultivation, but they may be set 
aside to give place to the two following : — 

White Solid, which is most generally prefered. on account of 
the color, and is considered by some as the most crisp : and 

Red Solid, which differs from the former only in color, though 
it withstands the frost better than the White, showing, at least, 
that there is a constitutional difference. Manchester Red is 
another name for this variety. There are also sorts sold as 
Giant Red and Giant White. Seymour's Red and Seymour's 
White, all corresponding with the varieties known as the Red 
and White Solid Celery. There is another variety known as 
the Lion's-Paw Celery, pure white, but in our opinion inferior 
to the White Solid. As for giant sorts, they are attained 
purely by culture, and astonishingly so too. Seed from the 
same plant, in the hands o. ? some growers, will produce stalks 
four feet long, blanched to a silvery whiteness : with others, a 
meagre stalk of a few inches high, with its base of a dirty 



46 



BUISTS FAMILY KITCHEN GARDENER. 



rusty, greenish-white — which, of course, will be pronounced ac 
inferior sort, and the blame attached to the^seed. 

Culture. — To procure early Celery, the seed should be sown 
on a gentle hot-bed, from the first to the middle of March 
Collect a load or two of warm horse-manure. Put it in a 
form eighteen inches thick, to be covered with a frame and glass 
sash. When the violent heat has subsided, cover it with sis 
inches of light soil, whereon sow your seed. Press it down, 
and rake it lightly, giving a gentle watering. Put on the glasses ; 
shade from severe sun ; give a little air from 11 to 2 o'clock : 
and as soon as the plants are up, air freely. Thin them out to 
half an inch apart. When they are three inches high, plant 
them out into a well-prepared bed of rich, light soil, which 
will be from the first to the middle of April — cover at 
night with mats or boards, to protect from cold or frost. By 
the first of June, they will be sufficiently strong to plant out 
in trenches for blanching. However, where extreme earliness 
is not an object, sow the seed about the first of April, on a rich, 
dry, warm border : when up, thin them out. About the mid- 
dle of May, transplant them, three or four inches apart, into 
another piece of ground, to stock and harden, till they are 
finally planted into the rows for permanent culture. 

The regular way is to select a level and rich piece of ground ; 
dig the trenches a foot wide, ten inches deep, and three feet 
from each other : if convenient, from north to south, though 
any other aspect will do. Let the earth be regularly thrown 
out on each side of the trench, and sloped off. Five or six 
inches of well decomposed manure should then be worked full 
half-spade deep into the bottom of each trench. The plants 
which were transplanted into the beds or frame should be 
carefully lifted, and prepared for planting, which is done by 
cutting off the extremity of the roots : shortening their tops 
or leaves, but not so low as to injure the young centre leaves 
and divesting the neck of the plant from suckers. This dona 



CELERY. 



47 



they may be planted into the trenches, at the distance of four 
or five inches apart : after which, give the whole a good soak- 
ing of water, and shade from the sun for a few days. Their 
after-culture, is to stir the soil frequently, with a small hoe, 
and giving a copious supply of water in continued dry weather. 
About the middle of August, or first of September, tie the 
leaves together, or hold them tight with one hand, while with 
the other the earth is carefully drawn up round the stems, but 
not so high as to allow the earth to get into the centre of the 
plant, which causes it to rot or rust. The soil for this purpose 
has to be broken, and well pulverized with the spade. If the 
weather be dry and hot, Celery should not be earthed up so 
early : in such case, a row for early use may be blanched, by 
placing a board on each side, and throwing the earth along the 
bottom edge of the board, to prevent the air from getting under. 
By this means it can be very well blanched, and ready for the 
table by the middle of September. I am aware that writers 
on the subject say, - earth it up every few days as it continues 
to grow:" but with such a practice in warm weather, it will not 
grow long, but rot off and decay. About the first of October, 
earthing up may proceed without injury ; but let it be done 
firmly and evenly, and in a sloping direction, from the base to 
nearly the top of the leaves. In that state, it will remain sound 
for a long time. If continued frost be apprehended, dry litter 
should be spread over the plants, and a quantity lifted and laid 
in a bed of sand or earth in the vegetable cellar, in which it 
will keep fresh for several weeks. 

When planting, it is a very convenient method to mix both 
Red and White together : you will thus obtain both sorts in use, 
from the opening of one trench. Large fields of Celery can be 
pretty successfully cultivated with the plough, for supplying 
the market. It is a crop that generally makes a good returp 
to the grower. 



48 



buist's family kitchen gardener. 



Celeriac, or Turnip-Rooted Celery, is occasionally cultivated 
for its seasoning qualities, and when well boiled is used at the 
table. Culture, same as Cabbage. When the roots have ac- 
quired a tolerable size, draw the earth to each side of the row, 
three or four inches high, which will render them white and 
tender, particularly so in moist weather (the whole of this 
family being partial to moisture). In from four to six weeks 
after being earthed up, they will be in good order for use. 



CHERVIL. 

Scdndix Cerefdlium. — Cerfeuil, Pr. — Gartenkerbel, Ger. 
Is a warm, mild, and aromatic plant, a native of Europe, 
and in olden times of great repute. After being boiled, it was 
eaten with oil and vinegar, and considered a panacea for cour- 
age, comfort to the heart, and strength to the body. It is much 
cultivated by the French and Dutch, who use the tender leaves 
in soups and salads as frequently as we use Parsley, and is 
considered by many to be a milder and more agreeable ingre- 
dient. 

Culture. — Chervil is an annual plant, and should be sown 
in March, April, and May, in drills, about a quarter of an inch 
deep, and nine inches apart. Cover lightly, and press the soil 
firm with the foot, rake evenly, and give a gentle watering in 
dry weather. The leaves are fit for use, when two to four 
inches high. Cut them off close ; they will come up again, and 
may be gathered in succession throughout the season. 



CHIVE. 

Allium Schcen&prassum. — Civette, Fr. — Binsenlauch, Ger. 
Allium is the botanical generic name for all roots of the 
Onion family, to which this belongs. It is a British plant 



CORN SALAD. 



49- 



and is supposed to partake of the flavor of both the Onion 
and the Leek. Its principal use is for soups and salads. The 
fine rush-like leaves, when about three or four inches high, are 
fit for use. They grow again with surprising rapidity, and are 
the earliest Spring salad, or seasoning. 

Culture. — It is a hardy perennial bulb, and, when once 
planted, will continue to grow for many years in any soil. 
They make very good edgings for any compartment of the 
kitchen garden. Plant them in March or October, a few 
inches apart, and two inches deep : they will s.oon spread into a 
large bush, and not suffer in the-extreniest cold. 



CORN SALAD. 
Fedia oliioria. — Macke. Fr. — Acker salat, Ger. 
Fetticus or Lambs' Lettuce is a native of Europe, and cultiva- 
ted extensively as a Spring salad, but in France they frequent- 
ly dress it like Spinach. It is called Lambs' Lettuce, from its 
having been in repute as an early feed for lambs. Every gar- 
den should have a patch of this very palatable vegetable, as it 
comes early in Spring, when even the sight of green is refresh- 
ing. 

Culture, — -Sow the seed from the 8th to the 20th of Sep- 
tember, in shallow drills, one-fourth inch deep and six inches 
apart : cover lightly, and if dry weather, tread or roll the 
ground to press the seed and soil together. It is an annual, 
and requires to be sown every year. Hoe and keep clear of 
weeds ; in November cover slightly with straw : when want- 
ed, the leaves should be picked and not cut. If the "Winter 
proves mild, it will be in use the whole season. If the seed is 
not fresh every year, it will frequently lie six months in the 
ground before it vegetates. It requires good rich soil ; on 
such the flavor is greatly improved 



50 



BUIST J S FAMILY KITCHEN GARDENER. 



CRESS. 

Lepidium Sativum — Cresson, Fr. — Kresse, icr. 

Curled or Pepper Cress takes its name from its warm, spicy, 
pungent flavor. It is very generally cultivated as an early 
salad. In Europe it is daily on the tables of the wealthy, and 
can be grown fit for use on a warm hot-bed in fo'ty-eight hours. 

Culture.— The seed should always be sowe on very rich 7 
light ground, that it may grow as rapidly as possible, being 
cut while perfectly young and in a crisp state. It is fully 
ready when one inch high, and is best when only once cut ? 
though many allow it to get two or three inches high, cutting 
off only the tops and allowing it to grow for repeated croping, 
To have it very early, sow in February on a gentle hot-bed, 
where the glass can be placed within a few inches of the soil. 
The sowings in the open ground begin about the end of March, 
and should be continued every week for two months. Sow the 
seed very thick, either in drills or broad cast ; earth over 
very lightly, just enough to cover the seed ; and press it 
even with the back of the spade. In dry weather give oc- 
casional waterings. In cold nights cover the ground * with 
mats, or straw, to ward off any frost. When grown in hot-beds, 
give plenty of air during the day. A family can use from 
four ounces to a pound of seed. 

CUCUMBER, 

Gitcumis Sattvus. — Concomb^ Fr. — Ghirke, Ger* 

The Cucumber is a fruit of great antiquity, found wild in 
all warm countries, and is cult : vated to an amazing extent all 
over the world— a surprising "act, when contrasted with its 



CUCUMBER. 



51 



nourishing qualities, few or none of our culinary vegetables 
having less nutriment, it being of a cold and watery nature, 
and to persons of a weak and delicate constitution very indi- 
gestive. When dressed with oil. vinegar, and pepper, it is 
freely used to cool the feelings and sharpen the appetite : hence 
the common saying. as cool as a cucumber/' Of the many 
sorts in cultivation, we select the following, as being dissimilar, 
and worthy of culture, either for the frame or open air. 

Early Short White Prickly. — Fruit from four to six inches 
long, of a sea-green color, with white spines ; forces very well, 
and is grown extensively for market. It does not get yellow 
so soon as the Early Short Prickly, which is of the same size, 
of a dark green color, with black spines. 

Long Early Fra me. — This is used both for forcing and open 
air culture. It grows from six to ten inches long, a good 
bearer and a very excellent variety. 

Manchester Prize. — Dark green, with black spines. An 
English variety : of great excellence either as a fruit or abun- 
dant bearer ; generally grown in the gardens of the wealthy 
about Philadelphia, and is often seen at our Exhibitions twenty 
inches to two feet long. 

Kerrisoirfs Long White Spine, in size and form similar to the 
former. The spines or prickles are white : a good bearer. 

Long Prickly grows about ten inches long : dark-green 
color, black prickles ; a great bearer. This variety, with the 
two first named, are the most certain for general crops ; the 
other long sorts are equally as crisp, if not more so, but they 
are not so plentiful bearers, neither do they produce seed in 
any quantity. If different sorts of Cucumbers are grown con- 
tiguous to each other, they are certain to mix, and the seed 
from them will not produce the genuine variety. There are 
also wh\te Cucumbers, and white with black spines, but theii 
taste is flatter and more insipid. 

Cui ture in the open air is of the simplest character, 



52 



BUISTS FAMILY KITCHEN 3-ARDENER. 



Merely dig out a hole, about a foot wide and deep ; fill it with 
rich, sandy soil ; raise it above the surface about six inches : 
the hills should be six feet apart each way. Any time in May, 
sow a few seeds therein, and the result is certain. If the 
weather be warm, they will grow in a few days ; if the nights 
are cold, protect them. There is frequently a little bug, which 
preys upon the tender leaves : if so, soot and wood ashes 
sprinkled over them, while wet with the dew, will retard the 
progress of the depredator. As soon as the vines have made 
three rough leaves, nip the points off to make them branch 
out. They will fruit sooner by it. Three vines to one hill is 
quite enough. To have young fruit in February and March 
is rather a nice operation, but any one who can command a 
few loads of warm horse-manure, can have them from April to 
October. That farmers in the country may have the article 
either for family use or for sale, a few hints may be in place on 

Forcing Cucumbers. — The first requisite is to obtain four 
feet square of warm stable-manure ; turn it up into a heap for 
eight or ten days, to allow the rank vapor to pass off, when it 
may be placed into any form to suit a sash. The general size 
is four by six. feet, and three or four feet high at the back, 
sloping to two and a half or three feet at front. Either make 
or have made a frame of boards, at least fifteen inches deep, 
three feet wide, and five feet long, or the full size of the sash. 
Let the dung-bed be a foot all round larger than the frame. 
Should heavy rain or snow fall, or it be a severe frost, the 
manure should be protected with a covering of straw. Care, 
however, should always be taken that the reduction of the 
heat in the dung is not carried too far, before making up the 
bed, as, when that is the case, too little heat will afterwards be 
produced, and the young plants will be of a yellow color in- 
stead of a rich green. The bed should be built square up, and 
regularly beaten down with the fork. When finished, put on 
the frame and sash : keep it close for a day or twD, to draw 



CUCUMBER. 



53 



ud the heat ; air should then be admitted for a few days, dur- 
ing the day, by tilting up the sash at the back a few inches, 
to allow the steam to pass off, which it generally does in four 
or five days or less. Supposing the bed now in order, put in 
a quantity (three barrow-loads) of light, rich loam : none bet- 
ter than that from the surface of the woods. In two or three 
lays the earth will be sufficiently warm for sowing the seeds. 
If the plants are to be removed into other frames, sow them 
in pots ; if not to be removed, sow them in a hill made in the 
centre of the bed, by placing one barrow-full more of earth in 
it. Sow a few dozen seeds to meet contingencies, or any extra 
supply, in pots, in case of damping off — which frequently hap- 
pens in cloudy "Winter weather. Cover the sash at night with 
straw mats, or any similar protection, and surround the bed 
with litter or boards, to keep the piercing winds from carrying 
off the heat. The seed should be two or three years old ; (it is 
better than new seed, which goes more to vine than fruit. ) 
It will be up in twenty-four hours, and in two or three days 
will grow into strong plants. During their growth, admit 
fresh air every day at the back ; give the young plants 
as much light as possible ; when they have attained their 
third rough leaf, nip the point off the vine, to cause it to 
branch. If the soil or the plants appear to be dry, give them 
water in the forenoon, which has been kept in the bed during 
the previous night, that it may be in a warm state. The 
plants succeed best when they are transplanted, and plant them 
deep enough for the earth to reach to their seed-leaves. As the 
plants grow, roots will protrude from their stems, to which earth 
maybe drawn. The roots will also appear through the hill, 
to which a farther supply of fresh soil may be added. When 
the plants have grown and the sun is very warm, they may flag 
or droop : if so, sprinkle a few straws or a very thin mat on 
the glass, right over them, about mid-day ; but it is best to 
grow them without this precaution ; and it is unnecessary, when 
they have sufficient moisture, heat, and depth of soil. The 



54 



buist's family kitchen gardener. 



requisite temperature is from 65° to 75°, and from 75° to 100° 
by day Experience can manage these affairs with sight and 
feeling, but the untutored require the aid of a thermometer 
and a stick to poke into the dung-bed, to ascertain the inter- 
nal heat of the material. When it begins to decline, give it a 
fresh lining of manure all around, of eighteen inches in thick- 
ness, and as high as to cover half of the frame. The vines, if 
well managed, will bloom within a month from the day of sow- 
ing. The male and female flowers are on the same plant, and 
art may render assistance, by taking the male blossom and put- 
ting its centre within the female, which is easily distinguished 
by having at its base a form of a cucumber, half an inch long. 
After being impregnated, it will be fit to cut in two weeks. 
These operations may be begun and gone through any time 
from Christmas to March. To cultivate cucumbers extensive- 
ly, all that is requisite is a preparation of manure, frames, 
and sash. Use the above described bed for growing the seed- 
ling plants, transplanting them into larger frames or pits, (see 
fig. 15,) three plants being sufficient for each sash, and fifty to 
seventy fruit may be cut from each light. When the author was 
gardener to the late Henry Pratt, Esq., of Lemon Hill, near this 
city, he cut Cucumbers in February, and had them for the table 
regularly till they could be obtained from the open ground. 

Cucumbers can also be cultivated under hand-glasses ; (see 
Fig. 13.) Dig out a pit early in April, eighteen inches deep 
and wide, fill it with warm manure, and cover with six or 
eight inches of rich light soil, in which sow the seed. Hand- 
glasses are made of various sizes, but such as are eighteen 
inches square will be found the most useful. Admit air dur- 
ing sunshine, as directed for frames, and if cold nights prevail, 
cover them with mats or litter of any kind. Cucumbers for 
pickling should be sown from tne end of June to the 15th of 
July. Either the Short Prickly or Long Green is suitable 
for the purpose. There is also a small Cluster Cucumber used 
by some for bottling or mixing with a finer sort of pickles 



ECKt -PLANT. 



5 5 



Where Cucumbers are grown for family use, it is of great ad- 
vantage to cover the ground with straw, which will keep the 
sun from parching the soil in hot, dry weather, and prevent 
the blossoms and young fruit from being covered with soil 
during heavy rains. 



EGG-PLANT. 

Solatium Melongena, — Melongene, Fr. — Tollapfet Grer. 

The Egg-Plant was introduced from Africa, and is called 
by some the Guinea Squash. It is generally cultivated, and be- 
coming more so every year. They are cut. into thin slices 
and fried, and have a taste very similar to oysters. Others 
use them in stews and soups. They are fit for the kitchen 
when they attain the size of a goose egg, and are in use till they 
become nearly ripe, which is easily known by the seeds chang- 
ing to a brown color. Many individuals are exceedingly fond 
of them, while others will not taste them in any form The 
following varieties are cultivated : 

Large Prickly- Stemmed Purple grows larger than any of the 
varieties, and is frequently seen two feet in circumference : 
shape, oval; color, dark purple. 

Smooth- Stemmed, so called because it has no prickles on the 
stem, does not grow so large as the former. Shape, long oval ; 
f^olor, dark shining purple : a few days earlier than the Prickly. 

Long Purple is considered by some superior in flavor to 
either of the former : it is eight to ten days earlier, a very 
prolific variety, and the best for family use. 

White Egg-Plant. — The name Egg Plant is taken from 
this variety, which is, when in a half-grown state, very like a 
hen's egg in shape, color, and size. 

Culture. — There is a great ambition among growers to have 
this vegetable in early use. I delight to encourage this emu 



56 



BUlsrs FAMILY KITCHEN GARDENER. 



lation whenever it is manifested. Competition promotes in- 
dustry, and industry promotes health. Man possessing these 
ingredients is very rarely unhappy. Sow the seeds on a gentle 
hot-bed about the first of March, on a rich, light soil ; give a 
good watering, and keep the *Vame close for a few day? till the 
seed comes up. Be careful to give the soil a sprinkling of 
water whenever it appears to be dry. As soon as the plants 
grow, give air freely, covering the glass in cold nights. When 
they attain the height of two inches, thin them out to three 
inches apart, or transplant them into another bed. Where 
there is plenty of room, the latter is the best method. They 
can be transplanted out from the 1st to the 15th of May, into 
a warm border of rich ground, from whence the early Lettuce or 
Radishes have been taken. Give a good watering after being 
removed ; hoe well : keep clean : as they grow draw earth to 
their stems. They will cut about the end of June or 1st of 
July. For a late crop, sow in April, on a warm border where 
they are to remain, or transplant in June during moist weath- 
er. Plant in rows two feet apart, and two feet from plant to 
plant. The seed will keep three or four years. Sow Valen- 
tine Beans between the rows. 



ENDIVE. 

Chicbrium Endivia. — Chicaree, Fr. — Endivie. Ger. 

The Garden Endive is a native of northern China, and has 
been cultivated in Europe the past three centuries for a 
Winter salad. The French are particularly fond of it, using 
it raw, pickled, fried and boiled, esteemiDg it exceedingly 
wholesome in every form, and agreeing with every constitu- 
tion. There are four varieties, which we will name in the or- 
der we esteem them. 

Green Curled has beautiful curled or lancinated leaves. It 



ENDIVE. 



57 



is a fine stocky and hardy variety, is the principal sort for 
salads, and when well cultivated, is very*»beautiful. 

Broad- Leaved has a plain, thick leaf, slightly wrinkled, and 
turning inwards ; it is preferred for stews and soups. 

White Curled is rather a delicate variety, and cannot well 
be carried through the Winter : its principal use is therefore 
for the early Autumn crop. It will blanch in a few days. 

Batavian is a broad, plain-leaved sort, principally cultivated 
for cooking, and makes a fine head. 

Culture. — For the early crop, sow about the first of July. 
It will do on the ground where early Cabbage or Peas have 
come off, by giving it a coat of manure. Draw drills the depth 
of the hoe, one foot apart, and sow therein ; sprinkle a little 
earth in the bottom of the drill sufficient to cover the seed, 
which will be up in a few days. If dry weather ensue, water 
once or twice till the plants get hold. Thin them out when 
about two inches high to ten inches apart ; hoe freely, and 
keep clear of weeds. Being grown in these shallow drills, they 
are more easily earthed up and grow better in warm, dry 
weather. When the leaves have attained about eight inches 
long they are fit for blanching ; for this purpose a dry day must 
be chosen. Gather up the leaves in your hand, in a close and 
rounded form ; see that there is no earth or litter in their cen- 
tre ; tie them up with a piece of cotton-twist or mating, which 
is to go several times round the plant, causing it to close at the 
top to prevent the rain from penetrating to and injuring its cen- 
tre : then draw a little earth round its base for support. If 
the leaves are not perfectly dry when tied up, they will rot, or 
become so stained as to be unfit for the table. They will take 
about ten days in warm and twenty days in cool weather to 
blanch for use ; a judgment may thus be formed of the quan- 
tity to be tied up at a time. For late crops, sow about the 
end of July. If the ground is not ready, they may be sown 
in a bed and transplanted during moist weather, giving a few 
3 # 



58 



buist's family kitchen gardener. 



waterings if the season be dry. To have it in perfection 
through Winter, it should be planted in frames in August 
and allowed to grow there : or removed from the ground into 
the frames about the first of November, lifting a portion of soil 
with their roots. Keep them rather dry during Winter, as 
they are liable to damp off : cover with shutters or sash : 
sprinkle a few dry leaves among the plants and tie them up as 
demand requires. Give plenty of air in sunshine or mild 
weather : they require protection only from heavy rains and 
severe frosts. Observe, the leaves must not be tied up when 
*hey are in a frozen state. They may also be blanched by 
covering them with a pot of any description, which is often 
used as a precautionary method in Winter. 



FENNEL. 

Anlthv.m Fcenicidum. — L' ' Aneth. Fr. — Dillkraui. Ger. 

Is a native of Europe, and may be seen growing wild 
on the banks of rivers and near the sea coasts. It is an in- 
dispensable ingredient in French cookery, and extensively used 
by the English, but comparatively in little demand with us. 
Its tender stalks are used in soups and fish sauces, also as 
garnishes for dishes. It is conspicuous as a medicinal plant, 
and admitted into the Materia Medica : its virtues are stom- 
achic and carminative. 

Culture. — Fennel is cultivated by sowing the seeds early 
in Spring, in shallow drills half an inch deep and ten inches 
wide, covering with fine earth. They should be sown where 
they are intended to grow. Thin out the plants to four 
inches apart : a dozen of good roots will supply any family, and 
when once established, there is little fear of losing it. being a 
perennial and will last many years. Seedlings will also come 
up plentifully around the old plants, though it is not advisable 



GARLIC HORSE-RADISH. 



59 



to allow the plants to go to seed unless it is wanted for use. 
If the Sower stems are cut off as soon as they appear, it will 
encourage a production of young leaves below. 



GARLIC. 

Al lium Sativum. — Ail. Fr. — Knoblauch. Ger. 

The term Garlic is given to this vegetable on account of its 
powerful and penetrating scent. It is a native of many parts 
of the world, and has been in general use for two centuries. 
Many very excellent and medicinal qualities are attributed to 
its root, and it would no doubt be more generally used if it were 
not for its unpleasant odor. The French use it in sauces and 
salads. 

Culture. — There are two varieties cultivated, under the 
name of Large and Small. As either of them is large enough 
for any purpose, one variety only is necessary. The root is 
bulb, divided into parts called psuedo-bulbs or cloves. It is 
propagated by planting these cloves in drills two inches deep, 
six inches apart, and four inches from plant to plant, early in 
Spring, on light, rich ground. It requires to be frequently 
hoed and kept free from weeds. About the end of July the 
bulbs are generally full grown, which will be evident from the 
yellow appearance and withering of the leaves. They must 
then be taken up. cleaned and dried, and afterwards tied in 
bundles, to be hung up in a shed or room and preserved for use. 



HORSE-RADISH. 

Cochledria armordcia-. — Cranson* Fr. — Merrettig* &er. 

Horse-radish is a native of Europe, growing in deep soil and 
marshy places. It has been long cultivated in our gardens 



6 



BU 1ST S FAMILY KITCHEN GARDENER. 



either for medicine, salads, or sauces. The root, scraped into 
shreds, or grated tine and soaked in vinegar, is a well-known 
accompaniment to roast beef. Its medicinal effects are to 
stimulate the glands to activity : and on account of its warm 
nature it is good in numerous cases arising from cold and 
viscid juices. The root, when fresh grated, assists digestion ; 
it may therefore be properly employed as a condiment at the 
table. It is also considered of great service in rheumatic 
cases, and on the first appearance of scurvy. 

Culture. — In a commercial point of view it has become of 
late extensively cultivated ; acres are yearly planted and al- 
lowed to grow two or three years, when it is lifted and sold by 
weight to pickle manufacturers, who grind it up, and pack it in 
jars with vinegar for home use and exportation. It grows best 
in a deep, rich soil, inclining to moisture : on low ground, or 
contiguous to water. It is propagated by the tops or crowns, 
or any part of the root cut into pieces two inches long will 
grow. 

When a convenient spot of ground is chosen, take out an 
opening at one end fifteen inches deep, in the common way of 
trenching, and two feet wide. Plant therein two rows, one foot 
apart and nine inches from plant to plant. Put over them 
from the next trench fifteen inches of soil, and so continuing 
till the whole is finished. 

Another method of planting is readily done by trenching 
the ground as above, and leveling and raking it properly. 
Then take a dibber fifteen inches long, and of sufficient thick- 
ness to allow the sets to drop into the bottom of the holes so 
made, and fill up the holes' with fine earth. This method 
makes a very clean and handsome root. To make the most of 
every part of the Garden, some light and quick crop may be 
sown on the ground early in Spring after being planted, such 
as Spinach, Kadish. Lettuce, &c, which will be off in time not 
to injure the roots. As Spring has its multitude of operations. 



INDIAN CORN. 



61 



we recommend the Horse-radish to be planted in November. 
When the roots are required for use, open a trench on one 
side of the row, then clear the plants down to the roots from 
whence they spring, and cut them off, leaving a small portion 
to form another plant the following season, though it is deci- 
dedly preferable to make a new plantation every two years, as 
when the roots become old they have a hard, bitter taste. 
Before the Winter sets in, there should be a sufficient supply 
lifted for use, and stored in the root-cellar, in moist earth. If 
they are allowed to become dry, they lose their sprightly flavor. 



INDIAN CORN. 

Zea Mays.— Mais, Fr. 

This vegetable is universally, cultivated for the table through- 
out the United States. Its varieties are numerous, and 
yearly increasing. Those particularly adapted for the table 
have been greatly improved the past few years. It is an in- 
dispensable dish for both the rich and the poor, in its season. 
By a knowledge of its culture, and attention to repeated sow- 
ings, it may be had from J une to November. The following 
three varieties are the best for the purpose : 

Extra Early. — This is the earliest variety ; grains large and 
pure white, cob small, ears short; if planted from the 15th to 
25th of April, it will be ready about the same days in June ; 
but when planted about the loth of May, ifc will be ready about 
the 1st of July, if the weather is favorable. — Fine flavored. 

Adams 1 Early — very similar to the above, but a few days 
later. Grains not so full though equally as fine flavored. 

Sweet, or Sugar. — There are two varieties of this ; the one 
that has eight rows of grains on the cob is the best. It re- 
mains some time in a mi]ky state, and therefore the same sow- 
ing is fit for the table a longer period. The grains of the 



62 



BUIST'S FAMILY KIIC.IExV GARDENER. 



Sugar Corn, when in a dry state, are small and shriveled, and 

are consequently easily distinguished. 

Culture.— The ground must be in good condition ; if not 
make it so, or put a shovelful of decayed manure or rich 
compost into each hill. Plant in hills, three feet apart, live 
or six grains in each ; when up, allow three only to stand for 
a crop ; hoe deep and frequently, drawing some earth to the 
stalks when about a foot high. If they incline to sucker, or 
make side shoots, break them olT. Plant every two weeks till 
August. This crop can be used to fill up all vacancies in the 
ground, and to follow other crops as they come off in June 
and July. 

INDIAN CRESS, OR NASTURTIUM. 

Tropaolum magus. — Capucine, Fr. — Kapuzinerblume^ Grer. 

The botanic name is derived from a Latin word signifying 
a warlike trophy. This idea might have originated with bot- 
anists from its shield-like leaves and its brilliant, golden, hel- 
mefc-shaped flowers, pierced and stained with blood. It is a 
native of Peru and Chili, where there are many curious and 
fanciful varieties, though none so beautiful as the Common 
Nasturtium that has been cultivated for nearly three hundred 
years. Its gay colors enliven the gardens of the rich and the 
poor. The flowers and leaves have a sharp and warm taste, like 
Garden or Curled Cress ; and are frequently used in salads. 
The seeds, when gathered young and green, on a dry day, and 
pickled in vinegar, form an excellent substitute for Capers, 
and indeed are preferable. 

Culture. — It is properly treated as an annual plant, and 
sown for the benefit of its seed, flowers and foliage, as well 
as for ornament. Sow the seed thinly, in rows or patches, an 
inch deep, about the end of March or first of April. It is not 



JERUSALEM ART. CHOKE. 



63 



particular in regard to either soil or situation ; they will thrive 
almost any where, if the ground is rich. The plants will run 
from five to fifteen feet, and require stakes or trellis-work to 
climb upon. They are excellent for a blind, to cover any dis- 
agreeable object There are several varieties of yellow, gol- 
den, or crimson color. The yellow stands the severity of the 
sun better than the crimson. 



JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE. 

Helidnthus Tuberbsus. — Poire de Terre, Fr. — Erde Apfel, Ger. 

The tuberous-rooted Sunflower, as the name implies, is a 
native of South America, and has been cultivated for two cen- 
turies. Like many other new vegetables, when first intro- 
duced, it was extolled extravagantly. It was baked in pies, 
with dates, ginger, raisins. &c. : and of course amalgamated with 
such good things that it could not taste indifferently. When 
boiled in the simple way of Potatoes, however, they will not 
form a very palatable dish. The modern way of serving them 
up, is to boil them till they become tender, when after being 
peeled and stewed with butter and wine, they are considered 
pleasant, and taste similar to the true Artichoke. They are 
not so good as Potatoes, but, as a crop for feeding hogs or 
cattle, they are more productive. 

Culture. — They are propagated and planted in the same 
manner as the Potatoe, any time in March, and will grow in 
any soil, even under trees. They are best fresh planted every 
year, and require good, light ground. The stems grow to eight 
or ten feet high, and have the appearance of the Sunflower. 
They are in use from October to April. Any time in Novem- 
ber, a quantity may be lifted and packed away in sand or earth, 
for Winter use : or caver the ground with rough litter, to keep 



D4 



BUIST'S FAMILY K TOKEN GARDENER. 



out severe frost, and they can be lifted as required. The frost 
does not injure the tubers. 

LEEK. 

Al'lium P or rum — -For react. Fr. — Lav.ch. Ger. 

This is a branch of the Onion family, a native of the north 
of Europe ; is very hardy, and from its mild qualities is prefer- 
red by many families to the Onion. History records it as having 
been cultivated many hundred years. The Welsh indulge in 
Leeks on their patron St. David's day. in commemoration of a 
victory which they obtained over the Saxons, which they at- 
tribute to the Leeks they wore by order of St. David, to distin- 
guish them in battle. There are two varieties, the 

London Leek, so called from the preference given to it in the 
London market. It is a strong growing variety, with the 
leaves all round alike. 

The Scotch, or Flag. — So denominated from the preference 
given to it in the Edinburgh market, and also from the leaves 
being on two sides of the plant only, flag-like. They are both 
equally good, and either of the sorts is sufficient for a family. 

Culture. — There is no part of the garden too rich for Leeks. 
They require the best ground, well worked and manured the 
full depth of the spade. Sow the seed thinly on a small bed of 
light, rich ground, in drills six inches apart, and half an inch 
deep : rake it evenly, and give it a beat with the back of the 
spade. When they come up. they should stand an inch apart : 
if thicker, thin them out, "When grown to about eight inches 
high, they will be of sufficient size to plant out. — As we have 
remarked, choose the best ground, draw thereon drills a foot 
apart, and as deep as the hoe will go. When ready, the plants 
are to be taken up from the seed-bed. Shorten their roots to 
about an inch from the plant, and cut two inches or more from 



LETTUCE. 



65 



the extremity of the leaves. Both these operations are done 
for convenience and neatness in planting. Dibble them in 
the drills eight inches apart, and as deep as the plant will ad- 
mit of. not to cover the young leaves pushing from its centre. 
Choose moist or cloudy weather for the operation : but if dry, 
give the plants a copious watering. Hoe the ground frequently, 
to keep down weeds : and as the plants are observed to grow, 
draw the soil around them. By good culture, they will be 
fit for use early in October. On the approach of severe frost, 
lift sufficient for Winter use, and store them away in earth or 
sand. 



LETTUCE. 

Lactitca sativa, — Laituc. Fr. — Gartensalat, Ger. 

This plant is named from the Latin word lac : on account of 
the milky juice with which it abounds. It is considered very 
healthy, especially in the Spring of the year. There are some 
of the family natives of all the warm and temperate latitudes 
of the globe. The leading cabbaging kinds were originally in- 
troduced from Egypt ; those of upright growth, from the 
Island of Cos : hence the name of Cos Lettuce is applied to all 
the sorts that approach that character. Some of the varieties 
have been extensively cultivated for opium preparations. The 
plant is allowed to shoot up till just on the eve of flowering, 
when the top is cut off in the afternoon. In thirty-six hours 
there is a brown crust found on the wounded part of the stem, 
which is carefully collected. The stem is again cut, and re- 
peatedly, till the plant ceases to yield its milky substance. 
It is unquestionably the best of the salading vegetables. 
Many varieties are cultivated in Europe, and not a few in this 
country : but several kinds grown there are not adapted to our 
high and dry temperatures. The following cabbaging sorts 
are the best cultivated at the present time. 



66 



buist's family kitchen gardener. 



Brown Dutch. — Two kinds, the White and the Yellow Seed- 
ed : the latter the best : both very hardy: resists the severity 
of the Winter without any protection. 

Earli' Cabbage or Itliite Butter, a very early sort : does ex- 
cellent for forcing on hotbeds : the leaves of a pale green : the 
heads white. 

Royal Cabbage, a large, dark green variety ; two weeks later 
then the former. There are two kinds of it— the White and 
the Black Seeded, the latter prefer ed. It does very well for 
a Summer salad, while the early Cabbage goes to seed without 
heading. 

Drumhead is a very fine, large variety, does well in Summer, 
and forms a noble plant for a dish. 

Green Hammersmith is a very hardy variety, heads well, 
and matures early. 

Victoria is a new Cabbage Lettuce, that promises well, 
having large heads of a white, crispy nature. It appears to 
withstand the heat. We have only grown it one season. 

White Silesia, though not so delicate in flavor as some of 
the former, yet is very acceptable in the heat of July, when 
nearly every other variety fails. It is early, hearts well, and 
very crisp. 

Large Indian. This appears to be the only variety we have 
that is perfect through the whole heat of Summer : in fact, 
it requires heat to make it eatable, for in May and June it is 
much too coarse for the table, along with the other fine sorts. 

The following are Cos Lettuces, all very celebrated in Eu- 
rope, but with us they do not appear to retain their reputation. 
Our long. dry. warm Summers, prevent their coming to a crisp 
head : in fact, many of them never head, unless very early in 
the season. They should be tied up like Endive, eight or ten 
days before they are cut. unless they show a disposition to head. 

Whtie Cos. of strong, upright growth, stands the heat well 
and if tied for ten days, blanches beautifully. 



LETTTCE. 



6: 



Brow/i or Bath Ccs. a very hardy sort, can be cultivated 
under a wall or fence all Winter, when it will come to use verj 
early in Spring. 

Paris Cos. a fine variety, grows strong and upright, very 
crisp, and one of the best of the Cos. It is improved by tying 
up eight or ten days before it is cut. 

Green Cos. a very hardy sort, rather coarse-growing : but 
when tied up a few days beftr^ being cut. it becomes much more 
tender. 

Cfltuke. — The soil best adapted for the growth of Lettuce, 
is a light, deep. rich, sandy loam, well worked and manured. 
The roots are very fibrous, and go in search of food to a great 
depth and breadth. Where there are only a few sorts culti- 
vated, they will require a continued succession of sowings, but 
where there is a proper variety, four or five sowings in the year 
will keep the table well supplied. It is one of the few vege- 
tables that can be had in perfection throughout the year, by 
judicious management. It is a crop too that can be introduced 
between other crops, without any disadvantage, by transplanting 
from the seed-bed on every suitable occasion. For sorts that 
will be in use in June. July, and August, sow Early Cabbage. 
Koyal Cabbage. Drumhead. Silesean. and Indian, on a bed of 
rich, light ground, as early in March as the season will admit. 
Sow a few of each agam about the end of April. Sow Early 
Cabbage. Koyal Cabbage, and Victoria, in August, and about 
the fifteenth of September a general sowing of all the sorts. 
The Brown Dutch, and other heading kinds for planting in 
drills, to stand out all Winter, as recommended for Early York 
Cabbage : the Early Cabbage Lettuce, for heading in frames 
during Winter : and the other sorts to be transplanted into 
boxes, very closely, about the middle or end of October, and 
protected with boards or shutters during Winter, giving plenty 
of air every mild day. See that they are not preyed upon by 
slugs : if so. a dusting of air-slacked lime or soot will destroy 



68 



buist's family kitchen gardener. 



them. They should be planted out as early in Spring as the 
reason will admit. The varieties of the Cos Lettuce can only 
be successfully grown by sowing late in September, protecting 
them in Winter, and transplanting them out eai iy in Spring. 
The seed should always be sown thinly and evenly, on fresh- 
dug ground, in very shallow drills, nine inches apart. Rake it 
smoothly, and if in dry weather, press it gently with the back 
of the spade. When they have grown an inch high, thin them 
out to two inches apart. After they begin to touch each other, 
give another thinning, when they can be transplanted, if re- 
quired, into other compartments for a crop. • As it is an arti- 
cle of every-day demand, a few seeds should be sprinkled in 
with the more permanent crops, such as Beets, Onions, Carrots, 
&c. Lettuce are impatient of being transplanted during 
warm weather ; the late Spring sowings and the early Fall sow- 
ings should therefore be made where they are intended to grow, 
and thinned out as they advance in growth. I need scarcely 
add that hoeing deep and frequent is indispensable to secure 
a good crop. In this vicinity there are hundreds of acres of 
this crop planted out in October and November, on the south 
side of deep drills, drawn by the hoe ; after the ground has 
become hard, these drills have straw strewn lightly across 
them during Winter ; early in Spring it is removed, when the 
plants grow rapidly, head early, and are off the ground in time 
to plant it with Egg-plants and Tomatoes, thereby having two 
very profitable crops off the ground in one year. 

Should it happen by accident or neglect, that there are no 
plants for Spring crops, recourse must be had to sowing on a 
slight hot-bed in February. When the plants are up, thinned 
out, and properly hardened, they are planted out about the end 
of March, or first of April, and treated as before directed. 
Lettuces may be had in perfection throughout the whole Winter, 
■ if planted in a sunk pit (see p. 15) or frame, early in October, 
and protected from frost by glass sash and straw mats, giving 
plenty of air during sunshine, but never allowing a draft from 



MARJORAM. 



69 



front to back, if there be severe frost. The earth should be 
within eight inches of the glass, to keep the plants as near the 
light as possible. The best sorts are the Early Cabbage and 
Royal Cabbage. Plant them eight to ten inches apart, each 
way, and alternately opposite. Give occasional watering, pick- 
ing off all decayed leaves. If the Winter proves very severe, 
surround the frame or pit with dry leaves from the woods ; 
this precaution can nearly always be conveniently adopted ; 
leaves being everywhere plentiful, a store should always be at 
hand. In all the southern States, every variety of the Let- 
tuce is perfectly hardy, and can be grown in perfection from 
October to May. The varieties of Cos heart freely, if tied as 
recommended for Endive, and are greatly benefited by that 
simple operation. 



MARJORAM. 

Origanum. Majorana. — Marjolaine, Fr. — Marjoran^ G-er. 

Sweet Marjoram is a native of the South of Europe. It 
has a pleasant odor, and a warm, aromatic, bitterish taste. It 
is used for seasoning soups, and other matters of cookery, and 
considered a wholesome ingredient, and beneficial in nervous 
complaints. There are two varieties, the Sweet and the Pot 
Marjoram ; the former, an annual, and the latter an herba- 
ceous plant, or a plant that lasts from year to year. 

Culture. — Marjoram seed is of the very smallest descrip- 
tion, and has to be sown early in April. On ground finely 
prepared, make a mark along the line with the point of a stick, 
merely to show where the seed is to be dropped, which do 
very thinly and evenly, then cover up with the back of the 
rake. The rows should be ten inches apart. As soon as the 
plants appear, thin them out to two inches apart. When the 
plant offers to bloom, cut the stems and dry them in the shade. 



70 



BUIST's FAMILY KITCHEN GARDENER. 



When dry, tie them in paper bags, and hang them up in a 
dry room for use. Let a few plants ripen for seed. 

Pot Marjoram, or Winter Mar joram, is propagated by divid- 
ing the roots early in Spring and planting it in beds. Cut it 
when in full bloom : dry in the shade ; wrap it up. and pre- 
serve it for Winter use. 



MELON. 

Cucumis Melo. — Melon, Pr. — Meime, Ger. 

The Melon, in some character, is to be found in all tropical 
countries, but the finest varieties are supposed to have come 
from Persia and Affghanistan. It has been cultivated in Eu- 
rope nearly four hundred years, and in the south of that con- 
tinent, in its season, it constitutes the principal part of the 
food of the lower classes, proving that it is both wholesome and 
nutricious. The flesh of a well-grown melon is delicious. It 
is eaten with ginger, pepper, sugar, salt, or as fancy and taste 
dictate. Its nature is cooling. There are many varieties in 
culture, which, with artificial aid, can be brought to perfection, 
but when left to unassisted nature and exposed to heavy rains 
and scorching suns, the number is very limited indeed. They 
are confined to the indifferent, or improved culture and purity 
of three or four sorts. 

Musk Melon, so called from its peculiar scent, is nearly 
round ; color, a yellowish green : rind smooth, and the fruit 
very slightly ribbed. It used to be extensively cultivated 
for its productive qualities, but now gives way to better va- 
rieties. 

Early Cantaloupe takes its name from a village near Rome, 
where it has been grown for many centuries, and from thence 
distributed to this Western world. There are many varieties 
of it readily distinguished from the former by having small 



MELON. 



71 



warts on the rind, the flesh greener, and more firm. — Well fla- 
vored. 

Netted Citron is an oyal fruit, roughly netted all over, of a 
pale yellowish green when ripe ; grows to a good size 5 from 
two to five pounds : flesh, green, firm, juicy, and high flavored, 
This variety commands the highest price in Philadelphia mar- 
ket, and its quality depends on its genuine purity. Seeds 
should be two years old before sowing. 

Rock Melon. — Fruit of an oval, round shape, rind green, 
with large white warts or rocky appearances thereon, hence 
its name. Flesh solid, of a yellowish color, rich and melting ; 
in size, equal to the former. 

Culture. — The Melon is cultivated in a similar manner to 
the Cucumber. The soil and treatment that grows the one 
will grow the other, though the Melon prefers a dryer atmos- 
phere, and is more liable to die off after heavy rains than the 
former. To have it in perfection, it should not be grown in 
the vicinity of Squashes, Gourds, Pumpkins, Cucumbers, or 
any variety of the family, or it will invariably become im- 
pregnated with the inferior flavor of its congeners. In a 
small Garden, it is not possible to grow all these sorts without 
contamination. It is therefore better to plant all Squashes 
and Pumpkins in the field. A bed twenty-two feet square 
will grow sixteen hills, each six feet apart. Mark the spaces 
by the line each way : dig out the earth one foot deep and two 
feet wide, spreading it about : then fill up the holes thus made 
six inches higher than the surrounding ground, with rich, light 
compost — very old, rotten manure, sand, and garden earth, in 
equal parts, will do. Into these conical heaps or hills, about 
the first of May, sow eight or ten seeds, half an inch deep and 
a few inches apart. As soon as the plants have made two 
rough leaves, thin them out, leaving four only to each hill. 
When each have made four or five rough leaves, pinch the 
point of each shoot to make the plants branch out and fruit 



72 



buist's family kitchen gardener. 



earlier; this is what gardeners call 'Hopping,' 1 which strength- 
ens the vines. Draw earth around their stems to support 
them from the wind ; when they begin to run, they require no 
further assistance, except it may be to thin out the shoots 
where they become too crowded and confused. Hoe and stir 
up the soil, and keep clear of weeds. As no garden should 
have a foot square of lost ground, crop between these hills. 
Valentine, or Snap-Short Beans, is very suitable. Three 
sorts sown now will be off the ground in June and July, be- 
fore the Melon vines occupy the whole. This plant, with the 
Cucumber, is very subject to be attacked with a yellow striped, 
or black bug. We are not yet aware of an infallible remedy, 
but a dusting of soot or wood ashes will retard their progress 
till the plants begin to grow freely. If they are thus attacked 
as soon as the vines show their rough leaves, it would be im- 
prudent to top the plants, as it stops their growth, and the 
insect would then entirely overcome them. 

Melons may be forced, in the same way as directed for the 
Cucumber, when it can be conveniently done, and to my taste 
it is a preferable plant ; the finer sorts, that will not bear the 
open exposure of rain and heat, should be sown, such as the 
G-}»een-fieshed and Rock Melons. Some of the latter, and as 
fine as any I ever saw, took the first premium at the New J ersey 
Horticultural Society, at Princeton, the past season. They were 
from the garden of A. H. Stevens, Esq., of Hoboken, and did 
great credit to the grower. When grown under glass, the 
sash should have a very thin mat thrown over it, from eleven 
to two o'clock, and from the middle of April till the fruit is all 
cut ; and although the leaves may droop, it is not always a sign 
that the plant is in want of moisture. It is not advisable to 
pour the water round the neck of the plant — a very common 
practice and a very inconsistent one ; the extremity of the 
roots and leaves are the absorbing organs of the plant : sup- 
ply the former by watering the soil, anc the latter by frequent 



WATER-MELON. 



7$ 



sprinklings with the syringe, or from the rose of a watering 
pot. 

The red spider is a pest to the Melon. It is a very minute 
red insect, quick in its movements, generally on the un- 
der side of the leaf. When observed, lift up the vines and 
turn them over, exposing the under surfaces of the leaves ; then 
give them a syringing with soap suds. One or two such doses 
will destroy it, when pure water may be more frequently used 
for it is too dry an atmosphere that genders this pest of the 
gardener. 

Within a few years past, Europe has resounded with the 
praise of very extraordinary Melons from Persia and Cabul, 
so much so that we were induced to import two varieties to 
test their merits in this climate. One variety was very small, 
about half a pound weight, of a fine, smooth, round form, flesh 
quite yellow and high flavored, but too small for general 
culture. The other was opposite in every character, being 
large, oval, with a rough, white rind, flesh reddish-yellow, looked 
very tempting, but tasted much like a Pumpkin. Each seed 
cost sixpence sterling. 



WATER-MELON. 

Cucurbita Citrullus. — Melon d'eau, Fr. — Wasser Melon, G-er. 

w The Water Melon is purely a tropical fruit, wisely adapted 
to the wants of the inhabitants of those countries, who greatly 
appreciate it for its refreshing coolness, and delicious flavor. 
It is a grateful beverage in warm weather. It is no way nu- 
Mcious, but its seeds are considered a valuable remedy in uri- 
nary complaints. There are several sorts cultivated extensively 
in New Jersey, even to thousands of acres, for the supply of 
the Philadelphia and New York markets, viz. : 

Long Green, Mountain Sprout, Carolina, Spanish, and occa- 
sionally a White variety — all fine sorts, though we prefer the 
4 



74 



EUIST'S FA3I1LT KITCHEN GARDENER. 



Spanish. It is round, very dark green, haying a verj thin rind, 
with a bright red flesh, and black seeds. It does not grow so 
large as some others, but is more rich and sugary in flavor, and 
commands a better price. It was introduced to this country 
about eighteen years ago. The seed of the first that I saw. 
was brought from Portugal, by a supercargo of one of the 
ships of the late Henry Pra+t, Esq., of Lemon Hill, who freely 
distributed the seeds to his friends. 

Culture. — They require a light, sandy soil, not oyer rich. 
Plant them in hills as directed for Melons, giving them more 
room, as their vines extend much further. The seeds should 
be two years old before planting. If they are wanted of a 
large size, three or four fruit from each plant will be sufficient, 
and when one fruit only is taken, they will grow to from twenty 
to thirty pounds weight each. It will injure the flavor of the 
fruit if they are grown near to other varieties of the Melon. 



MINT, 

Mentha Viridis.—Menilie* Er. — Miinze* Ger. 

There are several varieties of Mint, but the one under con- 
sideration is commonly known as Green Mint, or Spear Mini, 
from its long-pointed leaves. In its green state, it is used in 
sauces, salads, and frequently in soups. When dried, and taken* 
as a tea, it is very efficacious in stomach complaints, far sur- 
passing any alcoholic preparation. 

Culture. — It is a perennial plant, and propagated by parting 
the roots in Spring. It will grow in any kind of soil where 
moisture abounds, and if in a sheltered spot, will come forward 
more early for use. If required to be cultivated extensively, 
draw drills two inches deep, and one foot apart, drop therein 
small pieces of the root, six inches apart cover them with ths 



MOREL. 



7 5 



soil : and give the ground a good top-dressing every year with 
manure, or rich earth. A bed will keep in bearing five or six 
years. When new plantations must be made, it is cut when 
the shoots are a few inches high. If the plants are wanted for 
drying, they must be allowed to grow till they are in full bloom, 
when they, are to be cut. and the stalks laid out thinly to dry, 
in a shed or airy out-building. When they are perfectly dry. 
and have a brittle feeling, tie them up in a paper to keep till 
wanted. When green Mint is very desirable, it can be taken 
up and planted in boxes, and forced in a hot-bed with very little 
trouble. In two weeks the plants will be fit to cut. Two 
years ago. I was forcibly struck with the abuse of this very 
healthful herb. My physician prevailed^pon me to pay a visit to 
one of the Springs, in the interior of this State, to try the ef- 
fect of its waters upon my system, then greatly reduced by an 
accident. To me. every table appears meagre, unless it has a 
very liberal supply of good wholesome vegetables. On this oc- 
casion, the table of mine host ;: appeared to have very homoeo- 
pathic dishes of my favorites. When my strength began 
to recruit. I sallied forth to the garden to observe the cause, 
when behold it contained almost exclusively Green Mini ! I 
could not conceive what extensive use they made of it. till on 
being more familiar with the establishment. I observed that it 
was carried in armsful (as if for feeding cattle) to the bar- 
room, where it was liberally saturated with brandy, ice, and 
sugar, to foster an appetite for the sons of Bacchus. May 
that Boniface live to learn that Cabbage. Beans, and Peas, are 
better for health and happiness than mint-juleps ! 



MOREL. 

Phalli esculentus. — Champignon. Fr. — Essbare. Ger. 

This vegetable is a native of this country, and closely rela- 
ted to the Mushroom, from whbh it is distinguished by the 



76 



buist's family kitchen gardener. 



cap being hollow within, and adhering to the stem by its base, 
and latticed on the surface with irregular sinuations. The 
height is about four inches. It is in perfection, and will be found 
from May to September, in wet banks, in woods, and in moist 
pastures, and should not be gathered when wet with dew, or soon 
after rain ; if gathered dry, they will keep several months. 
They are used either fresh or dried, as an ingredient to heighten 
the flavor of gravies, ragouts, &c. 

Culture. — We are not aware that this vegetable has been 
introduced into garden-culture, like the Mushroom^ but there 
can be no doubt of the#ttempt being attended with success. 
The spawn should be collected in June, and planted into dung- 
beds, or ridges of soil differently composed, in order by expe- 
riment, to come to the best mode of cultivation. Those who 
have practised the growing of Mushrooms, will find no diffi- 
culty in cultivating the Morel or Mascul plant. 



. MUSHROOM. 

Agancus campestris. — Champignon cultive, Fr. — Pitz, Grer. 

The Mushroom has afforded a wide field of speculation for 
botanists and naturalists, who have disputed of its perfect or 
imperfect character — the peculiar method of its propagation 
and growth — and its close assimilation in taste to animal matter. 
The growth and formation of this humble plant is the most 
remarkable in the vegetable kingdom. 

They are extensively used for making Catsup, esteemed as a 
pickle, and when stewed with rich gravies, are considered by 
some very delicious. They are extensively cultivated in Eu- 
rope, particularly in Britain, where they are grown all the 
year round. They have also drawn the attention of the more 



MUSHROOM. 



77 



scientific gardeners in this vicinity, within these few years past, 
and basketsful have been bronght before the Pennsylvania 
Horticultural Society in our Winter and Spring exhibitions. 
The genuine Mushroom is found in Autumn, on rich, old pas- 
tures. It has a small, round, brownish-white head, of a deli- 
cate pink color underneath : the stem is generally from two to 
three inches high. There are frequent accounts of deaths 
caused by this vegetable, attributable either to excess in eating, 
or to a want of care in selecting the pure article, which grows 
invariably in open fields — such as are overtopped by trees, or 
growing in the shade, must be avoided ; also those that grow 
rapidly, five or six inches high, bladder-like, or have a bright- 
red, fine-wrought net-work underneath, and of a disagreeable 
scent ; those possessing such characters, are bad and even 
poisonous. 

Mushroom Spawn. — We copy from the transactions of the 
London Horticultural Society, the following approved method 
of making Mushroom Spawn : 

" In June or July, take any quantity of fresh horse-drop- 
pings (the higher fed the better) mixed with short litter, one- 
third of cow's dung, and a good portion of mould, of a loamy 
nature : cement them well together, and mash the whole into 
a compost. Spread it on the floor of an open shed, to remain 
till it becomes firm enough to be formed into square flat bricks ; 
which done, set them on edge, and frequently turn them till 
half dry ; then with a dibble make two or three holes in each 
brick, and insert in each hole a piece of good old spawn, about 
the size of a walnut," or the spawn which consists of fine white 
threads that may be found where mushrooms are growing in 
pastures. " The bricks should then be left till they are dry. 
This being completed, level the surface of a piece of ground, 
under cover, three feet wide, and of sufficient length to re- 
ceive the bricks : on which lay a bottom of dry horse-dung, 
six inches thick : then form a pile, by placing the bricks in 
rows, one upon another, with the spawn side uppermost, till 



78 



buist's family kitchen gardener. 



the pile is three feet high : next cover it with a small portion 
of warm horse dung, sufficient in quantity to diffuse a gentle 
glow of heat through the whole. When the spawn has spread 
itself through every part of the brick, the process is ended, and 
the bricks may then be laid up in a dry place for use." Mush- 
room Spawn, made according to this direction, will preserve its 
vegetative power many years, if well dried before it is laid up ; 
but if moist, it will grow and exhaust itself 

Culture.— —Of late years, the cultivation of this luxury has 
become so simplified, that it is in the power of every farmer 
and cottager to grow the article for use or sale. Any time 
in October or November, collect from the stable daily the fresh 
droppings, throw them into a heap, which prevent from heating 
violently, by frequent turnings, and spreading it out thinly, 
defending it from rain or water of any kind. When the quan- 
tity of one, two, or three loads (according to resources) has 
accumulated, and has lain in a heap two or three weeks, (which 
time it will most likely require for all the parts to get into an 
equal fermentation), as soon as it is observed that the fiery 
heat and rank steam of the dung are gone off, it is ready for 
rise. Mushrooms can be grown in cellars, sheds, stables, or in 
any other such building, where they will be protected. Where 
it is intended to cultivate them permanently, a covered shed 
will be found the most convenient place in which to perform 
the necessary work. For this purpose a dry situation should be 
chosen, the more sheltered the better, on which to build a shed of 
sufficient dimensions. A bed four feet wide, and twelve feet 
long, will give an ample supply for a moderate-sized family. 
The shed may however be erected ten feet wide and sixteen feet 
long, giving space for working materials, and two beds if re- 
quired. The shed should run from north to south, having a 
close roof, and weather-boarded. With the exception of four 
apertures as windows, to be covered with shutters, this erection 
might be made ornamental having a portion of it for a tool 



MUSHROoM. 



79 



house. Having marked out the space for the bed. throw out 
. the earth about six inches deep, laying it regularly at the side, 
and if good, it will do for earthing the bed. In the trench, 
lay four inches of good dung, not too short for forming the 
bottom of the bed ; then lay on the prepared dung, about six 
inches thick, regularly over the surface, beating it down firmly 
with the back of the fork. Put on other six inches, and so on 
till eighteen or twenty-four inches thick. In that state it may 
remain ten or fifteen days, during which time the heat should 
be examined about the middle of the bed, by thrusting a small 
stick in several places, and when found of a very mild heat, 
the bed may be spawned. The spawn bricks for this purpose 
should be broken regularly into pieces about an inch and a half 
or two inches square. These pieces are best put in with the 
hand, raising the dung up a few inches with the one, while with 
the other the spawn can be laid in and covered. This ought 
to be done in every six inches op the surface of the bed. If 
the sides of the bed are made of a sloping form, they can also 
be spawned. After spawning, level the surface with the back 
of the spade, beating it gently, after which it may be earthed. 
Procure that of a sandy, loamy nature, if from a pasture, so 
much the better. Break it up and make it fine, laying it on 
two inches thick. Level it very neatly with the rake, and beat 
it closely and evenly. When the whole is finished, the bed 
must be covered, a foot thick, with good clean straw or natural 
hay. over which lay mats or canvas in severe weather. Ex- 
amine the bed every few days, and if the heat increases, di- 
minish the covering of straw, which is better than to take it 
off altogether. In about five weeks, if the bed be under proper 
cultivation, Mushrooms will make their appearance, and in two 
days more they will have grown to a sufficient size for use. 
Some people cut them, but it is decidedly better to give them 
a gentle twist in the ground and draw them out, filling up the 
cavity with a little fine mould, gently pressed in level with the bed. 
This method of gathering is much better than cutting, as the 



80 



BUIST's FAMILY KITCHEN GARDENEPw. 



part left generally rots and breeds insects, particularly the 
wood-louse, which is very destructive to Mushroom beds. 

Sometimes it happens that a bed suddenly ceases to be pro- 
ductive. This may arise from various causes, but most frequent- 
ly from the cold state of the bed in Winter, or a dryness of soil. 
In the former case, an additional covering should be given, in 
the latter, water in a milk-warm or tepid state should be ap- 
plied moderately, for two or three mornings in succession. 
After each watering leave the covering off for about an hour. 
Soft water should be used for the purpose. In Summer the 
beds will require watering every two days, though in Winter 
they may not need it in as many months. A good bed will be 
productive for three months, though it may occasionally happen 
to wear out in half that time. 

From these observations, an ingenious mind can make a 
Mushroom bed in a multitude of situations, all obtainable where 
there are cellars, stables, or sther buildings. We would not 
despair even in the open air during Winter, covered with plenty 
of litter, under a few boards to ward off cold rains. In Spring 
and Summer, any quantity may be grown in this way. 

It will be observed, in the cultivation of every other vegeta- 
ble we either sow or plant some evident material of reproduc- 
tion : but in the cultivation of Mushrooms, weneitLe- >ow nor 
plant any antecedent production of seed, plant, or root, yet it 
is certain that mushrooms are reproduced by a process in which 
the dung of certain animals forms the chief instrument, and 
on the goodness and strength of that ingredient, in whatsoever 
way it is made, chiefly depends the crop. We are aware that 
this vegetable appears in certain situations without any appa- 
rent cause, though we feel fully satisfied that there are inert 
ingnedients that only require a combination of influences to 
produce certain results, and these results in nature are uner- 
ring. 

The young Horticulturist should never desist from making 
moderate and- well-considered experiments, Let him never 



MUSTARD. 



Si 



suppose that perfection has already been attained. Acumen 
and perseverance should be pre-eminently conspicuous in the 
gardener, who has many vicissitudes by weather, insects, and ac- 
cidents to encounter, and he should be prepared with resources 
to resist them all. 



MUSTARD. 

Sindpis alba et nigra. — Moutarde, Fr. — Senf, G-er. 

Mustae-d Seed was first obtained from Egypt, and has been 
known and cultivated for many hundreds of years. It is ex- 
tensively used both in its natural state and manufactured, and 
is considered a wholesome condiment, in whatever way it is 
taken or prepared. It assists digestion, warms the stomach, 
and promotes appetite. In the Spring, in its green state, when 
mixed with salads, it is very refreshing, and ought to be ex- 
tensively cultivated for that purpose. In Europe it is vastly 
appreciated, but with us little attention is given to the subject. 
There are two varieties. The White is principally used for 
garden purposes, and the seed used medicinally. We can speak 
practically of its beneficial effects in constipation of the bowels. 

One or two table spoonsful a day, sipped from half a tum- 
bler of water, and swallowed whole, is a great relief in dyspeptic 
cases, and many have been completely cured by its constant use. 
The London or Durham Table Mustard is*made from this 
species. Black Mustard is of the same flavor, and considered 
of equal efficacy with the White. From the flour of this variety 
the American mustard is made. 

Culture. — This salad is cultivated in the same manner as 
recommended for Cress, at all times of the year — sowing every 
week or two, either in beds or drills, or for early use in hot- 
beds or boxes, in the windows of a warm room. The seeds 

should be covered very slightly, and frequently watered, a* 

4* 



82 



BUISrS FAMILY KITCHEN GARDENER. 



moisture is indispensable to its growth. It should always be 
cut when about an inch high, using a sharp knife, and cut- 
ting close to the ground, holding the tops in one hand whilst 
the knife is used with the other. They should be carefully 
washed from earth or sand, allowing them ti be as short time 
in the water as possible : neither should they be gathered long 
before using, for their flavor would be thereby impaired. As 
much of this seed is generally required, a portion should be 
sown very early to produce it. A bed three feet wide and 
twenty feet long, having the plants four or six inches apart, 
will produce a sufficiency of seed for every domestic purpose. 

NEW ZEALAND SPINACH. 

Tetragdnia expdnsa — Epinard aete. Fr. 

T^e great advantage this Spinach possesses over the other 
varieties is that of supplying a crop of leaves in the dryest 
weather, when crops of other sorts have failed. From its ra- 
pidity of growth, a few dozen of plants will afford a supply 
during its growing season. If a few leaves of Sorrel are boiled 
with it. the flavor is improved. 

Culture. — It is a spreading, towering plant, growing in a 
circular form, attaining the height of four or five feet. Sow 
the seed very thinly, in rows one inch deep and two feet apart, 
about the first week of April, in an open, rich piece of ground. 
Hoe freely and keep clean of weeds. The seeds, in a green 
state, make an excellent pickle, for which alone it is worth cul- 
tivation. 



NASTURTIUM. — See Indian Cress. 



CNION. 



88 



ONION. 

Allium cepa. — Oignon, Fr. — ZwbieL Ger. 

T :te Onion was anciently called Cepe, on account of the 
toir'i of its bulb. It was also termed Unio. because the bulb 
never aivlded : hence the English name Onion is derived. It 
is supposed to be a native of Spain, though its native country 
and date of Introduction is not certainly known. No vegeta- 
ble is more ^^nsively known and cultivated than the Onion. 
It has been the common seasoning for meats and soups of all 
nations, from the earliest period to the present — gracing the 
table of all classes of society, in some form or other. For 
flavoring, it is indispensable in cookery. Besides imparting 
its flavor to other preparations, it affords considerable nutri 
ment. and is considered to possess medicinal properties of con 
siderable value. However, when improperly taken, and in too 
great quantities, it loses its virtues and becomes unwholesome 
and indigestible. Used in its crude state, it often remains in 
the stomach forty-eight hours before being dissolved by the 
gastric juice, and in this state has been know::, to produce 
spasms. They are most agreeable, when boiled a»d served up 
with sauce or drawn butter. When cooked in this way. they 
are greatly improved by the water being changed when they 
are about half-boiled. Pour on the second water from a boil- 
ing kettle, throwing in a little salt. Tvhen Onions are used 
a 3 stuffing, in combination with other substances, they should 
first be chopped very small and thrown into boiling water, and 
boiled for about five minutes ; they should then be put in- 
to a colander to drain, and pressed till not a drop of water 
remains. If they are then mixed with the other ingredients, 
they can be eaten without any inconvenience or injury to the 
stomach. Roasted and fried Onions should be avoided by 
persons of weak digestive powers. There are a multitude of 
varieties in cultivation ; but the most useful are the following 



S4 



BUIST'S FAMILY KITCHEN GARDENER. 



Strasbwrg, or Yellow Onion. Large oval, inclining to flat ; 
very hardy, keeps well and of strong flavor. 

Silver Skinned. — White, flat, medium size. Very generally 
used for pickling. 

Red Dutch. — Dark red, medium size, inclining to flat, keeps 
well, very hardy, extensively grown in the Eastern states for 
export, strong flavor. 

Portugal, very large, globular, mild flavor ; does not keep 
well. 

Potato, or under-ground Onion ; produces a quantity of 
young bulbs on the parent root, which should be planted in 
rows, in March, three inches deep (below the surface) and six 
inches from bulb to bulb, eighteen inches being left between 
the rows. Keep them clear of weeds, and earth them up like 
potatoes, as they continue to grow. They will be fully grown 
about the first of August, when they may be treated as other 
Onions. 

Welsh or Tree Onion. — Much grown in cold countries, 
where the Onion does not seed freely. This variety shoots 
up a stem on which small bulbs grow in place of seeds. These 
pea-bulbs are kept till next year, when they are planted and 
produce very good roots of considerable size, while the stem 
gives a farther supply for next year's planting. There are 
other varieties : such as Globe, Jameses Keeping, Tripoli, Read- 
ing, and Deptford ; but none of them, for this climate, sur- 
pass or even equal those described. 

Culture.— The soil in general cannot be too rich for this 
esteemed vegetable, and however good it may be, it requires 
more or less manure for every crop. It is a plant with a 
number of roots, that ramify to a great extent, absorbing nour- 
ishment from every particle of the soil. In regard to rotation 
of crops, the Onion is an anomalous case : for the same ground 
has been known to produce yearly, for nearly half a century, 
heavy crops. I have seen instances of twenty-two successive 



ONlOxW 



85 



crops of Onions from the same ground, it having had every 
season a supply of cow, hog. or barn-fowl manure. There are 
hundreds of acres grown in this vicinity for shipping to the 
southern market. The system pursued is to manure the ground 
heavily, with the best of dung. Dig or plow the ground early 
in Spring ; level it well with the rake or harrow ; then with 
the Beet rake draw drills about one and a half inch deep and 
about nine inches apart, leaving a space of about fifteen inches 
between every three drills, called an alley. Plant these drills 
with young Onions, about the size of Beans, and do not cover 
them. They will be green in a few days. Hoe frequently 
and keep clear of weeds. In June, dig the alleys and plant 
them with late Drumhead Cabbage and Savoys for a Winter 
crop, or large York for a Fall crop. The* Onions will be ripe 
in July, when they are pulled and cleared off. The soil must 
then be dug up and well broken, to allow the Cabbage crop to 
extend and grow freely. This is the system pursued by our 
market gardeners ; but one error they all commit, and in con- 
sequence are not able to keep full-grown Onions over Winter, 
the bulbs rotting and decaying, from the drills having been 
drawn too deep, and pulling the crop two or three weeks too 
soon. My method is, after the ground has been well dug and 
raked even, to roll it before the drills are drawn, which must 
not exceed half an inch deep, being merely a mark whereon to 
lay the sets. Hoe to keep down the weeds ; lift the crop after 
the tops are fullv dried off ; expose them in the sun a few days, 
to harden them ; take them to a shed and spread them out 
thin, to dry ; or tie them up in ropes and hang them up for 
use ; by this treatment they will keep perfect throughout the 
whole Winter. 

Sowing Seed. — The general method is to sow the seed very 
thickly, in shallow drills, early in April. The bulbs grow to 
the size of Peas or Beans by the middle of July, when they 
are lifted and put away in an airy loft, to keep till next Spring 



86 



buist's family kitchen gardener. 



They are then planted out in drills for a full crop, as above. 
Onions may be grown from the seed in one season, fully large 
enough for culinary purposes, and where the soil is of a deep 
mellow loam, on a dry bottom, which is most genial to the 
growth of this bulb, they will grow equally as fine as those 
that have taken two seasons to mature. For this purpose, sow 
the seed very thinly, (half an inch apart is thick enough, and 
an ounce of seed will be ample supply for a family) — in drills 
nine inches apart, and as shallow as they possibly can be drawn. 
Tread the seed in with the foot, to make it firm. Sprinkle a 
very small portion of fine earth over the seed, and finish by 
raking it evenly. Within three weeks the Onions will make 
their appearance, when, if many weeds rise among them, they 
must be cleared with a small hoe, observing not to hoe deep, 
for the more the Onion rises out of the ground, it is the finer, 
and keeps better. As soon as the plants are three inches high, 
thin them out to two inches apart. If the weather is moist, 
the thinnings may be transplanted into other ground. They 
too will attain a full size, but observe, in planting, to put the 
roots only under ground. The plants being now two inches 
apart, as they grow, every alternate one should be pulled for 
immediate use, either for soups or salads, leaving the crop four 
inches apart in the row. Nothing further will be required 
until they are pulled up for drying, except the keeping down 
of weeds, which must be strictly attended to. 

In moist seasons, Onions are apt to grow^what is termed) 
thick-necked : in such cases they should, about the end of J uly, 
be gently bent down with the handle of the hoe. or the head 
of a wooden rake, which will check their rapid growth, and 
cause them to bulb sooner. About the middle of September, 
sow a row or two of Onion-seed for early Spring use. before 
any other green salading or seasoning can be obtained ; the 
plants will be four inches high before Winter sets in severely, 
when they should have a little rough litter thrown over them, 
or a row of Spruce branches stuck among them for protection. 



ONION. 



87 



They will come very acceptably into use in March and April ; 
or a few of the large Onions can be planted in September; 
they will divide into several roots or scallions, and can be 
drawn for use as above, and a few more can be planted early 
in Spring, to draw for the same purpose. 

Seed Saving. — It is very important to have good seed, there- 
fore, select the most uniform roots in September, and plant 
them fully under ground, in rows one foot apart, and two feet 
from row to row. Let the ground be in excellent condition, 
for the stronger the plants, the finer the seed, which will be 
ripe in July or August, according to the weather. As soon as 
the heads begin to open and show the black seeds, they must be % 
cut off and put into a sheet to dry. Clean it out well when 
perfectly dry — all seeds keep best in bags hanging in an airy 
room, and Onion seed will be perfectly good for three years. 
To grow Onions for pickling, sow the seed thinly in a bed in 
March or April, at the same time that the general crop is planted. 
No further culture is required, except hand-weeding, as their 
thickness in the bed will prevent their growing large, and will 
* cause them to come to maturity sooner. They should be lifted 
in clear sunshine weather, as it improves their color. The 
White or Silver-skinned is the sort usually grown for this pur- 
pose. 

The Onion crop is an interesting portion of garden ing to 
every good housewife. She is ever solicitous that it should 
be full and certain. As it requires to be powerfully ma- 
nured, we throw out the following hints for her special use. 
As we have intimated. Onions will grow on the same soil year 
after year, without any deterioration, provided it is liberally 
supplied with nutrition : for this purpose the following ingredi- 
ents, always plentiful about every house, and generally thrown 
to waste, can be most beneficially applied. Soot spread over 
the ground, either before or after the crop, or thinly over the 
young plants — urine thrown cer the ground during the Winter 



88 



BUIST'S FAMILY KITCHEN GARDENER. 



season — soap-suds, any time in the Fall or Winter, in like 
manner. These are not mere theoretic ideas ; they are practi- 
cal facts, which can be illustrated by any person who has the 
materials at command. I have seen Guano used to this crop, 
both with bad and beneficial results. At the rate of four hundred 
pounds to the acre, the Onions were greatly improved in size, 
though not in their keeping qualities. Applied at the rate of 
eight hundred pounds to the acre, the roots of the crop suffered, 
the plants got yellow, and did not fully recover their appearance. 
This manure should always be used in a liquid state, and 
about the strength of twenty-five pounds to a hogshead of wa- 
ter, to be applied after having stood twenty-four to forty-eight 
• hours — urine can be used in the same manner, after being re- 
duced with six parts of water. Every good householder who 
cultivates a garden, should have a large cask, in some retired 
corner, to form a deposit for the refuse 6f the wash-house, 
which can be reduced with a part of water, and applied to all 
vegetable crops in time of need ; or where the soil is not rich 
enough, the plants can be fully watered with it, in the evening, 
once a week while they ire in a growing state. 

OKRA, OR OCHRO. 

Hibiscus esculentus. — Gombo, Fr. 

This plant has been introduced to our notice and table from 
the West Indies, where it is cultivated to some extent as a 
vegetable. The green seed pods are put into soups, or stewed 
and served up with butter. It is becoming very popular with 
us, and grown to a great extent by some gardeners for sup- 
plying the market. 

Culture. — The seeds are sown thinly, on dry, warm soil, in 
shallow drills two feet apart, about the same time as the Lima 
Bean. Cover tha seeds lightly. Sometimes they come up 



PAPwSLEY. 



and are out off with the frost ; if so, plant again. An ounce 
of seed will supply any family. After the plants are up. thin 
them out to nine inches apart : hoe freely, and draw a little 
earth to the stems as they continue to grow. They will reach 
the height of five feet in good soil. The pods must be gath- 
ered when about an inch and a half long and quite green. As 
soon as they become brown and hard, they are useless for the 
kitchen. 



PARSLEY. 

A'pium Petrosdinum. — Persil, Fr. — Peter silie. Grer. 

The Garden Parsley is a biennial plant, a native of Sardinia, 
and is a very useful and pleasant vegetable : esteemed for 
many qualities besides that of garnishing. Its seasoning fla- 
vor, for soups and stews, is very agreeable to many. It also 
counteracts the smell of the breath after eating Onions. It 
may be preserved for seasoning, by drying it till crisp, in Sum- 
mer ; then rub it up fine between the hands, and put it away 
* in a bottle for Winter use. 

Culture. — The Curled variety only should be cultivated. 
It is more beautiful as a garnish than the plain, and requires 
very little more attention to keep it pure. Seed growers are 
not gen er all} 7 particular enough with this simple article : they 
ought, before the plants go to seed, to pull up all those that 
offer to be plain, reserving only those that are beautifully., 
curled. Sow it in drills half an inch deep, early in April. 
These drills may form an edging round any compartments of 
vegetables, or along the walks. It will remain from four to 
six weeks before it vegetates, and, what is rather remarkable, 
seed four years old will vegetate sooner than seed of the pre- 
ceding year. As soon as the plants get three or four inches 
high, thin them to six inches apart ; cut down about a third 



90 



buist's family kitchen gardener. 



part at a time, by which means a young stock will be kept 
constantly for use. Should any of the plain-leaved appear, 
root it out. An ounce of seed will suffice for any family. 

To have fresh, green Parsley, at all seasons, should be the 
aim and ambition of every gardener, and it is rather a matter 
of surprise that our markets and tables are not more liberally 
supplied with this valuable Winter garniture. Keep it only 
from severe frost, and it will grow the whole Winter. For 
this object, select a warm spot of ground, light and rich, four 
feet by six ; sow it early in the season ; treat the plants as di- 
rected above; cut them all over in September, surround the bed 
early in November with boards, and cover with mats or shut- 
ters ; if glass can be obtained, so much the better. By this 
process a sufficient supply in the severest weather will be al- 
ways obtainable. If a frame and sash are out of reach, pro- 
cure some branches of Spruce, Pine, or Cedar, and cover the 
bed during December, January, and February. It will grow 
tolerably well under such protection. 



PARSNEP. 

Pastinaca Satzva. — Panais^ ¥r.—Pastinake, Grer. 

The Parsnep is a biennial plant ; that is, a plant that lives 
two years, seeds, and dies, like the Onion, Carrot, and Tur- 
nip. It is a native of Europe, and is a profitable and desirable 
root for family use in Winter and Spring, being both whole- 
some and nourishing, and should be cultivated abundantly in 
every kitchen Garden. Parsneps contain a considerable portion 
of sugar, and are more nourishing than either Carrots or Tur- 
nips. They make an excellent marmalade. Wine also, to 
some extent, is made from them. They are principally used 
at the table with boiled meats, though they make a very ex- 
cellent dish after being boiled, sliced thinly, and dipped into 



PARSNEP. 



a thin batter of flour and butter, or eggs, and afterwards fried 
brown. In my native country. Scotland, they are beaten up 
with potatoes and butter, and eaten with milk, making a very 
agreeable cottage dish. In an agricultural view they are val- 
uable, for milch cows eat them with avidity, and yield an 
abundance of milk of rich and pleasant flavor, being preferable 
to the Carrot or Turnip for the purpose, which impart their 
taste to the milk. There are three varieties of the Parsnep, 
two only of which are desirable. 

Guernsey JParsnep, an improved variety of the Common, 
grows large, and in deep light soils will attain the length of 
two feet. 

Sugar j or Hallow Crown. — This is the best variety for 
Garden culture. It is of more uniform growth, has a smoother 
and cleaner tuber, and is equally as hardy and better flavored 
than the former, from which it is easily distinguished by the 
leaves arising from a cavity on the top, or crown of the root. 

Culture. — Any soil suitable for Carrots will be found fa- 
vorable for the Parsnep. Deep sandy loam is their delight. 
If it is not naturally so, it should be dug twenty inches deep, 
as directed for trenching, page 8. Sow any time from March 
to May, in drills, one inch deep and fourteen inches from drill 
to drill. Scatter the seeds thinly, and cover neatly and evenly 
with the rake. As the plants grow, thin them out occasionally 
and finally, till they stand eight inches apart in the row. In 
three weeks the seeds will appear, from which period till the 
leaves cover the ground, the soil must be stirred with the hoe 
every week or two. In October the leaves will begin to turn 
yellow, which is a certain sign of their maturity. They may 
then be dug up for use, as they are wanted. They will stand 
any severity of frost, so that it is necessary only to lift as many 
as will supply the family till the frost leaves the ground. They 
should be lifted their full length, and not cut with the spade, 
which injures them. Store away a ?ufncient supply for Winter 



92 



HOSTS FAMILY KITCHEN GARDENER. 



use. in time of severe frost, leaving a balance in the ground 
for Spring supply, and some to go to seed. The seed keeps 
only two years— an ounce will supply a family. 



PEA. 

Plsum Sativum. — Pois. Fr. — Erbse. G-er. 

The Pea is of great antiquity as a culinary vegetable, and 
is familiar in the domestic cookery of every country. It is an 
annual, the seed being sown and matured in the same season, 
and in some varieties in an incredibly short space of time. 
They are considered a pleasant and nourishing food, having 
the character of purifying the blood and correcting scorbutic 
humors. In flavor and quality there is as great a difference 
in the Pea as in any vegetable with which I am acquainted, 
though, from observation, cultivators nd even cooks have little 
knowledge of the quality and flavor of the different varieties 
in cultivation. Some, when merely plain boiled and seasoned, 
are of themselves a luxury : others require more assistance 
from the culinary art to make them palatable. It is not our 
object to detail the various modes of cooking, yet we confess 
that we have seen them mis-bo Had. The earlier sorts take from 
half an hour to three quarters : the Marrow-fats, from fifteen 
to twenty minutes, according to age, To have their flavor per- 
fect, they should be picked, shelled, and cooked, all within three 
or four hours. "When kept over night their quality is greatly 
impaired. Some prefer them boiled with a bunch of mint : 
t e only seasoning admitted by others, is a little salt in the 
water. 

We will not detail the numerous sorts we grow or are ac- 
quainted with, but the following will be found most useful 
for market or family supply. They are those most noted for 
their quality, and are arranged in the order in which they 
come to maturity. 



PEA. 



93 



Prince Albert. — A dwarf grower, pods and pea small, four 
days earlier than any variety we have yet tried, good flavor. 

Extra Early. — A very early Pea that has been cultivated in 
this vicinity about fifty years, and was exclusively, for a long 
period, in the possession of a Mr. Cooper, near Camden, N. J., 
who. I am informed, obtained the seed from a German emigrant. 
It is the sort most extensively cultivated for our market, and 
for that purpose is preferable to any other, the crop being 
nearly all ready at once, when the ground can be cleared for a 
crop of Beans, or late Tomatoes. 

Early Grotto. — A very superior family early Pea, both in 
size and flavor ; three or four days later than the former, and 
continues a much longer time in bearing. 

Early May. — A fine early variety, good flavored, and very 
productive. 

Early Frame. — A very celebrated Pea in Europe, where its 
hardiness makes it a general favorite. It is an abundant bearer 
and an excellent family Pea. 

Early Charlton. — A very hardy early Pea, which comes in 
well as a secondary crop. 

Bishop 's Dwarf. — A very remarkable dwarf variety, requiring 
no stakes nor support of any kind, except the earth drawn to 
its stems. It is very prolific, but does not do to sow late, as it is 
subject to mildew. It can be sown in rows eighteen inches apart. 
Draw the earth more to one side of the plants than the other, 
which will lay them all in one position, from which the crop 
can be more conveniently gathered. 

The above varieties, with the exception of Bishop's Dwarf, 
should be sown about three feet apart. Give them all stakes 
or rods, for the double purpose of protecting them from the 
wind and to support the vines. With stakes the crop can be 
more readily gathered, and the plants will mature every pod. 
A quart of early Peas will sow four drills, each thirty yards long. 

Royal Dwarf. — This succeeds the early varieties. It grows 
between three and four feet high. 



94 



buist's family kitchen gardener. 



Blue Marrow. — A fine large Pea, very prolific and well fla- 
vored, sown about first of May, will be fit for the table about 
the fourth of July. 

White Marrow. — Very generally cultivated, but is far sur- 
passed by the 

Matchless Marrow, being larger, equally as productive, and 
superior in flavor ; grows five feet high. 

Woodford Marrow. — A very green Pea, and boils without 
losing color. It makes the most beautiful dish of green Peas. 
and is an excellent bearer. 

Surprise, if sown about the twentieth of March, will be fit 
for the table about the twelfth of June. A very excellent late 
Pea, of large size, and superior flavor. 

Sugar Pea. — So called from its flavor. It is usually boiled 
in the pods whole, only drawing the thread from the back of 
the pod before it is put into the water. It can also be cooked 
in the usual way : a very sweet Pea ; grows five feet high. 

Knight's Dwarf Marrow. — This is called Dwarf, though it 
grows five feet, and should be sown in drills at least that dis- 
tance apart. 

Knight's Wrinkled Marrow. — There are several varieties of 
this, all of first-rate excellence. Though the ripe seed are 
peculiarly wrinkled and very untempting, yet the green fruit 
are exceedingly fine flavored. 

Scimitar. — A large Pea and abundant bearer ; takes its 
name from the shape of the pods ; it is well flavored. Sown 
about the first of May : it will be ready about the sixth of July. 

New Mammoth. — A very tall-growing Pea, requiring rods 
six feet high ; a great bearer, of large size, and perhaps the 
very best flavored Pea grown. The only objec tion to it, is the 
quantity of ground it occupies. They should be planted two 
inches apart in the drills, and six feet from row to row. A 
quart will plant three rows, each thirty yards long. If sown 
about the first of May, it will be ready about the 12th of 
July 



PEA, 



95 



British Queen, — A wrinkled marrow Pea. of large size, and 
luscious flavor, grows five to six feet high : a new Pea of great 
excellence. 

There are twenty or twenty-five other varieties of the Pea, 
but to go into a detail would be merely repeating what we 
have already said. They are generally mere varieties of those 
given, and so closely assimilated, that a name constitutes in 
most instances the only difference. The above list embraces 
varieties that become fit for the table in from six to ten weeks ; 
and by repeated sowings, judiciously made, the garden will be 
supplied with Peas from May to frost. We believe that there 
is no vegetable in the catalogue so universally agreeable as 
the Pea. We have never heard any one say they could not eat 
well-cooked green Peas, and it should be an emulation to 
have them always at least in their season. 

Culture. — The soil in which an early crop of Peas is sown, 
should be light, dry, and well sheltered. I have had great 
success with early Peas, by sowing a row along the south or 
east side of a board fence. This is done as soon as the frost 
is rat of the ground — in some seasons about the first of March, 
while in others as late as the 19th. Such was the Spring of 
I S 46. yet I had Peas fit for the table on the 17th of May. 
This is no criterion of the earliness of the Pea, for in 1844 I 
sowed Peas on the 30th of April, which were fit for the table 
on the 10th of June, being within six weeks, and on heavy, 
loamy soil. Ground for Peas should be well manured the 
previous year : if it is heavily manured for the crop, it causes 
them to grow more to straw than seed. As soon as they are 
two inches high, draw earth to them, and when they have 
grown a few inches more, repeat it again. When they are 
eight or ten inches high, this earthing greatly protects the vines, 
and keeps the wind from driving them about. After the final 
earthing has been completed, stake them. The stakes, or 
branches more properly, should be of a fan-form, and put in 



96 



buist's family kitchen gardener. 



the ground in a slanting direction. On the other side of the 
row reverse the position of the stakes, which affords the vines 
more protection and security. \Yhen they show their first 
blossoms, it is a good plan to top off the point of the vine 
It then ceases to grow, and throws all its strength into the 
pods, by which they swell off more readily. Early Peas 
should be sown in drills two inches deep, and the seeds about 
one inch apart in the drills and two and a half feet from drill 
to drill. If stakes are scarce, two rows of Peas can be sown 
six inches apart and then two rows the same way. four feet 
between each pair of rows. This is the general system, though 
I do not see what are its advantages. If the same quantity 
of seed be put into one row. it appears evident the product 
will be the same : but I have not satisfactorily tried the ex- 
periment. The height to which Peas grow very much depends 
upon the season and soil. Early sorts, in a dry Spring, will 
grow two feet, while in a moist season they will grow four. 
Many of the Marrow Peas in some seasons will grow six feet, 
and in others ten. The spaces between the rows of early Peas 
can be planted with Lettuce or Beans. The late kinds, where 
the rows are four to six feet apart, can be planted with early 
Celery — the vines will partially shade the young plants till 
they have taken root. The late Peas can also go on ground 
whence early Lettuce or Spinach has been taken. If the kinds 
we have named be sown from early in Spring to the 10th of May. 
a crop of young Peas will be in constant succession from May 
to the end of July. August, and the two first weeks of Sep- 
tember, in this vicinity and South, will be in want of green 
Peas, which is very liberally supplied with the varieties of 
Beans. Early Peas may again be sown about the loth of Au- 
gust, If the weather be dry. soak the Peas twenty-four hours 
in water before sowing. Indeed this is an excellent practice 
with all the tribe. "When the ground is dry. the drills should 
have water poured into them before being planted, the seed 
will then grow at onoe, and not be in the least retarded, should 



PEA. 



97 



the season continue dry. It will greatly prevent mildew if 
the Peas are watered in continued droughts. 

The following mode of staking the tall varieties of the Pea 
is both cheap and simple, and possesses many advantages. 
Procure a number of stakes, in length according to the height 
of the Peas, and drive them into the ground on each side of 
the row, at the distance of six feet ; pass a small line of cotton, 
or Onion-twine, along the poles, taking a turn on each. As 
the Peas advance, raise the next line higher, and so on, till they 
have attained their full height. Two lines will be enough, as 
the one line can be raised over the other. The air can circu- 
late better through the vines than by the common method of 
staking. 

Peas can be successfully cultivated by artificial means, and 
a good crop produced either in pits or very gentle hot-beds. 
For this purpose Bishop's Early Dwarf is most suitable. Sow 
in pots or boxes, rather thickly, and place them close to the 
glass till they are sufficiently strong for transplanting, when 
fchey may be carefully taken out, with the roots as entire as 
possible, and planted in frames or pits, from front to back, in 
rows fifteen inches apart, and two inches from plant to plant. 
Give plenty of air by day, should the weather admit of it, but 
keep them well covered at night. It may be observed, that in 
whatever way Peas are raised for forcing, they should invariably 
be transplanted. The temperature should be from 40° to 60°. 
When they appear dry, moderate waterings will be necessary, 
more especially in time of bloom, and when the pods are set- 
ting and swelling. Those who pay some attention to the cul- 
tivation of this very luscious vegetable, can very readily have 
them on the table from May to November in all ordinary sea- 
sons. 



S 



97* 



PEPPER. 

Capsicum Annum. — PimenU Fr. — Spanischer Pfeffer, Ger. 

There are several varieties of the Pepper cultivated for 
pickling and kitchen purposes — its natural locality is very 
generally diffused over all tropica 7 countries, requiring in arti- 
ficial culture a very wa m locality, rich light soil, and careful 
cultivation. The green pods or small berries of all the varie- 
ties are used for pickling ; the ripe fruit is dried and used in 
small portions as a seasoning of the hottest quality. 

Bell, or Sweet. — Large bell-shaped and most esteemed for 
pickles, the skin being thick and more pulpy than any of the 
others. 

Tomato, or Flat. — About the size and shape of the Tomato, 
is also very generally used for the same purpose ; it is of a 
hotter nature than the former. 

Cayenne. — Fruit small, round, tapering, long, or curved, 
and of the very hottest quality. We have seen about twenty 
varieties of the Pepper ; their fruit, when ripe, from about 
the size of Peas to the size of Melons, and all of a bright red 
or bright yellow color. 

Culture. — Sow a small portion of seed, thinly, half an 
inch deep, on a hot-bed or in a pot in a warm window, any 
time in March or April and transplant in May or June, on good 
ground, one foot apart, and eighteen inch N s from row to row. 
In a mild climate, sow at the same period in the open ground, 
in a small bed of light soil, and transplant when three to four 
inches high during moist weather, or water freely in time of 
planting. As they grow, hoe frequently, and earth up the 
stems similar to Cab )age. 



98 



BUISrS FAMILY KITCHEN GARDENER. 



POTATO. 

Solanum tuberosum. — Pomme de Terre, Fr. — KartoffeL G-er. 

This universal vegetable is a perennial, well known upon 
every table. It is a native of South America. In the vicinity 
of Quito, they are known under the name of Papas. They 
appear to have been known in Virginia as early as 1584. and 
were at that period cultivated by the Colonists. It is very 
amusing to observe the remarks of early writers upon their 
character, some saying they are only fit for a swine," while 
others recommend them as a delicate dish. It is a species of 
a very extensive family of plants, inhabitants of every part of 
the globe, all of a forbidding aspect, and not a few of them of 
the most deadly poison, while others are being extensively cul- 
tivated both as food and luxury to man. Among thfem are the 
Egg-plant and the Tomato. We are now arrived at a period 
of the history of the Potato when there appears to be a universal 
scourge or blight passed over the crop, in every country where 
it is cultivated — universal in its effects and as universally un- 
accounted for, some attributing it to one cause, while others 
take an altogether opposite view. It has always and does still 
appear to me to be an atmospheric disease, a kind of Cholera, 
as I ten led it two years ago, which has threatened the past 
year nea/ly to extirpate the whole crop. We now predict that 
it has come to its height, and another season will produce a 
more healthy crop. Cultivation may promote health, though 
it will not avert the calamity. New soil in the past year has 
been more genial to the production of sound tubers, than old 
cultivated fields, though the former has not been entirely ex- 
empt from disease. The vines have always been affected after 
a few dull, cloudy, moist, warm days ; these, succeeded by 
strong sunshine, made visible the first blighting effects. To 
cut off the stems close to the ground, as soon as the disease 
appeared, has invariably benefited, and in many instances, en- 



POTATO. 



99 



tirely saved the tubers, and we still hope that this root, which 
has been for many years a luxury to the rich and bread to 
the poor, will yet continue to improve, as it has done during 
the past hundred years. On the quality of the Potato, as 
used for food, a few words will suffice. It is the most nutri- 
tious of vegetables, where it agrees with the constitution, which 
is almost invariably the case, excepting some few instances 
where there is a spare or thin habit of body. To those 
who take much exercise in the open air, it is excellent food, 
and yields a very considerable amount of nourishment. 

Too little attention is generally paid to the dressing of it ; 
for an indifferent potato becomes good when well cooked, and 
a superior one gains every attraction that an appetite can de- 
sire. 

An untinned iron saucepan is preferable to any other for 
boiling potatoes. In preparing them, they should never be 
peeled, or much of their nutritious quality is lost. They only 
require to be washed clean, and at farthest to be slightly 
scraped. After soaking in water for an hour, put them into the 
saucepan, with cold water sufficient to cover them : when it 
begins to boil, let a cupful of cold water be put in, which will 
check the boiling, and allow time for the potatoes to be done 
through, without their being in any danger of breaking. 
When they are sufficiently soft, which may be known by try- 
ing them with a fork, pour off the water, and let the pot with 
the potatoes continue for a short time over a gentle fire, and 
the heat will cause any remaining moisture to evaporate ; when, 
after being peeled, they will be fit for the table. By this me- 
thod of cooking, if strictly adhered to, they will be found 
more palatable than under any other. 

Various States and places have their favorite sorts. To 
enter into a general detail of their merits, would only produce 
conflicting opinions, for we are certain that what may do well 
in one State or country would fail in another. Mercer and 
Foxite for Pennsylvania, Pink-eyes and Mercer for New-York, 



ICS 



buist's family kitchen gardener. 



Winnebagoes and Blue Jackets, for more eastern countries, 
but in no part of this country do we find the English. Irish, or 
ScDtch Potatoes to succeed. We must ook to our own exer- 
tions and industry in raising sorts from seed. If we wish 
to excel in quality, there is a very extensive field for im- 
provement, and one that we can easily operate upon every 
year. 

The Mercer, in this vicinity, is the universal favorite. The 
genuine sort is of a longish, flat, kidney form, with a liberal 
quantity of eyes, and pink-colored on the tapering end. Those 
covered with knotty protuberances are not considered so pure 
as those of a uniform shape. It is very early, a good bearer 
and a good keeper. 

Fox's Seedling, for garden culture and earlmess. will be found 
preferable to the former. It is a round, white Potato, of good 
size and excellent flavor, when eaten from the ground, but 
will not retain its superior qualities for Winter use. 

Foxite. — A yellowish-white Potato, with the eyes much sunk 
It is a great favorite in some situations and soils, as a late va- 
riety. It is an excellent keeper, and well flavored. 

No vegetable varies more in quality in different soils than 
this ; for a sort that will be pleasant and well-flavored in one 
soil, will be coarse and rank in another. One fact may be ob- 
served, that white Potatoes do best on light soils, while red 
will be most productive on clayey or retentive soils. 

Culture. — The first matter to be considered is the soil, 
which, if of a sandy loam, is better calculated for the potato 
than a heavy or very clayey soil. Though any soil will do. it 
must be observed that the roots produced in a light, are more 
dry and sweeter than those grown in a heavy soil. The finest 
potatoes are grown in a new, light, rich loam. If the soil is 
heavy, the manure used should be composed of well-decayed 
leaves, horso manure, and ashes, well blended and mixed to- 
gether before using. A good crop can seldom be raised if this 



POTATO. 



lOi 



article is sparingly laid on. Two or three inches thick is a 
good manuring, but if that quantity cannot be obtained to 
cover the whole ground, put it three or four inches thick in 
the drill only whereon the sets are laid. It is not our purpose 
to enter into a labored dissertation on the culture of this escu- 
lent on a large scale, or we could easily show that it is but 
very imperfectly understood. Our object at present is garden 
culture, and our remarks are intended to apply to that branch. 
A gardener or farmer must be very low in the scale of his 
profession, unless he knows what crop is to follow another ; 
and it is a point very necessary with potatoes that the ground 
be roughly dug before Winter, to have the soil well ameliorated 
before planting. Presuming that the ground is clear whore 
the late Cabbage crop was taken from, dig it deeply and turn 
it up roughly for the action of the Winter ; then, early in Spring, 
lay on your manure, and as soon as the ground can be worked, 
open a furrow the full depth of the spade. Lay therein three 
or four inches of dung, on which plant the sets with the eye 
upward, ten inches apart, eighteen to twenty inches from row 
to row. Dig over the ground and plant as you proceed. Sets 
for planting should be cut at least one week before planting, 
and spread out thin on a floor to dry. Potatoes of medium 
size can make from four to six sets. There is a great difference 
of opinion in regard to the size of the potato to be used for 
the purpose of planting, some carefully selecting the largest, 
others preferring the medium, and some retaining the smallest. 
We never put any regard upon the size of the tuber, though 
we are careful in observing the size of the set. In the event 
of their being small, we do not cut them ; if of medium size, 
we make four to six sets ; and if large, eight sets may be made. 
Again, the point of the potato is considered more early than 
the root-end, and some only use those eyes that are in the 
middle. We have never deemed this advantage worth much 
attention, though for a few very early planting we give prefer- 
ence to those eyes nearest the point of the tuber. As soon 



i02 



buist's family kitchen gardener. 



as they appear above ground, give frequent and deep hoeings, 
drawing earth carefully to the stems as they advance in growth. 
We assuredly detest the appearance of a weed among this 
crop, and frequently mourn and almost weep over fields of the 
rankest weeds where the undergrowth is potatoes. What can 
be expected from such slovenly husbandry — gardening we will 
not call it. The crop is thereby injured in quality and quan- 
tity, and not only that, but frequently disease ensues, which is 
attributed to the Potato degenerating. What an idea ! Degene- 
rate ! no, never ! All seeds, not only of this vegetable, but of 
every other, should be changed every three years at farthest : 
and we would change the kind of soil, or the Potato for seed, 
every two years. A change from light soil to heavy, or the 
reverse, will tend to benefit the quality, and if this cannot be 
effected, change with some of your distant friends, or make 
purchase from other States. We have said that early Potatoes 
should be planted as soon as the ground can be worked, which 
is from the 1st to the 20th of March. A few may then be 
planted in a very sheltered place, where they would not be 
much exposed to late frosts. The main crop should be planted 
about the 15th to the end of April. If left till a later period, 
they are very liable to be affected by the droughts of Summer, 
and take on an Autumn growth, which invariably injures 
the quality of the tuber. The maturity of the crop is readily 
known by the wh^ening of the stems, though they are fit for 
the table before that period. As soon as they are what is 
termed half-grown, a few may be lifted for use. Those intended 
for seed are considered better adapted for the purpose if they 
are not perfectly ripe, yet I dcubt if this opinion is confirmed 
by experience. Writers on this subject too frequently reiter- 
ate the expressions of their predecessors. This is very obser- 
vable among writers on horticultural and agricultural sub- 
jects. The experience of Abercrombie, Speechly and Knight 
is retailed as new matter for the present age, (advanced in 
every other science,) and is admitted as being as undeniable 



POTATO. 



103 



as any rule of Euclid. When passing through Ireland, that 
hot-bed of Potatoes, we observed them transplanting the stems 
that had grown six or eight inches from one part of the field 
to another, in the same way that Cabbages are planted, and I 
was informed the crop from those were fully as good as from 
the sets planted early in the season. This operation can be 
performed in a country where there is a great deal of moist- 
ure, or during very cloudy, moist weather, but in dry arid 
temperatures it would be a doubtful practice. 

Artificial Culture. — Various are the me mods by which 
Potatoes are forced, such as in frames, pits, hot-beds, under 
glass, or under shutters and mats. Whichever of these con 
veniences may be at hand, let there be from twenty inches to 
two feet of good manure in the bottom, over which place 
eighteen inches of good soil. Plant thereon your sets of 
Fox's Seedling-, and cover them with four inches of earth. It 
is necessary that when finished the materials should be within 
six or eight inches of the glass. Sow over all some Early 
Short-top Scarlet Radish, which will be off before the Potatoes 
can be affected by their growth. To prevent their becoming 
long and spindling, give air on every favorable occasion, when 
there is sunshine, from ten to three o'clock, protecting them 
carefully at night, A few Lettuce may also be planted be- 
tween the rows. They can be cut off as soqp as they are in 
the way. This is making the most of every inch of ground, 
and every industrious gardener knows the value of time and 
space. 

New Sorts from Seed. — We can never have Potatoes en- 
tirely suitable to our climate till we obtain such from seed — an 
operation rarely if ever attended to properly. For these ex- 
periments the field is very large, and certain to be crowned 
with successful results. A single apple, as they are called, 
collected in September or October, will produce two dozen 
5* 



i04 



buist's family kitchen gardener. 



new kinds ; and if even half a peck of apples were collected, sep- 
arate and wash the seeds from the pulp, dry them, and wrap 
them up in strong paper till Spring : about the middle of 
April, prepare a bed of fine earth, draw shallow drills thereon 
six inches apart and a quarter of an inch deep ; sow the seeds 
thinly, and cover lightly with very fine earth. They will come 
up in two or three weeks. When they are two inches high, 
thin out a portion, lifting them very carefully with a trowel, and 
transplant them into a piece of well prepared ground, four 
inches apart and eight inches from row to row. Choose a 
moist, cloudy day for the purpose, hoe them freely, and earth 
them up a few times during the season. Treat the bed in 
like manner. In October, the roots will furnish a supply of 
small Potatoes, which must be taken up and a portion of the 
best preserved in sand during Winter, to be planted next 
Spring in the usual way. After they have had the ensuing 
Summer's growth, in October their tubers will have attained 
a sufficient size to determine their properties. It will be ne- 
cessary to consider, not only the flavor of each variety, but the 
size, shape, color and fertility : also the earliness or lateness, 
rejecting all that have not every quality combined, for only 
such are worthy of permanent culture. It will thus be seen 
that with very little care and a little labor, new varieties may 
be produced and proven in the short space of two or three 
years. 

Potatoes intended for keeping should be fully ripened be- 
fore being taken up. When going through the process of lift- 
ing, drying, and storing, they should be handled with caro, 
not filled up and emptied down as if they were as many stones. 
After having gone through this stone-casting process, nearly 
every Potato shows its effects when brought to the table, be- 
ing covered with bruised marks in proportion to their rough 
treatment : whereas, if they are managed properly, every tuber 
would be as sound as on the day of its removal. Dry cellars, 
free from frost, are the most appropriate places of storage, and 



PUMPKIN RAD.SH. 105 

if they hare a covering of sand they will not lose a particle of 
their Savor. If sand or dry earth is not used, give them a 
covering of straw, to prevent the air from giving the outside 
Potatoes an acrid taste. Towards the end of January and Feb- 
ruary, they should have a regular turning, to prevent their 
sprouting. If an}- have begun to grow, pick off the growths. 
They will require this operation repeated every few weeks 
while they are in the cellar. If this is not carefully attended 
to, and the Potatoes allowed to grow to any extent, they will lose 
much of their farinaceous quality. It is also very essential to 
turn over frequently those intended for seed, to prevent a pre- 
mature growth. The greater the vegetative power of the set, 
the finer and stronger will they grow. 



PUMPKIN, OR POMPION. 

Cucurbita. var. — Courge, Fr. — Kilrbis. Ger. 

We cannot think of admitting this vegetable into the pre- 
cincts of a garden where there are Melons, Cucumbers, and 
other kindred plants. It would mix with and contaminate the 
quality of the more valuable sorts. If, however, there is an 
opportunity to plant a few in the field, among the Corn, we 
would recommend among the many sorts, the Cashaiv, as be- 
ing the best. There is a variety of a very coarse nature cul 
tivated in the field, called the Mammoth, which frequently at- 
tains the enormous weight of two hundred and fifty pounds, 
and is only fit for pigs or cattle. 



RADISH. 

Rdphanus Sativus. — -Rave. Fr. — Rettig, G-er. 

The native country of this well-known salad plant is sup- 
posed to be China. It is valued by us for its agreeable pun 



106 



buist\s family kitchen gardener. 



gency and grateful relish when mixed with salads, or eaten 
raw with bread and butter. They are supposed to possess me- 
dicinal qualities, abounding with a penetrating, nitrous juice, 
rendering them a good antiscorbutic. It is not admitted that 
they contain much nourishment. They should, however, 
when eaten, be very brisk and sprightly, always young; 
not tough, thready, nor overgrown. The young leaves make 
an agreeable mixture with Lettuce, Mustard, &c, as a green 
salad. There is an immense quantity of this article consumed 
in the Spring and early Summer season. It is a never-ending 
crop. Being of a rapid growth, it is up and consumed before 
the crops of Beets, Carrots, &c, make any headway, so that it 
occupies no ground as a crop by itself. There are many vari- 
eties, among which we select the following as most desirable. 

Scarlet Short-top. — This is a long, tapering Radish, of a good 
scarlet color, with very short leaves. It is preferred by all 
gardeners, as it requires much less room than those with large 
tops, and is also the very earliest variety, when obtained pure. 

Eouiiy Salmon. — Very similar to the former, though not of 
so bright a color, and is a few days later. It succeeds it very 
conveniently, and is of the same shape. 

Olive-shaped. — This variety appears to be between the Scar- 
let Short-top and the Red Turnip Radish, partaking of both 
shapes (being a long oval) and maturing for the table between 
those two varieties. 

White Turnip-rooted. — Very appropriately named, and 
highly esteemed. It succeeds those already described in ma- 
turing, and will bear the heat better, without becoming hard 
and stringy. 

Red Turnip-rooted. — In shape and size like the White, ma- 
tures at the same time, and when grown with it, makes a beau- 
tiful variety on the table. 

Long White Portugal. — A very beautiful variety, in the 
shape of the Early Short-top. It does not come so soon as 
that sort, but makes a decided contrast with it. 



RADISH. 



107 



White Summer. — A large, long, oval variety ; cultivated for 
early Summer use, is of an excellent, mild flavor, bears the 
heat well, and is a beautiful variety. 

Yellow Summer, or Yellow Turnip-rooted. — The very best 
for cultivating, and indeed the only one that stands the heat 
and drought with impunity. It is about an inch and a half 
or two inches in diameter, and from two to three inches long. 

Black Spanish. — This is a Winter Radish, of very large 
size ; Turnip form. It should be sown in August and Sep- 
tember, lifted in October or November, and stored away in 
sand in the cellar for supplying the table in Winter. It will 
keep good till the following April. 

Culture. — There are few vegetables that require less arti- 
ficial care and culture than the Radish. For the Spring crop, 
it likes a light, rich, dry, sandy loam ; but for later crops, a 
deep, moist soil is preferred. The first sowing should be made 
on a south or east border, with the Early Turnip-Rooted 
Beets. The Radish seed may be sown in drills between the 
latter, very thinly, covering them with about a quarter of an 
inch of fine earth. If the nights prove frosty, cover the bor- 
der with straw, which will greatly advance the crop, and pre- 
vent its destruction. If sown about the first of March, and good 
weather ensue, they will be ready in the first week of April. 
A second sowing with some other crop, such as Carrots, should 
be made about two weeks later, and at the same time sow the 
Turnip-Rooted varieties. Another sowing, of all the Salmon 
and Turnip kinds, about the middle of April, to be followed 
with two sowings of White and Yellow Summer Radishes, at in- 
tervals, will be the principal crops for the season. Towards the 
end of August and September, Early Scarlet Short-top may 
again be sown : also the Black Spanish, as formerly directed. 
Should they be too thick, at any time, when fairly up, they 
must be thinned to an inch apart : for if allowed to grow crowd- 
ed together : they will not produce a crop. It will take six 



108 



buist's family kitchen gardener. 



or eight ounces of Radish seed to supply a family fully the 
whole season, though some writers amuse us by saying an 
ounce or two is enough. They must never have sown an ounce 
of Radish seed and seen its produce. If the weather is dry, 
at any of the sowings, the seed should have a few waterings, 
till it is fairly above ground ; and even when they are growing, 
it is of much service in rendering the roots more crisp and 
better flavored. 

Forcing Radishes. — Very little artificial heat is required 
to grow them in perfection. Make a gentle hot-bed about 
eighteen inches thick, on which place a frame. Fill in one 
foot of good, light, rich soil. After it remains a few days, to 
get warm throughout, sow the seeds rather thickly. Spread a 
small portion of fine soil over them ; give the whole a gentle 
press with the back of the spade ; put on the sash, and keep 
close till the seeds appear above ground ; then air freely. If 
the plants are thick, thin them out at once to about an inch 
apart ; water occasionally when the soil appears to get dry. 
If sashes are not to be obtained, shutters and mats make a 
tolerable substitute, and after the first of March, will do per- 
fectly, though forcing early crops cannot succeed without the 
use of good glass sash. The best variety of Radish for the 
purpose is the Long Scarlet Early Short-top, or a variety of 
it called Ea xl y Frame. We have already alluded to the prac- 
tice of sowing Radishes among the Cauliflower and Winter 
Lettuce. 

Radishes sown for Seed should be kept apart from any 
other variety. If they are within three hundred yards of each 
other, they will mix. Where the Early Scarlet is wished very 
pure, it is our practice to transplant a few thousand every 
season to seed for early forcing. If it cannot be kept so far 
apart, save the seeds of two kinds every year, for thres years ; 
you will then have six sorts in culture, and the seed will keep 
three years perfectly, if in a dry place. 



RHUBARB. 



.09 



RHUBARB. 

Rheum rhaponiicu-m. — Rubarbe. Fr. — Rubarber, Ger. 

The Rhubarb of commerce is the root of the plant, which is 
principally grown in Asia, where it is dried and prepared for 
exportation to a very great extent. It is chiefly purchased by 
the Turks, who monopolize the trade as much as possible, and 
from it derive a large profit. It has been for centuries held 
in the highest estimation for its medicinal properties. It is a 
mild cathartic, and commonly considered one of the safest and 
most innocent substances of the class, though I have found 
that very large doses act as a very severe emetic : with its pur- 
gative virtues, it has a mild astringent one. and is found to 
strengthen the tone of the stomach. In addition to these quali- 
ties of the root, the stalk is allowed by all medical men to 
make one of the most cooling, wholesome, and delicious tarts 
that can be sent to the table ; and though it does, at first, ap- 
pear to some to have a peculiar flavor, yet they who use it very 
soon prefer it to any other fruit. Its rank flavor, however, 
entirely depends upon the age of the stalks ; when young, they 
are entirely free from it. Tiie varieties of Rhubarb for cook- 
ing forms an object of much interest and even great profit to 
the market gardener, and to every householder who has a 
garden it cannot be too highly recommended as a very salu- 
brious vegetable for the family, either stewed or in tarts and 
pies. For dysentery in children it is an infallible remedy, 
stewed, seasoned with sugar, and eaten in any quantity with 
bread. The stalk is fit for use when the leaf begins to expand. 
Take the outside skin off the stalk, cut it into pieces about an 
inch long, put them into a saucepan and cover them with plenty 
of brown sugar and a few table-spoonsful of cold water ; cover 
it. and let it stew slowly till perfectly soft ; after having cooled, 
it is ready for use. Few vegetables have made a more rapid 



no 



EUIST*S FAMILY KITCHEN GARDENER. 



progress in their cultivation, within tie past fifteen years, than 
this article, and we yet expect to see it cultivated by the hun- 
dred acres and brought to our market in wagon loads. The 
following sorts are all deserving of particular attention. 

Tobolsk. — A very early, small, red variety, of excellent fla- 
vor for an early crop or forcing. It grows in very rich ground 
to about eighteen inches or two feet long. 

Washington, — A green variety, very much spotted on the 
footstalks, grows two feet long, and is a second early sort. 

Giant. — A very large green variety, with round stalks, that 
will grow four feet long, and nearly the thickness of a man's 
wrist. It is cultivated in England to an immense extent, as 
a late variety, to supply the market the whole Summer. 

Mammoth. — This sort was raised by me from the seed of the 
former. It grows from three to four feet long, with stalks of 
great thickness, of a flat shape. It has taken the prize as the 
best Rhubarb, at the Pennsylvania Horticultural Society's 
meetings, the past three years. It is of excellent flavor. 

Myattfs Victoria. — This is a red variety, of great excellence 
and richly flavored, grows very strong, equal to the Giant and 
much earlier than that variety : is richly deserving of exten- 
sive culture. 

Large Ea/rly Red, — A seedling, by me. from the Victoria. 
It is even larger than its parent, comes full eight days earlier, 
and will prove the best Early Rhubarb we have yet had brought 
to our notice. The stalks are three feet long, and are quite 
flt for use before the leaf begins to expand. It is richly fla- 
vored. It may be observed that the red stalked sorts are gen- 
erally earlier than those with green stems. 

Rheum palmatum. or Palmated-leaved Rhubarb, is the vari- 
ety that is cultivated in China and Tartary for its roots, and 
in some countries another species, the Undulatum. is grown for 
the same purpose. There is no doubt that all the other vari- 
eties possess the same medicinal properties when they attain 
sufTk-ipTit age. which is allowed to b° seven years. 



RHUBARB. 



Culture. — Rhubarb is propagated either by seeds or by di- 
vision of the roots. Where a great quantity is wanted the former 
process will have to be resorted to. Though the plants raised in 
this manner will not be of a uniform character, yet from seeds of 
the best kinds all will be worth cultivation. The seed should be 
sown as early as can be done in Spring. On light, dry soil, draw 
drills about an inch deep and one foot apart, in which sow the 
seeds thinly, and cover evenly. They will be up in about four 
weeks, and if the weather proves dry, give them occasional 
waterings. Hoe them freely to keep under the weeds. Sow 
a very few Radish seeds with .them, and you will thereby see 
clearly where to use the hoe, and the Radishes will be pulled 
before the Rhubarb plants have made much progress. When 
they are an inch high, thin them out to four inches apart, and 
allow them to grow till October : at which time a piece of deep, 
rich ground should be selected, and dug eighteen inches deep, 
manuring it well with very rotten dung, and breaking and 
working it perfectly with the spade. When it has settled for 
about two weeks, set out the plants two feet apart in the row, 
and four feet between the rows. Plant their crowns two inches 
below the surface, and cover them four or five inches thick with 
leaves, or litter from the stable, to prevent the frost from 
throwing them out of the ground during Winter. No farther 
after-culture is required beyond keeping the ground clear of 
weeds. In the first year a crop of Lettuce, Beans, or Early 
Cabbage can be taken from between the rows, as the plants 
will not attain their full size for two years. In the early part 
of Winter, every year, cover the ground with a few inches of 
manure, digging it in with a fork, in Spring, among the roots. 
Rhubarb, thus treated, will continue many years in great per- 
fection, and produce a very ample return. Where there are 
only a few roots wanted, they may be procured by the division 
of one or two good roots, leaving an eye to each, and planting 
them a: once in ground prepared as above, where they are to 
remain About eight or ten plants will suffice for a small 



112 



buist's family kitchen gardener. 



family, though twenty will not be too many. By this method 
it will be ready for use in the first year after planting, whereas, 
from seed, it is three years before it is ready for the table. In 
removing the stalks for use, first scrape away a little of the 
earth, then bend down the stalk you wish to remove, and slip 
it off from the erown without breaking or cutting it. The 
stalks should not be used after the leaves are full grown, as 
they are then too hard and stringy ; use the stalks only of such 
leaves as are about half, or nearly fully expanded. Where 
there is a large supply, it can be made into a preserve of any 
kind. Both an excellent jam and jelly can be made from 
either the green or red varieties, though the color of that made 
from the latter is more beautiful, being a fine dark pink. 

Artificial Culture. — To force Rhubarb, it is only neces- 
sary to procure some large pots, boxes, or half-barrels, and 
invert them over the roots. Then cover the whole entirely, 
ground and all, with leaves and hot stable-manure. This will 
cause an agreeable heat to arise ; the plants will grow freely 
under their warm, dark covering ; the stalks will be finely 
blanched, very tender, and delicately flavored. This opera- 
tion should be performed before the ground gets frozen, by 
placing the boxes, &c, over the plants intended to be forced, 
and covering the ground with eight or ten inches of leaves or 
litter. Then, about the middle of January, mix with the leaves 
as many more, with warm dung, as will entirely cover the arti- 
cles under which the plants are preserved. If properly man- 
aged, the stalks will be fit for use in from four to six weeks, 
and the plants will continue to produce till the roots in the 
open air take their place. They, too, are greatly benefited by 
placing a barrel over them as soon as they begin to grow in 
the Spring : the stems grow more tender and much longer by 
this process. There should be a few holes in the barrel, or a 
part of the bottom taken out to admit a little air, though it is 
not absolutely essential Many persons may dislike all this 



RHUBARB. 



113 



trouble, and others have not the material at command ; to 
such, we say. cover the roots with six or eight inches of any 
dry material, which will forward them two weeks before those 
that are uncovered. Others may have the convenience of a 
green-house under the stage, or some other warm building — 
even a warm closet, or a furnace in the cellar. In such situa- 
tions the plants can be forwarded by planting them in November 
into large pots or boxes, with good earth, and placing them at 
any required time into any of these situations, giving water 
freely when they begin to grow. A crop will be obtained in a 
space of time varying according to the heat that is at command. 
After the plants have done producing stalks for culinary use, 
they may be turned out into a half shady, rich piece of ground, 
in May, when, after a season's growth, they can again be used 
for the same purpose. Hotbeds, frames or pits, will also do 
for forcing this article ; but in such a case, the glass must be 
darkened to cause them to grow and blanch. The atmosphere 
must also be freely saturated with water, to make the stalks 
swell to their full height and size. There are two advantages 
in blanching Rhubarb : first, the desirable qualities of appear- 
ance and flavor; and secondly, a saving in the quantity of sweet- 
ening material to render them agreeable to the taste. The 
stalks, when blanched, are more tender than when grown under 
the influence of strong light and in open situations. 

Culture in cold or hot latitudes. — There is no obstacle 
to the cultivation of this interesting plant. It will stand un- 
protected as far north as the St. Lawrence, and yield annually 
a large crop. North of that limit all that is necessary for its 
preservation is to throw over it, during Winter, a quantity of 
dry leaves, to keep off intense frost, and, as Spring opens, to 
clear away the litter and cultivate the ground, as previously 
directed. If there is three months of good sun, it is all the 
plant requires to mature it. Wherever Oats will grow, the Rhu- 
barb will thrive : only give it depth of soil for its roots, and 



114 



buist's family kitchen gardener.. 



manure to stimulate its luxuriance. In southern latitudes it 
must be planted in moist situations, and under the shade of 
buildings, to ward off the scorching rays of the sun at mid-day, 
and in dry periods it must be watered freely. The whole of 
this continent, from the Gulf of Mexico to Hudson's Bay, may 
enjoy the luxury of this vegetable. 

Its cultivation may be pursued to any extent for its root for 
medicinal purposes. In such a case, the species Undulatum 
and Palmatum should be planted two by four feet apart. They 
should not be robbed of their leaves at any period of their 
growth. After the roots have been seven years under culture, 
they are then ready to be lifted. After being washed thoroughly 
and deprived of their small fibres, cut the strong roots into 
pieces about two inches long, and these pieces lengthwise. 
Thread them on cords and hang them up to dry. These cords 
should be turned upside down every day for a week, to prevent 
the juice settling in any one part of the root. They should 
not be laid on boards to dry, for the board will absorb a portion 
of the juice, depriving the roots of so much of their strength. 
We doubt not but it may thus be dried as perfectly in this coun- 
try as in any of those where it is cultivated for export. 



SALSAFY, OR VEGETABLE OYSTER. 

Tragopdgoh porifolius. — Salsifts, Fr. 

Salsafy is a hardy carrot-rooted biennial, a native of the moun- 
tain meadows of Switzerland. It is considered wholesome and 
nutricious, and much esteemed by some classes, under the 
name of Oyster-plant, from its flavor after being cooked, 
having a considerable resemblance to the Oyster. It makes an 
excellent variety at the table, and forms an agreeable dish 
throughout the Winter season. As the Oyster is a very cele- 
brated fish, and many in the interior rarely obtain it, all may 



SCORZONERA. 



cultivate this vegetable, which really makes a near approach to it 
in taste, when cooked in the following manner. Previous to 
boiling the roots, let them be slightly scraped, and then laid 
in water for about an hour : then boil them till quite tender. 
Let them be taken out and laid to drain for a short time, during 
which a thick batter should be made with the white of eggs 
beaten up with a little flour. Grate the roots down tolerably 
fine : press them into small flattened balls : dip these in the 
batter, and roll them into grated crackers or crumbs of bread : 
then fry them in a pan till they are of a deep brown color, 
when they are ready for the table, and will form a very agree- 
able and even delicious dish. 

Culttre. — Sow the seed in drills, half an inch deep, and 
ten inches apart, in April, or before the end of May. As soon 
as the plants are an inch high, thin them out with the hoe to 
four or six inches apart. Keep the ground clear of weeds, 
giving them the general culture of Carrots. This vegetable is 
perfectly hardy, and may stand out all Winter, though it is 
necessary to store away a quantity for Winter use when the 
ground is hard frozen. They like a deep, rich soil, and will 
be in good condition for the table till the end of March. 

SCORZONERA. 

Scorzonera hispdnica. — Scorzonere. Fr. 

This vegetable is a native of Spain, and has, to a limited ex- 
tent, been long in cultivation. There is very little difference 
between the character and flavor of this root and that of Sal- 
safy. It is cultivated more as a variety than for any real 
.utility as a vegetable. It is cooked in the same manner as 
the former, and cultivated with the Carrot. The seed must 
be sown in April, as it requires longer to mature than 
either the Sulsafy 01 the Carrot. 



116 



buist's family kitchen gardener. 



SEA-KALE. 

Crdmbe Maritima. — Chou Marin, Fr. — Meerkohl, Grer 

This plant is found growing on the sea-coasts of Europe, 
particularly in England, where it is cultivated to a very great ex- 
tent in the gardens of the wealthy. It is closely related to 
the Cabbage, and professional men have observed that all the 
good qualities of that family are centred in the Sea-Kale. I 
suspect this opinion would be contested by lovers of " Corned 
Beef and Cabbage ;" however, I have no doubt that a free use 
of this vegetable and Rhubarb, in the Spring, would contri- 
bute greatly to reduce the Doctor's account. It can be ob- 
tained with very little trouble, the whole Winter, in its most 
perfect state ; but the fact of its having to be attended to in 
these dreary months, retards its progress. The tillers and 
workers of the soil, independent of their nocturnal slumbers, 
very frequently slumber with nature, and are inert at any em- 
ployment that requires their peculiar care at that period of the 
year. 

The mode of dressing this vegetable for the table is as fol- 
lows : Tie the stalks, or rather clusters of stalks, in bundles, and 
boil them with plenty of water, and a little salt, for twenty min- 
utes, observing that the water is boiling before they are put in. 
Have a toast ready, dip it in L he water, put it on the dish, 
and the Sea-Kale upon it, and pour a little white sauce over it, 
consisting of cream or milk, thickened with flour and butter ; or 
simply cook it as Asparagus is done, which it much resembles. 

Culture. — We venture to assert that no culinary vegeta- 
ble can be raised either naturally or artificially with less trouble 
or a greater certainty of success than the Sea-Kale, as in 
either case the plants will last many years ; and in their peri- 
odical forcing they give the gardener no anxiety, as the desired 
result is certain. Sow the seed thinly, in drills one inoh deep. 



sea-kali:. 



117 



and twelve apart, at any time in March or April (one ounce 
of seed will be sufficient for a moderate family). If the 
weather be dry, water it freely. In about two or three weeks 
the plants will appear : thin them out to an inch apart ; and 
when they have attained more strength, thin them out to two 
or three inches. They require no further care the first season, 
except to hoe freely and keep clear of weeds. During Novem- 
ber, cover the crowns of the plants with a few inches of earth. 
Early in the following Spring, prepare a piece of rich, sandy 
ground, well manured, about ten feet by thirty, giving it twenty- 
five pounds of salt, and digging the ground fully fifteen inches 
deep. Mark it out into two four-feet beds, leaving an alley 
between. In the centre of each bed a line should be drawn, 
where the strongest plants, after being carefully taken up, are 
to be planted at two feet apart, taking care that the crown of 
the plant is set two inches below the surface of the bed, to 
allow for the future rising of the crowns, which they are in- 
clined to do every year ; they will, if judiciously managed, con- 
tinue in perfection twelve or fifteen years. Within six inches 
of the edge of each bed, plant other rows in the same manner ; 
thus each bed will contain about forty-five plants. If the sea- 
son proves very dry, water occasionally, frequently stir the 
earth and constantly destroy weeds. Do not allow any of 
the plants to go to seed, which will cause them to grow stronger 
for the required purpose. Particularly for forcing under pots 
this is the most general method, and one which will bring this 
vegetable to perfection. Its season will be from Christmas to 
April, if the following process is strictly adhered to : 

When the number of roots are determined upon for forcing, 
clear them of all decayed leaves. Early in November, give 
the bed two inches of well decomposed dung : fork it in lightly, 
which will strengthen the roots and accelerate their growth. 
Cover the crowns of the plants three or four inches thick, with 
any light, sandy soil, or, if convenient, pure sand. After being 
thus finished, cover the crowns with large pots or boxes, sink- 



118 



buist's family kitchen gardener. 



ing them one or two inches in the ground, and carefully stop- 
ping up any holes in them, to prevent the entrance of any j^ank 
steam. When that is done, procure a quantity of leaves Irom 
the woods, and mix them with about a fourth or a half of 
warm, stable-manure ; with this cover th? whole of the ground 
and the pots to the depth of twenty inches, which will be 
quite sufficient to bring this vegetable to a full growth for use, 
if the temperature of 50° to 60° can be maintained. In very 
severe weather, over this covering throw some dry litter or 
boards. If the materials are properly managed, they will 
come to a heat in two or three weeks ; in three or four weeks 
more, examine a pot or two, and when the plants are found to 
have sprouts from six to eight inches in length, they may be 
cut for use, which is to be done by first removing a part of the 
earth from round the head of the plant, and cutting close to 
the crown, with part of it adhering, but taking care not to dis- 
turb the young shoots that appear round it. Afterwards cover 
the crowns with earth, as at first, and replace the pots, leaves, 
and other materials. The plants will remain in a vigorous 
state of growth for six or eight weeks, by which time the pots 
may be removed. As the cold weather goes off, take gradually 
away the covering,/ as the root and crown, by being forced, 
would probably be injured by the change, were the entire cov- 
ering taken away at once. When the plants are finally cleared, 
level down the earth or sand, and dig in a few inches of the de- 
cayed material, which will strengthen the plant for a vigorois 
growth throughout the season ; and they will be found in a 
good state for forcing in the following Winter. 

The plants that are not forced should be covered early in 
Spring with eight or ten inches of sand, or fine, light soil. 
They will produce strong sprouts, and be found, on clearing 
the ground round them, to be finely blanched, of a clear, white 
color, and when dressed, nearly equal to those blanched under 
pots. It is admitted that forcing improves the flavor of this 
esculent. It will be found that from a garden with two good 



SHALLOT. 



119 



beds of this valuable vegetable, it can be enjoyed from January 
to May, by giving the simple attention we have detailed. 

Besides the above method of forcing, it can be done success- 
fully in pits, frames, or hot-houses, where these erections are 
in use. Put the plants in large pots, using earth of a light, 
rich nature. Place them in any dark corner, where, with a 
little moisture at times, tbey will bring good sprouts for the 
table. 

SHALLOT. 

Allium ascaldnicum. — Eschalote, Fr. — Schallote, Grer. 

It will be observed from the botanic name of Shallot, that it 
is classed with the Onion tribe. It was introduced from As- 
calon, a town of Syria, and frequently is known under the 
name of Eschalots. They have a strong but not unpleasant 
odor, and are preferred to the Onion for various purposes of 
cookery and seasoning. Many epicures consider them the 
best seasoning for a good old-fashioned dish of beef-steaks. 
Though it has been two hundred years in cultivation, very lit- 
tle of the article is used in this country, unless by the French. 

Culture. — The roots are bulbous, and increase readily by 
offsets, the largest of which are most proper for use. The 
bulbs are oblong and irregular, seldom becoming large ; gen- 
erally growing in clusters, they do not swell like roots that 
grow singly. The soil best adapted for their growth is a light, 
rich, sandy loam, though they will thrive well in any rich soil 
that is not saturated with moisture. Plant them in October 
or November, in drills, six inches apart, three inches deep, and 
about eight inches from row to row. If a quantity of soot be 
mixed with the soil, it will greatly prevent the attacks of a 
maggot, which frequently commits depredations upon this 
plant. Early in Spring draw away the earth from the bulbar 
6 



J 20 buist's family kitchen gardener. 

leaving them entirely naked ; nothing further is required than 
to keep them free from weeds. In July the tops begin to 
turn yellow, when the roots can be taken up ana dried in the 
same manner as Garlic. If the planting is delayed till Spring, 
the bulbs will not require to be put under ground, but merely 
planted as Onion sets, which their culture very much reseni- 



SKTRRET 

Siuin Sisarum. — -Ckervis, Fr. — Zuckerwwrzel,(jcsx. 

Skirret is considered a nutricious vegetable, and would be 
more generally cultivated were it not for the large space of 
ground required to raise a quantity for general use. It is a 
perennial plant, a native of Asia, and has been cultivated in 
Europe about two hundred years. The roots are composed of 
long, fleshy tubers, joined together in the crown or head. 
They are cooked like Salsafy, and form a very white, sweety 
and pleasant vegetable. 

Culture.— Soil suitable for the Carrot will also grow this 
root in perfection. Sow the seeds thinly, in drills, half an 
inch deep and ten inches wide, at any time from the middle of 
April to the first of May. the ground having been previously 
well dug and manured. Sow a few Radish seeds in the drills, 
to distinguish them, and admit of hoeing to destroy the weeds, 
lest they overgrow the crop. In five or six weeks they can be 
thinned out with the hoe to five or six inches apart. Nothing 
more will be requisite, excepting a constant stirring of the soil 
and keeping down weeds. About the first of November the 
roots will be fit for use, and continue so till Spring. On the 
approach of severe frost, they should be taken up, cleaned and 
•towed away, like other roots, in sand or dry earth. 



SPINACH. 



121 



SPINACH, OR SPINAGE. 

Spindcia olerdcea. — Epinard, Fr. — Spinal, Grer. 

This vegetable is a hardy annual, said to be a native of 
Spain, and has been cultivated to a considerable extent for 
many years. If eatei freely, it is of a laxative and cooling 
nature, but does not afford much nutriment. It is admitted 
to be innocent in its effects in all kinds of diseases, and al- 
lowed by medical men to be eaten when other vegetables are 
denied. The leaves of the plants, being of a very succulent 
or moist nature, must be boiled about ten minutes in a very 
small portion of water, in which a gentle handful of salt has 
been put. As it boils, clear off the scum which arises. Drain 
it well in a colander, season it with butter and pepper, or dress 
with eggs and vinegar. There are three varieties of Garden 
Spinach in cultivation, which differ in the size and shape of 
the leaves, and the greater or less prickliness of the seeds. 

Prickly- Seeded, or Winter Spinach, is the best for sowing in 
September for Winter crops. 

Round-Seeded is preferred for Spring sowing ; and in mild 
latitudes it is generally used. It produces a rounder, fuller, 
and more fleshy leaf. 

Flanders Spinach. — This is a prickly-seeded variety, having 
great breadth of foliage. It is more luxuriant and of a greener 
color. It is not in general use, but deserves special attention. 

Culture. — This vegetable is generally sown broad-cast, as 
it is easier performed — a system we deprecate, as being un- 
professional, without neatness, and giving afterwards more 
labor to keep clean. Sow very thinly in drills a quarter of an 
inch deep, and nine inches from row to row. For Winter and 
early Spring crops, sow about the end of August, and again 
about the middle of September. For early Summer crops, sow 



J 22 BtJIST'S FAMILY KITCHEN GARDENER. 

about the end of March, and, frequently, to the middle of May 
It succeeds in any common garden soil, but the more it has 
been previously enriched with manure, the better. Indeed it 
will not produce its large, expansive leaves, nor fully develope 
its extraordinary growth, unless highly nurtured. It is a rank 
grower, and consequently a gross feeder. Always select an 
open situation, avoiding the vicinity of trees or buildings. If 
the ground is light and dry, it should be trodden down firmly, 
or rolled with a roller. The Spring crops can be sown very 
conveniently between Peas, or on ground where the Pole Beans 
are intended to be planted. The crop must be well hoed and 
faithfully cultivated, which draws the moisture to the roots, 
encouraging the growth. Where the ground is in proper con- 
dition, the plants may stand nine inches apart, and the crop 
will be easily gathered ; but if the ground is poor and the 
plants stinted, the produce is nearly worthless. The seeds 
will come up in from ten days to two weeks. Thin out the 
plants when too thick ; if they have three or four leaves an inch 
broad, they may be used till the main crop is sufficiently 
thinned. When the plants have leaves two or three inches 
broad, they will be fit for gathering, which is done by croping 
the outer leaves, the root and heart remaining to shoot out 
again. We have seen leaves of the Round and Flanders 
Spinach two feet in circumference. In this vicinity, the Win- 
ter Spinach has generally a very thin layer of straw or other 
light covering laid over it, which greatly protects the roots and 
prevents their being thrown out by the frost. Gardeners who 
have any emulation, endeavor to cover a portion of their most 
advanced crop with mats, or any covering that they can take 
off in mild weather. This enables them to procure a dish of 
this vegetable at any period during the Winter months. We 
would further observe, that if this crop is not kept quite thin, 
but one plant allowed to touch its neighbor, they will draw 
up and speedily run to seed. Two ounces of seed will plant 
five drills, each forty feet long 



SQUASH. 



123 



SQUASH. 

Cucurbita Melopepo. — Courge au Potiron, Fr. 

This vegetable is in general use from June to August, or 
even October, and is extensively cultivated in this vicinity for 
the market. There i3 no garden, however unpretending, should 
omit its culture. 

They may be cooked in the very simplest form, requiring 
about an hour's boiling in water. When done, mash well, 
place them in a colander and press out the water freely. Sea- 
son with pepper, cream and butter, and dish them up for the 
table. 

There are several sorts for both Summer and Winter use. 
The former only deserves attention, as the latter are inferior 
to the Cashaic Pumpkin. 

Early Bush, or Patty-pan. from its dwarf habit and produc- 
tiveness, is preferred for early crops. It is of a yellowish- 
white color, round and pan-shaped. Many acres of them are 
grown for our markets. 

Green Striped., or Large- Gretm. — This crook-necked variety 
is perfectly green, with a few light stripes in it. Some prefer 
it to the former, though not generally, it being both later and 
more rampant in growth. 

Culture. — Plant in May, June, and July, in hills four feet 
each way. in the same manner as directed for Cucumbers. 
Their general management and after- culture is the same in 
every respect. Half an ounce of seed will supply any family. 
They are fit for use when about the size of the fist. When the 
skin becomes so hard that the nail of the finger cannot pierce 
it easily, it is unfit for use. 



124 



buist's family kitchen gardener. 



SWISS CHARD, OR SILVER BEET. 

Beta Vulgaris argent ea. — Swiss Chard, Ger. 

This spinaceous plant is becoming very generally distrib- 
uted as a vegetable. Its leaves only are used. It is a variety 
of the Beet, having bright green foliage, with the leaf-stalk and 
mid-rib of a pure white, and is sometimes known under the 
name of Seakale Beet, from the fact that the footstalk and 
nerves of the leaves can be used like that vegetable. The 
leaf, after being deprived of the strong mambranes, is cooked 
like Spinach, and very favorably received at the table. The 
root portion of the plant is not generally made use of. 

Culture. — This is accomplished in the same manner and 
by the same- process as detailed for the Beet, page 28. It is 
extensively cultivated in France, Germany, and Switzerland. 
To those who are fond of a vegetable diet, it may form a very 
prominent portion in the months of June, J uly, and August — 
the warm season, when Spinach and Seakale cannot be ob- 
tained. Sow for the first crop in March, and for the second 
in May. An ounce of see 4 will supply a large family. 



TARRAGON. 

Artemisia Dracunculus. — U Estragon, Fr. — Dragun, Ger. 

Tarragon is a perennial plant, a native of Siberia and Tar- 
tary, where it is covered during the Winter months with snow. 
The French are particularly fond of it in salads. The leaves 
and young tops are used as ingredients in pickles, and a sim- 
ple infusion of them in vinegar makes an excellent fish sauce ; 
the leaves are also eaten with beef-steaks, having a fragrant 
smell and an aromatic taste. 



THYME TOMATO. 



125 



Culture. — It is propagated by parting the roots in Spring 
and planting them in a^ light, rich soil, one foot apart, but 
free from dung that is not thoroughly decomposed. Six plants 
will supply a family. Cover them in severe Winters with 
rough litter, or a few branches and leaves. If they are planted 
in moist soil, heavy and continued frosts will destroy their 
roots : they delight in a warm, dry situation. 



THYME. 

Thymus vulgaris. — Thyriu Fr. — Thimia?i. Ger. 

The common garden Thyme is a low. evergreen, procumbent 
shrub. It is a native of England. Spain and Greece. It has 
an agreeable aromatic smell, and a warm, pungent taste. Its 
culinary use is principally for soups and seasoning of every 
description. 

Culture. — A few bushes of this plant is all that is necessa- 
ry for a family. They can be procured by the slip or division 
of the root, or from seeds : the latter are very small, and 
should be sown in moist weather, on a spot of fine soil : cover 
the seed very lightly and press it with the back of the spade. 
A spot of ground one foot square is sufficient. Thyme that is 
intended for Winter use should be cut when just coming into 
bloom, tied up in bundles, dried in the shade, and put away in 
paper. 



TOMATO. 

Solatium Ly coper sicum. — Tar/iate. Fr. — Liebes Apfel. Ger. 

Ix taking a retrospect of the past eighteen years, there is no 
vegetable on the catalogue that has obtained such popularity 
in so short a period as the one now under consideration. To 



126 



b list's family kitchen gardener. 



1828-9 it was almost detested : in ten years more every vari- 
ety of pill and panacea was " extract of Tomato." It now oc- 
cupies as great a surface of ground as Cabbage, and is culti- 
vated the length, and breadth of the country. As a culinary 
dish it is on every table from July to October. Contiguous 
to large cities, where a high price is given for the first and 
earliest supply, the exertions of the experienced market gar- 
dener bring every operation to bear on its early maturity. It 
is brought to the table in an infinite variety of forms, being 
stewed and seasoned, stuffed and fried, roasted and raw. and 
in : nearly every form palatable to all. It is also made into 
pickles, catsup, and salted in barrels for Winter use. so that 
with a few years more experience, we may expect to see it as 
an every-day dish from January to January. It belongs to 
the same family as the Potato, and like it is destined to be 
universally cultivated in all climates where it will mature : 
and we yet expect to see it grown to an extent in the erections 
of the wealthy who inhabit colder latitudes, that they too 
may enjoy this favorite. There are several kinds grown for 
fancy purposes, but only three sorts for the table : these are. 

The large smooth Red,, — This is a very recent variety, in every 
respect similar to the common sort, only being smooth and 
free from protuberances and indentations. 

Large Red, — The sort that is grown by the hundreds of 
acres for market supply, and is from three to eighteen inches 
in circumference. 

Pear Shaped, — This variety is of a reddish-pink color, very 
fleshy, contains fewer seeds than the two former sorts, equally 
as good for stewing, and preferable for pickling, being more 
firm, and of a better shape. 

Cherry Shaped. — This variety is very appropriately named. 
It is cultivated expressly for pickling, and forms a very beauti- 
ful variety. 

There are several other fancy sorts, generally of a yellow 
color, which have an interest to those who are fond of variety. 



OMATO. 



1 27 



Culture. — It is indispensable, in good gardening, to have 
this popular vegetable fit for the table at the earliest possible 
period. We therefore advise all to resort to the best and most 
expeditious means at their command. Hotbeds- in March, are 
generally used to grow a few hundreds, or thousands, as wants 
require. Sow the seed very thinly, and cover it slightly. It is 
generally sure of vegetating, and if the plants come up thickly, 
they draw and crowd each other. In a few days they will be 
three or four inches high, requiring to be freely aired, if in a 
hotbed, at all favorable periods in time of sunshine. As they 
advance in growth, transplant into other frames, under glass, 
where they will stand two or three inches apart, to harden and 
prepare for removal to the open ground. About the first of 
May select some sheltered spot : plant them three feet apart, 
by the side of a close fence, or other erection, where they will 
have the full benefit of the sun the whole day. When they 
are about a foot high, draw earth to their stems and surround 
them with branches for support. The earliest plants should 
have a few inches taken off their tops as soon as they have set 
their fruit. This will cause them to ripen more rapidly. 
Where there is plenty of space under glass, it is a good plan 
to pot a quantity of the plants in April, and encourage their 
growth by every possible means, transplanting them into the 
open air as soon as there is a possibility of settled, warm 
weather, which is general 1 y about the second week in May, in 
this vicinity. 

Those who have not such convenient arrangements as above, 
can place a small box or large pot. with good rich earth, in 
their kitchen window, and sow in it a few seeds, about the 
middle of March or the first of April. By this means they 
will have the crop ready two or three weeks before those that 
are sown in the open air. For a general crop, sow about the 
last week of April, on a sheltered, warm spot of ground, in 
light, rich soil. If the nights are cold, cover with a little 
straw or other brush. Keep the plants thin, that they may 
6* 



128 buist's family kitchen gardener. 

grow stocky and strong. Transplant about the 20th of May, 
two feet from plant to plant and three feet from row to row, 
where they are to remain. The frame in which the Cabbage 
plants were during Winter, is an excellent spot for these 
seeds, which may be sown as soon as they are removed, in 
March. Protect with mats and shutters in cold weather. The 
seed grows best when it is only very slightly covered. Al- 
though great care is taken for its early protection, it is of a 
very hardy nature, and will lie dormant in the ground all 
Winter, vegetating in the Spring, as the season advances. In 
some seasons there is a caterpillar very destructive to the 
vines, against which the only remedy is picking them off as 
soon as they appear. For the proper culture of this crop, it is 
indispensable to have rich ground. That whereon the Winter 
Spinach was grown will suit, if in good heart. 

TRUFFLE. 

Tuber a Terrce'a.—Truffe, Fr.—Truffel, Ger. 

The Truffle is a subterraneous fungus, growing naturally 
some inches below the surface, in some parts of Italy, France, 
and even Great Britain. We do not suppose that its cultiva- 
tion has been attempted in this country, neither are we inti- 
mately acquainted with the process of its culture. It has been 
successfully grown by several individuals in England, who 
procured the Truffle from where it was found growing, laying 
it in a somewhat similar situation, either in the vicinity of 
woods or in the open field. It is a very singular production, 
combining (in the opinion of naturalists) a flavor of both flesh 
and vegetable. It is of a globular formation, about the size 
of a hen's egg, without any roots or fibres. It is sometimes 
seen of a dark brown color, while at other times it is of a whi- 
tish appearance. The surface is uneven and rough, the flesh 
firm — white when young, but as it becomes old, it approaches 



TURNIP, 



129 



black, with light brown veins. Dogs and swine have been 
trained to search for the Truffle. In Italy it is called Swine's 
Bread, as these animals are exceedingly fond of them. The 
Italians tie a cord to the hog's foot and drive him, observing 
where he roots. The French an<_. English have dogs called 
Truffle -dogs, trained to scent it out These dogs point out the 
spot, by scraping and barking ; and the Truffles, which are 
generally found in clusters, are dug up with a spade They 
are used, like the mushroom, in stuffings, gravies, and other 
high-seasoned preparations, and will keep perfectly sound for 
several months. 

Culture. — They have been successfully cultivated in Ger- 
many, France, and England, on which there is a large pamph- 
let published, to which we refer those who wish information 
on the subject. "We are not acquainted with the manner of 
their growth, and it is not our habit to detail to others what 
we do not practically know. 



TURNIP. 

Brasska Rap a, — Navet. Fr. — Steckrube, Ger. 

The Turnip is a vegetable common to all temperate and 
cold latitudes. It has been known for 250 years, and has be- 
come, in some countries, an extensive field-crop. It is not 
positively known of what country it is a native. Horticul- 
tural and agricultural science has brought it to its present 
perfection. It is accounted a salubrious root, but in weak 
stomachs it is apt to produce flatulency and prove difficult 
of digestion. It is frequently used medicinally in coughs, 
hoarseness, and other asthmatic disorders. The syrup of Tur- 
nip, after being extracted by baking and mixed with honey, is 
a family receipt for these complaints. Turnips are principally 
used at the taV-.e with boiled meats, or mashed, strained, and 



130 



buist's family kitchen gardener. 



mixed with butter, cream, and other seasoning, for which pur- 
pose mid-sized Turnips are better than large ones, as the lat- 
ter, being of a spongy nature, contain more water than those 
smaller. In the present day, during the great deficiency of 
the Potato crop, they form a partial substitute for that valu- 
able root — especially in Europe, where some of the ficer kinds 
of the Turnip have been found, by recent analysis, to give 
nearly as much nourishment. The young sprouts from the 
tops, in Spring, make excellent greens. There are only a few 
sorts suitable for garden culture. 

Early White Dutch , or White Strap-leaved, is a very early 
kind, of a round, flat form : the leaves are short and narrow. 
This and the following variety will produce roots fit for the 
table in six weeks from sowing. 

Early Red-top Dutch, or Strap-leaved Red-tap. has every 
character of the former, except that the portion of the root 
which is fully exposed above ground is of a red or purple 
color. 

Early Yellow Dutch is a very beautifully formed variety, 
of the color indicat-ed by its name. It is quite firm, sweet, 
round in form, and keeps well. 

Of this class there are also the JJliite and Yellow Stone, 
Yellow Malta. Snowball, and some others, all of which we 
think, in this climate, inferior to the three described. 

For Spring use, the following Swede or Rutabaga Turnips 
should be sown : 

The Purple-topped Swede is of an oval, tapering form, and 
requires to be sown in July: flesh very fine, and keeps till 
Spring. 

Improved Swede. — We are highly in favor of this variety of 
Turnip, either for the garden or field : it has a better formed 
root than the common sort : the leaves do not grow sc strong ; 
the flesh is of a fine yellow, and very pleasant flavor. 



TURNIP. 



131 



The following are the relative nutritive properties of the 
Swede and Garden or Field Turnips : 

4 oz. Swede Turnip afford 110 grs. nutritive matter. 
4 oz. Dutch or Garden afford 85 grs. nutritive matter. 

Culture. — The soil most genial for the Turnip is acknow- 
ledged to be a gravelly, sandy loam. Some say " poor soil, 
where no other vegetables will grow," is the best: I say, 
good rich soil, with a dry bottom. In such sow for an early 
crop as soon as the frost is out of the ground, either broad- 
cast or in drills, ten inches apart and one-fourth of an inch 
deep. An ounce of seed will sow a bed four feet wide and 
forty feet long. Rake the surface even. If dry weather, 
press the ground with the back of the spade or a light wooden 
roller. One sowing only can be made in the Spring. From 
the middle to the end of July is the proper time for sowing 
the Swede or Rutabaga. Drills are most suitable for this sort. 
Draw them fifteen inches apart, and thin out the plants as they 
grow, till they stand eight inches from each other. This va- 
riety requires very frequent use of the hoe in stirring the soil, 
to keep it s^eet and encourage the growth requisite to mature 
this best and most nutritious of Turnips. In August sow the 
other sorts for a Fall and Winter supply. It is best to make 
two sowings, say about the first and towards the middle or 
end of the month ; roll or tramp firm the ground after the seed 
at this period of the year — the first sowing to mature early for 
immediate use, the last sowing to store away for a Winter 
supply. In some seasons we have to sow, and sow, and sow 
again, either from drought or the effects of the fly, which fre- 
quently destroys it as soon as it vegetates ; in dry seasons it 
is particularly destructive. In garden culture, a few pots of 
water every evening will promote the growth of the seed, and 
bring it speedily away from the attacks of the fly. One thing 
must be observed : to have the ground always fresh dug be- 
fore sowing. Soot, wood-ashes, and air-slacked lime are all 



132 BUIST J S FAMILY KITCHEN CtA tDENER. 

said to be preventives, if strewn over the plants. We feel 
assured that its application will retard their progress, but 
cloudy and showery weather is more effectual. If seed of the 
current year and seed of one or two years old be sown on the 
same piece of ground separately, the old seed will frequently 
be cut off, while the seed of the current year will escape. 
Good seed will germinate in from thirty-six to forty-eight 
hours. When the crop is destroyed, stir or dig the ground 
immediately and sow again. When the plants have grown 
about an inch high, introduce the hoe among them, and thin 
out to two or three inches apart ; and in a week or two more, 
give them another hoeing and thinning. Till they stand six 
inches from each other, do not draw any earth to their roots : 
in fact the reverse was our practice twenty years ago : they 
were sown on ridges, and the earth drawn down as the plants 
advanced m growth. The result was frequently forty tons 
per acre. 

Taking up the Crop. — Turnips may be kept perfectly sound 
till Spring by being taken up about the first of November, or 
before severe frost sets in. Cut the leaves off to about half an 
inch from the bulb ; collect the latter, and put them in a dry 
pit or cellar ; cover with straw, and earth over all. Thus 
protected, they will be found fresh and perfect till February, 
after which the Swede will be fit for the table till April. 
Those for Spring use can be pitted out of doors in a dry situa 
tion, piling them in a conical form and covering them with 
three inches of straw and a foot or eighteen inches of earth, 
which will be ample protection. When opened in Spring, these 
will be found to have nearly all the flavor of being fresh from 
the field. 

Save Seed. — In many cases this is very essential ; you will 
then be always sure of the age and quality. Select early in 
Spring a few of the best formed roots, draw deep drills two 



VEGMAJ5LE MARROW. 



133 



feet apart and place the bulbs therein, covering them all over 
carefully with the earth. They will soon shoot up and branch 
out, ripening their seeds in July. It is preferable, however, 
to change the seed of this, as well as all other vegetables, every 
few years ; and in purchasing, buy always from a responsible 
vender, who feels a vital interest in selling a pure and genuine 
article. The seed will keep three years in a dry place ; if it 
is two years old, soak it in water twenty-four hours before 
sowing. 



VEGETABLE MARROW. 

Cucurbita ovifera, var. — Patiron, Fr. 

We have been frequently greatly amused by some of our 
friends kindly presenting us with seeds purporting to be the 
marrow of all the vegetables, or Vegetable Marrow." It is 
a species of Gourd introduced from Persia several years ago, 
and has been found useful for culinary purposes in every stage 
of its growth. When young, it is cut in slices and fried with 
butter : when more mature, it is cut in quarters, stewed in rich 
gravy, and seasoned to taste ; in this way it is very agreeable, 
and said to be both wholesome and nutritious. 

Culture. — This vegetable is characteristically situated be- 
tween the Pumpkin and the Squash, consequently its habits 
and mode of growth are very similar to those plants. Plant 
the seeds in hills, about the first of May, six feet apart, and 
manage them as directed for the above. It has an oval fruit 
inside, very fleshy. In saving the seed, keep the plants dis- 
tant from any the family. 



134 



buist's family KITCHEN gardener. 



WATER CRESS. 

Sisymbrium Nasturtium. — Cresson de Fontaine, Fr. — Brun- 
nenkresse. Gen 

The many virtues that were attributed to the Water Cress 
in days of old, if at all applicable then, are equally valuable 
at the present day. Its botanical name alludes to its warm 
and cordial qualities, which were considered to infuse life into 
persons of low and dull spirits. The Cress is also famed for its 
antiscorbutic qualities, and may be safely eaten at all seasons 
of the year, but is particularly in request in Spring. It 
should be found in our markets in profusion, being pecu- 
liarly adapted to the constitutions of those who live chiefly 
on animal food. Water Cresses are found growing in clear 
runs of water and springs throughout this country and Europe. 
There is about an acre of them at Spring-Mill, near this city. 
It is a plant that has winged leaves, like the Rose, or like half- 
grown leaves of the Ash tree, of a roundish heart-like shape, 
with few indentures on the edges ; the upper part of which, 
after more mature growth, is of a reddish-brown color, and 
forms roots in the water at every joint. 

Culture. Wherever there is a running stream and a gra- 
velly soil, they may be cultivated to advantage. In fact every 
spring house in the country should have attached to it a bed 
of Water Cresses. They may be obtained by the simple pro- 
cess of throwing the plants on the water ; the seeds will ripen 
and soon propagate in abundance. They can also be cultivated 
in low, moist, loamy soil, that can be irrigated and drained at 
pleasure. Give it a deep diging with the spade in March or 
April ; make beds four feet wide, and set the plants therein 
at about six inches apart. Water them abundantly ; they will 
soon establish themselves, and the only culture they require is 
to keep them moist, and destroy carefully every weed In the 



CLOSING REMARKS ON VEGETABLES. 



135 



absence of moisture the plants will be destroyed by the heat 
and drought. There are also the 

AMERICAN CRESS, 

Barbarea prcecox. — - Cresson de Amerique, Fr. — Amerikanisher 
Kresse. Ger. ; and the 

WINTER CRESS, 

Ery'simum Barbarea. — Cresson de Terre, Fr. — Winter 
Kresse. Ger. ; 

But both of these are subordinate to the Water Cress in every 
character, and our pages may be occupied with more useful 
subjects. 



CLOSING REMARKS ON VEGETABLES. 

Through these few pages I have endeavored to inculcate 
upon the student the benefit of being always in time with a 
crop. Never delay doing to-day, in the hope of having more 
time to-morrow. Do it at once, if it can be done. Gardeners 
have not a moment to spare — unoccupied ground, weeds, hoe- 
ing, raking, sowing, reaping, digging — preparing poles, rods, 
stakes, manure, and many other duties, demand his attention at 
all times. We have never seen a good gardener who did not 
feel it a pleasure to be in advance of these wants. Get once 
behind, lose time, and it is hard to make up. Sow early in the 
season, and if you fail you have time for a second trial : where- 
as, if you sow late and miss your crop, the opportunity of re- 
covering the loss is gone with it. Sow before or just after 
rain, but never when the ground is wet. Beware of sowing 
deep, or in dry weather, or on dry ground. If this cannot be 
avoided, soak your seeds in water a few hours, sow them, and 
then water the ground freely, id 3 Gardeners never sleep when 
the sun is up. 



MEDICINAL HERBS. 



The following is a list of such plants as are generally denomi- 
nated Medicinal Herbs, and which are found to be more or 
less wanted in most families. We therefore give a short de- 
scription of them, and the purposes for which they are most 
commonly used. They may, in most instances, be very easily 
cultivated. The soil for growing the greater part should be 
light and dry, but that of a poorer description is more suitable 
for some, as Lavender, Rosemary, Rue, Sage, Wormwood, and 
a few others ; and if planted in a rich, moist soil, much of 
their aromatic quality flies off, and they are rendered less ca- 
pable of withstanding any severe weather. 



ANGELICA. 

A?igelica archangelica, — Angelique, Fr. — E?igelwurtz, Ger. 

Is a native of the northern parts of Europe, and has been 
long cultivated. It is biennial, and propagated from its seeds, 
which are to be sown as soon as gathered, in August, in a moist 
situation ; and when the plants are about six inches high, they 
must be transplanted to a similar soil, about three feet apart. 
The plants will last many years, provided they are not allowed 
to run to seed. The flowering stems should be cut down 
when a few inches high. The stalks of Angelica were for- 
merly blanched, an i eaten as Celery, but they are now only 



ANISE-SEED BALM. 



137 



Vised us a sweetmeat, when candied, by the confectioners. 
The Laplanders extol the utility of this herb for coughs and 
other disorders of the chest, but in this country it is seldom 
employed for that purpose, as many other simples surpass it 
in aromatic and carminative powers. 



ANISE-SEED. 

Pimpi/iella A?iisum. — Boucage, Fr. — Anis. Ger. 

A native of Egypt and some other eastern countries. The 
seeds are annually imported from Malta and Spain. The 
plant is annual, and propagated by sowing the seed in a light, 
dry soil, in Spring. Anise-seeds have a warm, aromatic smell, 
and a pleasant, warm taste, accompanied with a degree of 
sweetness ; they have been useful in many complaints, but 
none more so than in flatulent colics and obstructions of the 
breast, for diarrhoeas, and for strengthening the tone of the 
stomach in general. 



BALM. 

Melissa officinalis. — Melisse, Fr. — Melisse, Ger. 

So called from the Greek word signifying honey ^ because 
of the abundant and excellent honey of its flowers, for which 
bees greatly frequent it. The Garden Balm is a native of the 
mountains of Geneva, Savoy, and Italy. It is perennial, and 
may be readily propagated by parting the roots in Spring or Au- 
tumn, and planting them in beds of common garden mould. 
The herb, in its recent state, has a weak, aromatic taste, and a 
pleasant smell, somewhat of the lemon kind. Balm was for- 
merly esteemed of great use in all complaints supposed to pro- 
ceed from a disordered state of the nervous system. As tea, 



138 



BUISrS FAMILY KITCHEN GARDENER. 



however, it makes a grateful dilutent drink in fevers, *and in 
this way it is commonly used either by itself or acidulated 
with lemons. 

BLESSED THISTLE. 

Centaurea benedicta. — Centaur ee Sudorifique, Fr. — Cardo 
benediden. Grer. 

A native of the south of France, Spain, ana the Levant. It 
is annual, and propagated from seed sown in Autumn. This 
plant has obtained the name of Benedietus, or Blessed, from 
its supposed extraordinary medicinal qualities. It has an in- 
tensely bitter taste and disagreeable smell. It was formerly 
employed to assist the operation of emetics : but the flowers 
of Chamomile are now substituted for it with equal advantage. 
It was also thought, when taken internally, to be peculiarly 
efficacious in malignant fevers. In loss of appetite, where the 
stomach has been injured by irregularities, its good effects 
have been frequently experienced. It has now lost much of 
its reputation, and does not seem to be essentially different 
from other simple bitters. 



BORAGE. 

Borago officinalis. — Bourrache. Fr. — Borragen, Grer. 

This herb is said to have originated from Aleppo, but is 
now naturalized in many parts of Europe. It is a hardy an- 
nual, and easily cultivated, from sowing the seeds in April, 
which come up without any care. Borage is cultivated in our 
gardens on account of the supposed cordial virtues of its flow- 
ers, but they have long lost their reputation. In Italy its 
young and tender leaves are in common use, both as a pot-herb 
and a salad. In France its flowers, with those of Nastvrtivm, 



CARAWAY. CHAMOMILE. 



139 



are put into salads as an ornament. In England it is now 
nearly neglected, but the flowers and upper leaves are some- 
times used as an ingredient in that Summer beverage com- 
posed of wine, water, lemon juice, and sugar, called a cool 
tankard, to which they seem to give an additional coolness. 



CARAWAY. 
Carum Cdrui — Carvi. Fr. — KummeL Ger. 

A native of many countries in the northern parts of Europe. 
It is biennial, and propagated by sowing the seeds in Spring. 
The seeds of this plant are well known to have a pleasant, spicy 
smell, and a warm, aromatic taste : and on that account they 
are much used as a common ingredient in cakes, and are en- 
crusted in sugar for comfits : they are also distilled with spir- 
ituous liquors, to improve their flavor. The tender leav^ Sn 
Spring are sometimes boiled in soups. 



CHAMOMILE. 

A'nthemis nobilis. — Camomille, Fr. — Kamille, Ger. 

G-e,ows wild in many parts of Europe. It is a hardy pe- 
rennial, and easily propagated by parting the roots early in 
Spring. Both the leaves and flowers of the Chamomile have 
a strong, though not ungrateful, smell, and a very bitter, nau- 
seous taste. The flowers possess the stomachic and tonic 
qualities usually ascribed to simple bitters. A watery infu- 
sion of them is frequently used for the purpose of exciting 
vomiting, or for promoting the operation of emetics. They 
are very generally used in emollient* decoctions, to assuage 
pain ; and externally as fomentations, 



140 



BUIST'S FAMILY KITCHEN GARDENER. 



CLARY. 

Salvia Scldrea. — Orvale. Fr. — Scharlachkraut. Ger, 

A native of Italy and Syria, and long known in the Eng- 
lish garden, where it is a hardy biennial. It is easily raised 
from seed, which should be sown in March, in any bed or 
border of common earth. Clary was formerly much used in 
cookery, but it is not now in much repute. A wine is some- 
times made from the herb in flower, which has a flavor not 
unlike Frontigniac. 



CORIANDER. 

Coridndrum Sativum. — Coriandre. Fr. — Koria?ider, Ger. 

A native of the southern parts of Europe, and of China. It 
is a hardy annual, and propagated from seed sown in Autumn, 
in an open situation, on a bed of good, fresh earth. The dried 
seeds of Coriander have a tolerably grateful smell, with a mod- 
erately warm and slightly pungent taste. They are carmina- 
tive (soothing or softening) and stomachic ; and are commonly 
sold by the confectioners, encrusted with sugar. 



DILL. 

Anethum graveolens, — UAnith. Fr. — Dill, Ger. 
Grows wild among the corn in Spain and Portugal ; and 
may be produced by sowing the seeds soon after they are ripe, 
in any light soil. The seeds of Dill have a moderately warm, 
pungent taste, and an aromatic smell, but not of the most 
agreeable kind ; they were formerly much used in medicine, 
but are now seldom employed. They are sometimes put into 
pickles to heighten the flavor, particularly of Cucumbers. 



ELECAMPANE HOREHOUND. 



141 



ELECAMPANE. 

Invla Hdenium. — Inule^ Fr. — Invle. G-er. 

The Elecampane is a strong-growing perennial plant, a na- 
tive of Britain, rising from three to five feet high. It is cul- 
tivated in most gardens, and delights in a moist or shaded sit- 
uation. It can be propagated by dividing the root in the 
Autumn. The roots are thick. Carrot-shaped, and aromatic ; 
when dried, ground, and made into a tea. it is considered an ex- 
cellent remedy for a cold. In some countries the root is can- 
died and used as a stomachic for strengthening the tone of the 
viscera. 

HOREHOUND. 

Marrubium vulgar e. — Mar rube. Fr. 

Common in many parts of the world, on waste ground, and 
among rubbish, in hot, dry, and dusty situations. The plant 
is annual, and may be raised by sowing the seeds in any of 
the Spring months. The leaves have a moderately strong 
smell, of the aromatic kind, but not agreeable : their taste is 
very penetrating, bitter, and durable in the mouth. This herb 
was extolled by the ancients for its efficacy in removing ob- 
structions of the lungs. It has been chiefly employed in hu- 
moral asthmas, obstinate coughs, and pulmonary consumptions. 
Its use is also said to be beneficial in affections of the liver. 
Lozenges made of the juice of this herb and sugar are esteemed 
good for colds. Though Horehound possesses some share of 
medicinal power, its virtues do not appear to be clearly ascer- 
tained, and it is now rarely prescribed by physicians, 



42 buist's family kitchen gardener. 



HYSSOP. 

Hyssopus officinalis. — Hysope, Fr. — Isop, Ger. 

A native of the south of Europe, and must have been known 
among the ancients. This plant, being perennial, is easily 
propagated, by sowing the seeds in a border of light mould, in 
the Spring season, or by slips, and cutting and parting the 
roots. The whole plant has a strong aromatic scent, and the 
leaves and flowers are of a warm, pungent taste ; they are some- 
times reduced to powder and used with cold salad herbs. 
Hyssop has the general virtues ascribed to aromatics, and is 
recommended in asthmas, coughs, and other disorders of the 
lungs. The young leafy shoots and flower-spikes are usually 
employed, being cut as they are wanted. The flower stems 
may be cut during the Summer, and tied up in bunches for 
use. 



LAVENDER. 

Lavandula Splca. — Lavande, Fr. — Spiklavendel, Grer. 

Is a very hardy plant, and a native of the south of Europe. 
It may be readily increased by planting slips or cuttings of 
the young shoots in the Spring. The common Lavender has 
been cultivated for ages past. The fragrant smell of the 
flower is well known, and to most persons is very agreeable j 
to the taste it is bitterish, warm, and somewhat pungent ; the 
leaves are weaker, and less grateful. The flowers are often 
employed as a perfume, and medicinally as mild stimulants and 
corroborants, in several complaints, both internally and exter- 
nally. They are also sometimes used in the form of a conserve 



PENNY-ROYAL MINT PEPPERMINT. 



143 



PENNY-ROYAL MINT. 

Mentha Pulegium. — Pouliot. Fr. — Poley, Ger. 

Is a native of watery places. It is easily propagated by 
parting the roots in Spring. They succeed best in a strong, 
moist soil, and when planted on the edges of rivulets, ponds, 
&c. Penny-royal has a warm, pungent flavor, somewhat sim- 
ilar to Mint, but more acrid, and less agreeable both in taste 
and smell. It possesses the general properties of other mints, 
but is supposed to be of less efficacy as a stomachic. This 
herb is less frequently used now for medicinal purposes than 
formerly. 



PEPPERMINT. 

Mentha labitata. — Menthe, Fr. — Munze. G-er. 

A native of watery places in various parts of the world 
This variety has a more penetrating smell than any of the 
other Mints, and a much stronger and warmer taste. It may 
be increased with facility by young offset plants or shoots, or 
by parting the roots in Spring, or by planting cuttings during 
any of the Summer months, in a moist soil. Peppermint is 
much cultivated for medicinal purposes, as well as for distilla- 
tion ; its stomachic and carminative qualities render it useful 
in flatulent cholics, hysteric affections, and retchings, in which 
it acts as a cordial. The Essence of Peppermint was formerly 
considered an elegant medicine : and a cordial is made from 
this plant which is by many people much admired. 



144 BUIST'S FAMILY KITCHEN GARDENER. 



ROSEMARY. 

Rosemarmus offici?idlis. — Romarin, Er. — -Rosmarin, Ger. 

A native of the south of Europe, the Levant, and found 
occasionally in the Grecian isles. It is propagated from the 
seed, or by planting slips or cuttings in the early Spring 
months. Rosemary has a fragrant aromatic smell, and a 
warm, pungent taste; the leaves and tender tops are the 
strongest ; the flowers, by themselves, are much weaker but 
more agreeable. This herb is reckoned one of the most pow- 
erful of those plants which stimulate and corroborate the ner- 
vous system ; it has, therefore, been recommended in various 
affections supposed to proceed from debilities. It is generally 
given in the form of an infusion. 



RUE. 

Ruta graveoleiis. — Rue, Fr. — Rante, Ger. 

Is a hardy shrub, and a native of the south of Europe. It 
is propagated in a similar manner to the Rosemary, and re- 
quires the same cultivation. The common Rue has a strong^ 
ungrateful odor, and a bitter, hot, penetrating taste. Tne 
leaves are so acrid as to irritate and inflame the skin if they 
are much handled. Rue was much used by the ancients, who 
ascribed to it many excellent qualities. It is employed by 
some as a tea, and also externally, in various kinds of fomen- 
tations. A conserve, made by beating the fresh leaves with 
thrice their weight of sugar, is the most commodious form for 
using the herb in substance. It is a powerful astringent, and 
adapted to phlegmatic habits, or weak and hysterical constitu- 
tions suffering from retarded or obstructive secretions. 



SAGE — SCURVY GRASS. 



145 



SAGE. 

Salvia officinalis. — Sauge, Fr. — Salbey, G-er. 

Is a native of the south of Europe, a perennial, and readily 
increased by planting slips or cuttings in April. Sage has a 
strong, fragrant smell, and a warm, bitterish, aromatic taste. 
It was in ancient times considered as a remedy of general effi- 
cacy in all diseases. At present, however, few practitioners 
consider it as an article of much importance in medicine. 
Although frequently employed as a sudorific, it seems to have 
no advantage in this respect over many other plants. The 
Chinese, who are said to have experienced the good effect of 
Sage, value it highly, and prefer it to their own Tea. The 
Dutch have long been in the habit of drying Sage leaves in 
great quantities, and taking them out to China, where for 
every pound of Sage they get in exchange four pounds of Tea. 
It is much used in cookery of various descriptions. 



SCURVY GRASS. 

Cochlearia officinalis. — Cranson officinal, Fr. — Loffelkraut, Ger. 

Common on the sea coasts of Europe, and not unfrequent in 
mountainous countries, far inland. It is biennial, and propa- 
gated from seed sown in the Spring, or by parting the roots 
and planting them in a light, moist soil This plant has a 
warm, acrid, bitter taste, and a pungent, rather unpleasant 
smell when bruised. It has been considered as one of the 
most effectual of all the antiscorbutics, when eaten as a salad 
with Water Cre3s, &c. 



146 



buist's family kitchen gardener. 



SORREL. 

Rumex acetosa. — Oseille, Fr. — Sauerampfer, Grer. 

Some species of the Sorrel is found in every part of the 
world. Wherever seen, it indicates a poor, sour soil. It is 
peculiarly a French dish, and considered an effectual remedy 
against scurvy. Its general use is in salads, and occasionally 
boiled as a sauce, and may be cooked similarly to Spinach. 
It is increased by seeds or division of the roots. Plant in a 
light, rich, moist soil, in rows ten inches apart ; they will fur- 
nish a plentiful supply of leaves the same season. They after- 
wards only require to be kept clean, and to have the seed-stems 
cut down as well as the overgrown leaves in Autumn. 



TANSY. 

Tanacetum vulgdre. — Tanaise, Fr. — Rkeinfarn, Grer. 

A native of banks, hedges, and borders of fields, in most 
parts of the middle of Europe. It is perennial, and easily 
propagated by seed, and also by parting the roots in Spring 
and planting them in any light soil or situation. Tansy has 
a strong, aromatic smell, and a bitter taste. It is tonic and 
stomachic, and has the usual qualities attributed to bitters of 
the warm or aromatic kind. It was formerly much used in 
puddings, but has of late been neglected, and is now seldom 
used, either as a culinary vegetable >r medicinal herb. 



VORMWOOD. 



147 



WORMWOOD; 

Artemisia absinthium. — Absinthe. Fr. — JVermuth. Ger. 
It is a hardy perennial, and may be propagated by slips, in 
March or October, or raised from seeds sown after they are 
ripe. The leaves have a strong, offensive smell, and a very 
bitter, nauseous taste : the flower equally bitter, but lc is nause- 
ous. Wormwood is a moderately warm stomachic and corrob- 
orant, and for these purposes it was formerly in common use, 
but it has now given place to bitters of a less ungrateful kind. 
Wormwood was formerly much used by brewers instead of 
Hops, to give the bitter taste to their malt liquors, and to pre- 
serve them. This plant very powerfully resists putrefaction, 
and is made a principal ingredient in antiseptic fomenta- 
tions. 

APPLICATION OF OUR REMARKS TO VARIOUS PARTS OF 
THE UNITED STATES. 

The word Spring, when applied to the Season, is everywhere 
known. When thus applied by us in the preceding pages, it 
is intended to convey to the reader the period of the year 
when the buds of the earliest trees appear green. Early in 
Spring is indicated by the buds on the trees beginning to 
swell. Late in Spring, when the leaves have put forth. 

About Philadelphia. Spring generally begins from the 10th 
to the 15th of March. 

In South Carolina, the northern parts of Georgia and Ala- 
bama. Spring begins five weeks earlier than it does with us. 

In the southern parts of Virginia and Kentucky. Spring 
generally opens about the 20th of February. 

In Massachusetts and the upper part of New York. Spring 
opens from the 25th of March to the first of April. 

Bv these observations being kept in view, the details of this 
work may be made applicable to any part of the United 
States 



FRUITS. 



This subject has engrossed the attention of scientific and 
practical men for the last four hundred years. We do not 
presume to enter into their speculations and investigations ; 
our object is a much humbler one — to give a few simple and 
practical hints on the subject of fruit culture, culled from our 
own experience, and that of one or two individuals upon whose 
judgment we can place reliance. There are few. even of those 
who have studied the nature and character of fruits, that, out 
of their own collection, know, at first sight, many varieties ; 
and such is the diversity of taste, that we greatly question if 
five individuals out of one hundred could be procured that 
would agree as to the best six Apples, Pears, Peaches or 
Grapes, This incongruity entirely disconcerts the inquiring 
amateur, gardener, or farmer : but the reason of it is evident. 
The slight differences that distinguish some varieties ; the 
alterative effects that soil has upon the growth and flavor of 
others ; as well as the favorable and unfavorable results from 
situation, causing trees grafted from the same stock frequently 
to mature fruits so entirely dissimilar that they are inconsid- 
erately noticed as being something new. This desire for new 
fruit has become such a mania, that it greatly encourages the 
introduction, both at home and from abroad, of sorts that are 
worthless, compared with our old well-tried kinds. These are 



149 



also witheringly discarded by some croakers, who raise the 
physiological cry of " the old kinds wearing out." This reas- 
oning is not from analogy, but is merely a supposition. It 
would be a very easy task to renew any worn-out tree, that 
had only a few fresh and sound buds left : or even to renovate 
trees that are in a declining state : in the former case by bud- 
ding or grafting upon young stocks that have been grown from 
the seed : in the latter, by scraping off the old bark from the 
trunk and branches, and renewing the soil about the roots. 
Our object, however, is not to enter into a detail of the causes, 
effects, and diseases of trees, and their remedies. These sub- 
jects are elaborately treated of in the periodicals of the day. 
Our object is to lay before our readers a really select catalogue 
of sded fruits, that will be eatable the whole year, from which 
more pleasure will be derived than by cultivating acres con- 
taining trees not two alike, at least in name. TTe say differ- 
ing only in name, for the cultivator will find that some fruits 
are grown under from three to thirty names, so that after select- 
ing with care one hundred kinds of fruit, there may prove te 
be not fifty distinct, and one-half of these not worth culture. 
The fruit catalogues of the present day are very imposing 
bundles of paper and ink. got up to allay the appetite for new 
fruits. Those whose sole object is to grow for domestic use 
or for sale, should select such as agree with the climate of the 
locality, and are known to be both good and productive. Such 
are those we now introduce, premising that we are under obli- 
gations to Mr. Thos. Hancock, an eminent orchardist and 
nurseryman of Burlington. X. J., both for descriptions of fruits 
and their characteristic beauties or defects. They are all pro- 
pagated either by grafting or budding : and as it is our desire 
that all our readers should know how to propagate, and by 
what means to perpetuate every variety of fruit, we will briefly 
detail the operations. 



150 BUIST'S FAMILY KITCHEN GARDENER. 

Grafting. — Whip or tongue grafting (Fig. 18) 
is the mode most in use in the best fruit-tree 
nurseries, and is so called from the manner of 
cutting both the stock and scion in a sloping di- 
rection, on one of their sides, so that when brought 
together they fit exactly, and thus may be tied 
together. In former times this species of graft- 
ing was performed without a slit or tongue, and 
in that case the former term was more applicable. 
Subsequently the slit or tongue has been added, 
which has given rise to the latter term. "The 
scion (or shoot, a) and stock (or tree, b) being 
cut off obliquely, at corresponding angles as near 
as the operator can judge, make a slit nearly in 
the centre of the sloping face of the stock down- 
wards, and a corresponding tongue in the scion Fi~r. 18. 
upwards — this is called tongueing : the tongue, or wedge-like 
process, forming the upper part of the sloping face of the scion, 
is then inserted downwards in the cleft of the stock, the inner 
barks of both being brought closely to unite on one side, so as 
not to be displaced by tying, which ought to be done immedi- 
ately with strong cotton twist, tape, or any thready material, 
brought in a neat manner several times round the stalk. The 
next operation is to clay the whole over, an inch thick on every 
side, from about half an inch below the bottom of the graft to 
as much over the top of the stock, finishing the whole in a 
long, oval form, and closing it effectually in every part to ex- 
clude air and water, which is the sole object of claying. 
Grafting Clay is very simply made of any heavy loam pro- 
cured from a depth of the soil that has not been subject to 
culture, combined with a fourtn of droppings from the horse 
or cow stable, moistened and well beat together with a stick, 
till perfectly incorporated and tough, allowed to stand for a 
few days, and then softened for use. These materials are al- 
ways at command : there are several kinds of grafting wax. but 




FRUITS. 



15 1 



they are not so easily prepared, and of no more utility than th8 
clay. Grafting can be performed close to the ground, and 
earth drawn up round the junction, which will be as serviceable 
as clay. 

Cleft Grafting (Fig. 19) is another method of 
operating upon large trees, or stocks, where the 
bark or rind is not too thick. The head of the 
stock, or branch, being cut off smoothly, a slit 
is made in the top of the stock with a strong 
knife or chisel, deep enough to receive the scion, 
which should be cut sloping, like a wedge, so 
as to fit the slit made in the stock. The wedge 
side, which is to be placed outward, is to be made 
thicker than the other ; and in placing the scion 
into the slit, it must be so adjusted that the rind 
or inner bark of the scion joins that of the stock ; pig. 19. 
for if these do not unite, the grafts will not succeed. When 
the stocks are large, two grafts may be put in, (as represented 
in the figure,) which tie firmly and clay over, as directed for 
Whip Grafting. As there will be a greater body of clay, in 
this case, it will be more liable to fall off : it will therefore be 
necessary to wrap moss, soft hay, or pieces of cloth roun 1 t T ie 
balls, to prevent the rain destroying them. There are many 
other methods of grafting, all on the same principle differently 
applied. Some of our amateur correspondents, particularly 
John A. Crawford, Esq., of Columbia. S. 0., takes large limbs 
two or three inches in diameter, and five to ten feet long, and 
grafts them into other stocks. These limbs produce fruit the 
same season. Root grafting is also practised to a considerable 
extent. Trees and stocks for grafting upon should always be 
fully established before being operated upon, having had at 
least one season's growth. Farmers may graft in every field, 
and hedge-row, and by every fence-rail. Fruit trees require 
no more room than the cumberers of the ground in the shape 
of saplings, briars, and thorns. Fruits make an ample return 
7* 




152 



buist's family kitchen gardener. 



while the latter requires food for which they do not pay. There 
is no garden or farm but should have a few reserve Plum. 
Pear, Apple, Peach, Cherry and Quince stocks, on which they 
can place any sort of fruit they wish to preserve and multiply. 
These can be readily procured by sowing a few seeds, or plant- 
ing a few pits, every year. Stone fruit, such as the Cherry, 
Peach and Plum, do best by budding. Apples and Pears do 
well by both grafting and budding. Budding is performed as 
follows : 

Budding. — The operation may be performed with any sharp, 
thin-bladed knife, though one called a " budding-knife," with 
a thin ivory handle, is best for the purpose. It should be in- 
serted about half an inch above the bud, and passing about 
one-fourth of the way through the wood of the shoot, come out 
again about the same distance below it, the cut being as clean 
as possible. The portion of the bark in the centre of which 
the bud is situated is called the shield ; and when removed, it 
contains a portion of the wood, which is to be carefully re- 
moved with the point of the knife, as shown in Fig. 20 ; if the 
wood is dry, and does not separate readily, it is a sign the bud 
is too old, and it should be rejected. 

Fig. 20. 



Fig. 21. 



Fig. 22. 



When the wood is too 
old or too young, the shield 
may be taken off only about 
one-eighth of the way 
through the shoot, and in- 
serted into the stock with- 
out removing the portion 
of the wood it contains: 
this method, particularly 
with very young shoots, is 
very successful. If it is 
necessary to transport the 
buds to some distance, thi? may be safely done by cutting a 




FRUITS. 



153 



portion of the shoot and, after cutting off the foliage, wrap 
them up in dampjnoss, a few large leaves, or wet paper, when 
they may be kept for three or four days. In applying the bud 
to the stock, an incision is to be made lengthwise through the 
bark (but not so as to injure the wood), about an inch in 
length ; and this is to be diagonally crossed at the top by an- 
other incision, as shown in Fig. 2 1 . The thin ivory handle, 
or back of the knife, should then be used to raise the bark, 
as shown in Fig. 22, and the shield inserted within, gently 
pressing it to the bottom of the perpendicular incision. When 
it is properly placed, the portion of it above the diagonal cross 
should be cut off, as in Fig. 23, and great care should be taken 
that the bud is in close contact with the wood of the stock. 
When this is done, bind it up with damp matting, or cotton 
twist, all except the bud, (see Fig. 24.) which must be left 
free to the air, but protected from the powerful action of the 
sun or wet, either of which would defeat the whole opera- 



tion. In two weeks the sue- pig. 23. Fig. 24. 

cess or failure will be known, 
when the bandages must be 
loosened, though not entirely 
taken away. From July to 
the middle of September bud- 
ding may be done, choosing 
always cloudy weather, or a 
few days after a heavy rain ; 
but, for limited operations, 
any evening may be chosen, 
always following the indica- 
tion of the free parting of the 
wood from the bark ; for if the bark does not rise with facility, 
the buds are liable to perish for want of a due supply of nour- 
ishment. The buds should always be selected from vigorous 
young wood, that has nearly done growing. Cut off the 
leaves, allowing about half an inch of the footstalk to remain 




154 



host's family kitchen gardener. 



for the convenience of inserting the buds. Early in the en 
suing Spring, the stocks on which those buds are that have 
taken, should be headed down to within two inches of the bud, 
which will then grow rapidly, and must be tied in an upright 
form to the portion of the stock left above the eye for that 
purpose. When it has made a good growth, and during the 
month of July or August, the stock should be cut off close 
to the shoot by a sloping back cut. when it will soon be cov- 
ered with the growth of the wood. Those stocks that have not 
taken, should be grafted as soon in the Spring as that opera- 
tion can be performed. 

Preparation of Scions. — These are usually selected from 
the young wood of the previous season's growth, as well as 
those of one or even two years : though the former is to be 
preferred, and should be taken from the outside branches that 
have been fully exposed to the sun and air. They should be 
cut from the parent tree, any time from J anuary to the period 
of growth. When they are collected, label each sort correctly, 
and place them in the ground, covered to within an inch of 
their tops, till the season of grafting arrives, which is just be- 
fore the buds open to growth. Cut the scions into lengths of 
from three to five eyes : and where there is an abundance, use 
•the middle portion of the shoot only. 

Planting. — This season extends from the first of November 
till the swelling of the buds in Spring. Autumnal planting 
is to be preferred in light, dry soils : and Spring planting in 
retentive and heavy soils. Any time during the "Winter sea- 
son will do, when neither frost nor snow prevents the opera- 
tion : but do not at any time expose the roots of trees in 
frosty, dry, windy weather : and in lifting trees, always retain 
as many of the fibres as practicable, and cut off neatly all that 
are bruised : with these precautions, trees from five to fifteen 
years old may be safely removed. We have seen entire or- 



FRUITS. 



v 55 



chards totally ruined at first by careless planting. In some> 
the trees lying to one side just as chance or the wind made 
them : in others, the trees hard-looking and bark-bound by 
deep planting. The former is sheer neglect in securing the 
tree to a stake ; the latter, misapplied care. Writers on the 
subject say, " Dig a pit eighteen inches or two feet deep, and 
fill it up with rich compost ; plant the tree therein one or two 
inches deeper than it was in the nursery row." This looks ver} 
well, but when applied it proves a grave to thousands. In the first 
place, the hole is much too deep : the soil, being all loose and 
fresh, decomposes, and falls down a few inches, taking the tree 
with it, so that in two years (just when the tree should put 
forth luxuriantly) it falls into the pit prepared for it, never to 
recover. Dig the pit or hole fully one foot deep, and three or 
four feet wide : break and prepare the soil well, in which place 
on its top your tree, over which lay a load of well prepared 
soil, sufficient to cover the roots entirely. Place a strong sup- 
port to the tree, to prevent the wind disturbing the roots. 
The soil will settle, but not so as to take the roots of the tree 
into a tub of clay ; they will always be on the surface, where 
nature intended them. As the tree will now rely on the new, 
vigorous fibres, which will be produced in its new station, if 
the soil be fine, moist, and warmed by the sun's influence, no 
fears need be entertained but that they will come forth to 
carry on the growth of the plant. Many trees have to be pro- 
cured from a distance, perhaps thousands of miles. If nursery 
trees, they are generally packed in bundles, — packed is perhaps 
too business-like an expression, — they are tied like a bundle of 
fuel for the kitchen. Trees that have to be sent a great dis- 
tance should be packed in boxes. The purchaser had bet- 
ter pay twice the cost of such, to have it done, as they are fre- 
quently as dry as rods when they come to hand. In such a 
case, have the trees soaked in water a few hours, and cover 
them up in wet straw or hay for twelve hours more : then 
puddle their roots in earth made to the consistency r jf thin 



156 



buist's family kitchen gardener. 



mush. Plant thein out in their proper places, an< give the 
stems and branches a syringing with water every dav till they 
have begun to grow, and occasionally afterwards. It you have 
not got a syringe j use a bowl, a basin, or any other p+ensil that 
will distribute the water. 



ALMOND. 

Amy'gdalus communis. — Amandier. Fr. — Mandelbaum, Grer. 

Tms fruit is a native of China and other eastern countries. 
In the south of Europe it is cultivated to a great extent, for 
export, and several thousand tons are annually brought to this 
country. It could, however, be very readily cultivated in the 
latitudes and soils of Virginia and North Carolina, It is one 
of the fruits mentioned in the history of the Israelites, and was 
held in great esteem by the ancients. The tree is very simi- 
lar to the Peach, in growth, blossom, and fruit ; the flower, 
however, is much larger and more ornamental. The kernel 
(which is the only valuable part of the fruit) enters largely 
into confectionery of every kind. The toilet, too, is furnished 
with oils of various names extracted from it, such as Milk 
of Roses, Macassar Oil, Russia Oil, Kalydore, &c. There 
are several varieties of the fruit, but all known as Bitter and 
Sweet Almonds. 

Sidtane is a thin-shelled Sweet Almond ; nut about an inch 
in length, firm, oval ; shell light-colored, tender, and very po- 
rous : kernel rich and sweet. 

Jordan or Thick- Shelled. — Size of the former : shell light 
colored, smooth and porous ; kernel rich and very sweet. 

Amy'gdalis amara is the Bitter Almond. Fruit very similar 
fco the others ; shell hard : kernel bitter ; used for condiments, 
and by wine-bibbers to allay the fumes of wine. 

Propagation and Culturp:. — -The Aim Hid is propagated by 



APPLE. 



J57 



the kernel or seed, when the object is to obtain new varieties, 
in the same manner as the Peach. It can be perpetuated by 
budding, and is most permanent when grown upon the Plum 
stock ; but in a dry, sandy soil, they will do best on their own 
stock. As a general rule, soil that grows the Peach will suit 
the Almond. See article Peach. 

Gathering of the Fruit. — The fruit should be allowed to 
remain on the tree until the rind opens and becomes quite 
brown, and the kernels firm and solid, when it may be gath- 
ered and gradually dried till the shell becomes hard, after 
which it may be stored away for use. 



APPLE. 

Pyrus Mains.- — Pomme, Pr. — Apfel, Ger. 

Of all the fruits cultivated in this country, the Apple is 
undoubtedly the most valuable. It is the fruit of the Peasant 
and the President, of the rich and the poor ; and is suited to 
346,500 square miles of the United States. At what period 
it became known is involved in obscurity. It is a native of 
several countries and peculiarly so of this ; and the delightful 
odor of the Wild Crab of Virginia, when in bloom, is grate- 
fully remembered by every traveler who passes that region in 
March and April. The tree is naturally long-lived ; history 
asserts that it has been known to live " over a thousand years," 
though we would rather ascribe to it one-fourth of that period. 
There is no climate in the world where the Apple is brought 
to such perfection as in "this. It can be had in perfection 
throughout the year, forming always an agreeable and luxuri- 
ous addition to the food of man. The fruit, when ripe, is lax- 
ative ; and when boiled or roasted it "has been fcund service- 
able in cases of weakness and indigestion, as also in putrid and 
malignant fevers. 



4 



158. 



BUST'S FAMILY KITCHEN GARDENER. 



The constitution of the Apple is adapted to every kind of 
soil. There are known to be about eight hundred varieties in 
cultivation, three-fourths of which are not worth attention, and 
of the remaining fourth, the following list contains all that 
are really excellent. We introduce to the notice of our read- 
ers such varieties only as have been tested and can be relied 
upon for a crop, comprising a succession from the earliest to 
the latest. Every person will understand our expressions of 
large, medium, small, round, flat, oval and long, when applied 
to the Apple, its size and character being so familiar to civil- 
ized man. 

Summer Apples. Early Harvest, Prince's Harvest, Yellow 
Harvest, &c. — This is the best early American Apple at pres- 
ent known, being a healthy growing tree, and a great bearer. 
Fruit of a pale yellow color, round form, medium size, skin 
waxy, smooth, with faint pale dots. Flesh tender and very 
juicy, of a sprightly, crisp flavor. Ripe early in July : fit for 
either dessert or cooking. 

Striped Harvest.— A. beautiful American variety, of excel- 
lent growth and very productive, takes the market well. 
Fruit under medium size, of a pale-yellow color, striped with 
red, profusely so next the sun, round form. Flesh very juic^ 
and tender, of a superior flavor. A dessert fruit, ripe in July. 

Sevan's Favorite.— An American fruit of great beauty : a 
constant bearer and of free growth. Fruit flat, greenish-yel- 
low, highly colored with bright red, medium size. Flesh crisp, 
juicy, of a yellow- white color. Ripe from the middle to the 
end of July. 

Bough, or Large Yellow Bough, is perhaps the finest look- 
ing fruit brought to our market, for which purpose we expressly 
notice it. We think it too large for the table, and it is not 
fit for the kitchen. Fruit large, oval, of a pale greenish-yel- 
low. Flesh pure white, tender, sweet and crisp. Ripo in 
July and August. 

Early Red Margaret, or Red Juneating. — An American 



APPLE. 



.59 



sort, of excellent qualities. Fruit medium size, of an oval 
form, pale green color, freely striped with dark red. Flesh 
yellow-white, of a very agreeable flavor, fit for the dessert or 
kitchen. Ripe in August. 

Summer Pear main , or Autumn Pear-main of some. — This is 
the very best fruit in its season, and has been long known in 
this vicinity. Tree of slender growth but well formed : a reg- 
ular bearer. Fruit long oval, medium size, of a russety-yellow 
color, shaded with green and red. Flesh firm, brownish-yel- 
low, crisp, juicy, and high flavored : suitable for the dessert or 
kitchen. Ripe in August and early September. 

Maiden's Blush. — Supposed to be an American variety. 
Exceedingly beautiful: a great bearer, of good habit, Fruit 
medium size, flat ; color pale yellow with a bright red cheek, 
or if grown in the shade, tinted with blush. Flesh white, ten- 
der, with a pleasant flavor. In use from August to October, 
and fit for either the table or kitchen. 

Hawthomden. — A very popular Scotch Apple : a great and 
early bearer, fairly maintaining its character in this country:' 
it is of dwarf growth and spreading form. Fruit very similar 
in size and shape to the former, though not so highly colored 
Flesh pure white, juicy, and mild flavored, suitable for either 
the table or cooking. Ripe from August to October. 

Fall Apples. Rambo. or Red Seek-no-further, is one of our 
most valuable varieties for the market, table, or kitchen, and 
is a native of this vicinity. Fruit about medium size, flat, 
with a smooth, yellow-white skin, marbled and speckled with 
rough red spots. Flesh yellowish-white, rich, and sprightly. 
In use from September to November. 

Fall Pippin, or Holland Pippin of some. — Whoever has vis- 
ited Philadelphia market in September and October has seen 
this Apple. Fruit large, round, of a fine, smooth, greenish- 
yellow color, with an occasional blush. Flesh white, mellow, 
spicy, rich and tender. Very popular for either the dessert or 
kitchen. 



160 



buist's family kitchen gardener. 



White Seek-no-further. — A very popular variety ; trees of free 
growth and good bearing. Fruit round, rather tapering to- 
wards the eye, of a yellowish-white color ; skin smooth, with 
russety spots. Flesh yellow, rich, juicy and tender. A table 
fruit of great excellence ; in use from September to No- 
vember. 

Bell-flower, or Yellow Bell-flower of some, is everywhere es- 
teemed for its many good qualities. It is one of the most pro- 
lific bearers, and, being a native, well adapted for general cul- 
ture. Fruit very large, of a conical form ; color creamy-yellow, 
with a few brown spots. Flesh tender, juicy, crisp, with a 
sprightly flavor, having a large core. Fit for the table or 
kitchen. In use from September to December. 

Autumn Pearmain, or Winter Fearmain. — This variety is 
not excelled by any of our Fall or Winter fruits. Wood of 
slender growth, but producing great crops. Fruit oblong, 
medium size, of a yellowish color, stained and mottled with a 
brownish-red. Flesh pale lemon-yellow, tender, with an agree- 
able, aromatic flavor. Fit for dessert or cooking. Ripe in 
October to January. 

Winter Apples. Cumberland Spice, or White Bell-flower 
of some, is a general favorite, producing great crops. Fruit 
oblong, large size, tapering towards the eye ; of a yellowish- 
white color, marked with a few reddish-brown dots, having a 
large core. Flesh white, very juicy, tender, with a delicately 
agreeable flavor. In use from October to February. 

Bullocks Pippin, or Sheep-Nose. — This is a productive vari- 
ety, universally cultivated for its luscious flavor. Fruit con- 
ical, of a yellow russety color, footstalk long. Flesh yellow, 
very tender, mild, rich, and juicy. An American sort, in eat- 
ing from October to J anuary. It is called by Eastern growers 
''-Golden Russet, 11 confounding it with the well-known old 
Apple of that name, to which it has no affinity. 

Wine Apple, or Hatfs Apple. — Well known in this vicinity 
as a superb Winter fruit, of large size : of a round, flattened 



APPLE. 



161 



form, skin yellow, nearly covered with bright red. Flesh yel 
lowish-white. crisp, and juicy, with a vinous and pleasant fla- 
vor. A table and kitchen fruit, in use from October to 
January. 

Rhode Island Greening.— A favorite fruit, extensively culti- 
vated, and produces immense crops in almost every variety of 
soil. Fruit large, round, very regular form, with a smooth, 
dark green skin. Flesh yellow, close, sprightly, with a slightly 
aromatic flavor. In use for the kitchen or table from October 
to J anuary. 

Roman Stem —A great favorite in Xew Jersey, where it is 
very productive, forming a very handsome, round-headed tree. 
Fruit round, medium size, of a pale yellow color, with a few 
reddish specks. Flesh delicate, with a rich, juicy, agreeable 
flavor. Ripe from November to March, and fit for either the 
table or cooking. 

jEsopus Spitzenburg. — There is perhaps not a fruit in the 
whole catalogue more beautiful to look upon than this variety, 
and it is second to none in quality. Fruit large, partially ob- 
long : skin smooth, of a yellowish-green, and nearly covered 
with brilliant red. Flesh yellow, crisp and juicy, of a rich 
flavor, with a large core. Pupe in November to January. 

Monmouth Pippin. — I have not seen an Apple for many 
years that so much riveted my attention as this, at the Exhi- 
bition of the Xew Jersey Horticultural Society, in 1846. The 
tree is of excellent habit, and a good bearer. Fruit over me- 
dium size, roundish, flat ; smooth, russety-green skin, marked 
with dots of brown. Flesh firm, yellow-white, crisp, juicy anc 
high flavored. In use from November to March. Fit for the 
dessert or the kitchen. 

Baldwin. — A celebrated Apple of the Eastern States, where 
the tree is reputed to be a great bearer, and cultivated exten- 
sively for the market, sending us a supply every season. Fruit 
round, rather conical, of a yellow ground, covered with crimson 
and red, having a few russet spots and streaks. Flesh yellow 



162 



buist's family kit?hen gardener. 



crisp, and of a peculiarly rich flavor. Ripe from November to 
February. An excellent table fruit. 

Newton Pippin. — There are two varieties of this prince of 
fruits, the Yellow and the Green, differing in color, very much 
alike in form, though the Yellow appears to be a little flatter 
than the Green. Fruit medium size, round, obscurely ribbed 
towards the eye, of a dull yellow-green, with a brownish blush 
on one side, slightly covered with brown dots. Flesh firm, 
yellowish-white, very crisp, juicy, having an exceedingly pecu- 
liar rich flavor. For eating or cooking it has as yet no equal. 
In use from November to May, retaining all its aroma till the 
last. A native of Long Island, where the original tree, I be- 
lieve, still exists. It requires a rich, loamy soil. 

Lady Apple. — A very popular variety, introduced from 
France, and is generally cultivated as a leading Winter fruit 
which it produces in clusters. The tree is of an elegant, up- 
right, strong growth. Fruit small, regularly round, though 
rather flattened ; color bright yellow, with a lively dark red 
cheek. Flesh white, tender, juicy and crisp. A valuable 
market variety, in use from December to April. 

Tewksbury Winter Blush. — A handsome American fruit, 
not equalled for long keeping by any other sort. A great 
bearer and of good growth. Fruit of medium size, round, flat 
form ; skin smooth, yellow, with a bright red cheek. Flesh 
yellowish-white, juicy, and well flavored. In use from J anu- 
ary to July. 

Cider Apples. Winesap is a great bearer, grows freely 
though rather straggling, and is extensively grown in the 
sandy soils of New Jersey. Fruit medium size, roundish, yel- 
low, almost entirely covered with dull red. Flesh yellow, firm, 
crisp, juicy, and high flavored. A Winter fruit. 

Harrison. — A handsome growing tree of New Jersey, of the 
very highest character as a Cider Apple, producing large 
crops. Fruit medium size, round-oval ; yellow, with rough, 
black specks. Flesh yellow, rich flavor. Ripe in November. 



APPLE. 



163 



Hagloe Crab. — A celebrated fruit for early use, either for 
cider or the kitchen. It is a strong grower and an abundant 
bearer. Fruit medium size, flat, greenish -yellow streaked 
with red. Flesh soft, juicy, with a rich flavor. Eipe in Au- 
gust and September. 

Siberian Crab. — This variety is cultivated exclusively for 
preserving, being very small, with a clear, waxy skin, either 
Yellow or Red. there being two varieties. The Red makes a 
very ornamental tree when loaded wMi its brilliant fruit, be- 
ing like so many pendant garnets. 

Culture. — The best soil for the Apple is that of a loamy, 
friable nature, avoiding sand and clay, in either of which this 
tree is short-lived. The finest trees and orchards are planted 
on a deep, sandy loam, either on a dry bottom or having a 
good descent for carrying off the water. It is not our purpose 
to go into an elaborate detail of the management of an orchard : 
that would only confuse and mystify : our aim is to state only 
what is essential, and to do it with brevity and precision 
There is no country that possesses greater advantages of cli- 
mate for fruit culture than the United States : yet, as we have 
stated, we see fine young trees left to the mercy of the elements 
without any support : we see no disposition to arrange or form 
the head : no hand to thin out the crops : all, all is left to na- 
ture : even the soil has no annual or tri-annual material given 
to keep it in a state to yield a regular and continued crop. 
The trees, in consequence, get distorted, the limbs broken down 
with their harvest to their lazy lords : and then commences 
the " besom of destruction,"' to annihilate their existence, with 
saw and axe to cut off their broken branches : disease takes 
hold of the tree, and it comes to a premature old age. having 
not lived half its days. Such has been the fate of many an 
orchard, and such is the treatment most frequently pursued in 
the present day. The first object of attention in planting an or 
ehard. ought to be to have the grourd well ploughed, deep — 



164 



BUIST'S FAMILY kitchen gardener. 



even trench-ploughed. Manure heavily, put on a Potato or 
Corn crop the year previous to planting out, and cultivate it 
freely the whole season. The soil will then be in order to re- 
ceive the trees. Plant them from forty to fifty feet apart, 
giving the tree at once a strong support, to prevent its being 
tossed with the winds. Tie between the tree and the stake 
some soft material, which will keep the bark from being chafed. 
Experience teaches thai all young orchards should be culti- 
vated and cropped with any kind of grain or root crops except- 
ing grass or hay. After the trees have come into a good bear- 
ing state, grass is not at all objectionable ; but as soon as the 
trees show any indications of a meagre and stunted growth, 
the ground should be well enriched in the vicinity of their 
roots. We see no reason why fruit trees should not occupy 
the space allowed for brush and saplings around the fields and 
about the fences. It cannot be the cost, for that is a mere 
trifle. Every farmer may at least grow a part, and should 
have a few reserve trees by him every year. It is merely be- 
cause it is customary to allow these " weeds of the forest" to 
grow in place of luscious fruit. 

Pruning. — This object is generally considered a labor, in- 
stead of a pleasant pastime. We can never admit that it is 
necessary to use an axe and a saw to prune a tree, more espe- 
cially a fruit tree ; that treatment belongs to the dark ages. 
A strong pruning:knife, good Bands, with a judicious head, are 
the accompaniments of the orchardist. Cut off all cross 
branches, shorten those that stretch out beyond the general 
outline of the tree ; thin out all superabundant wood, to allow 
the permanent branches and shoots to be from six to twelve 
inches apart. It will rarely be necessary to cut off a shoot 
of one inch in diameter. 

Insects. — We are not aware of any destructive enemy to 
the Apple tree that cannot be kept under by a moderate share 
of vigilance. The Borer, a white, fleshy grul that commits 



APR . COT. 



165 



its depredations just at the surface of the ground, perforating 
every part of the stem, is the greatest enemy. Heaping round 
the tree, during the month of May. about eight inches of coal 
ashes, lime, or sand, will greatly prevent it. These heaps 
must be spread down again in October or November. It is 
said that by putting a peck of hot lime about the stem of a 
tree that is affected by this grub, it will be entirely restored. 
Naturalists say that this insect [Sapenda bivittata) remains 
two or three years in the tree, and comes out in a butterfly 
form in June, flying about at night and depositing its eggs on 
the tree close to the surface of the ground. 

Caterpillars may be kept under (and in fact it is the only 
way to do it) by destroying their nests early in the morning, or 
about noon. If they are allowed to progress, they will soon 
cover an orchard : while, when taken in time, they are very 
readily destroyed. 

Gathering the Fruit. — Hand-picking is undoubtedly the 
best way of collecting the fruit, and whether for family use or 
the market, the superior quality and appearance of such will 
command a price that will more than cover the expense. 
Early fruits" should be handled very carefully. Winter fruits 
may remain on the tree till the approach of frost, when they 
should be collected, and those for sale put into good barrels 
at once, to be conveyed to market when required. Those in- 
tended for family use should be placed in a dry shed for two 
weeks, and then carefully wiped with a cloth, and put away in 
a dry cellar, free from frost. Those that are required to keep 
till May and June should be packed in dry sand, or some 
other material, to exclude them from the air. 

THE APRICOT. 

Prunus armenica. — Abricotier. Fr. — Apnkosenbaum, Ger. 

The Apricot is one of the most beautiful of fruits, and has 
been cultivated for about eighteen hundred years. It is a na- 



RUIST's FAMILY KITCHEN GARDENER. 



tive of China and Japan, growing in great abundance on the 
dry mountains of those countries. Some travelers also men- 
tion of its being found in Egypt. The fruit is much esteemed 
for making marmalades, jellies, and preserves. In its plain 
state it is considered wholesome and strengthening. In Europe 
it attains to very great perfection, though with us it never ap- 
pears to grow to that size we have so frequently seen it there. 
A Moorpark Apricot, twelve inches in circumference, is a very 
imposing fruit, compared with the nut-like productions usually 
seen in our markets. It ripens at a very desirable period of 
the season, between the period of the late Cherries and early 
Peaches. We introduce the following as the best sorts : 

Breda. — A small fruit, about four inches in circumference, 
very abundant, round form, deep brown-orange color, with a 
few blush spots towards the sun. Flesh deep orange, separat- 
ing from the stone ; flavor good, kernel sweet, which is a dis 
tinguishing character in this variety. 

Hemskirke. — Fruit medium size (two inches diameter), of a 
round form, color bright orange. Flesh dark orange ; flavor 
very juicy and rich. Tree of vigorous growth and an abundant 
bearer. 

Moorpark.- — It is admitted that this variety is the best of the 
family, and is universally cultivated. I have seen a tree of this 
sort that covered a wall sixteen feet high and one hundred feet 
long. Its growth in this climate is not so free as the former, bat 
it is a greater bearer, and always produces a crop. Size, the 
largest from two to four inches in diameter ; color pale yel- 
low ; form round-oval ; flesh bright orange ; separating freely 
from the stone ; flavor very rich. Growth strong ; eyes close ; 
foliage large. Delights in * deep, sandy loam. Ripe about the 
middle of July. The whoto of this class of fruits ripen in 
this month, with us ; but >f picked before being fully ripe and 
put into an ice-house they will be in eating two weeks longer. 

Peach Apricot or Abric<>< peche, of the French. — There is 
very little difference between this variety and the former: in- 



APRICOT. 



167 



deed it is so trifling that very few could detect it. It possesses 
the same characters and ripens at the same time, but the wood 
has not the eyes so closely set on it, nor is the foliage so heart- 
shaped. One grand essential to the production of fine Apri- 
cots is to thin out the fruit well, not allowing it to remain 
within two or three inches of each other. There are about 
ten other varieties of the Apricot, but all inferior, so far as 
has been tested by us, to those now described. 

Culture. — This tree rarely succeeds well in this country 
unless protected by a wall or fence : not that it does not grow 
as a standard, like other fruit trees, but in that position it 
rarely matures a crop, except in city gardens, the early Spring 
frosts destroying the blossoms. It should be placed on an 
east, west, or north aspect, avoiding a south. It requires a 
good, rich, sandy, loamy soil. The Curcuiio appears to be 
particularly fond of the fruit. 

Pruning may be entirely dispensed with after the tree is 
formed, merely keeping the branches within bounds, and train- 
ing the shoots in any required direction. As a standard, in 
city gardens, it is both useful and ornamental, being the first 
tree in bloom of the season, having a large, shining, green 
foliage, and generally producing a good crop. 

Propagation. — It is too frequently budded on the Peach 
stock by nurserymen. On such it is short-lived, not constitu- 
tionally so, but the stock on which it depends for life fails in 
a few years, unless the Borer be prevented from attacking it. 
The best, and indeed the only stock that should be used, is 
the Plum, on which it should be budded in July or August, 
and on it will grow half a century. Very good fruit can be 
raised by planting the stones, in the same manner as the 
Peach. 



8 



168 buist's family kitchen gardener. 



CHERRY. 

Cerasus, var. — Cerisier, Fr. — Kirsckenba m : Ger. 

Some species of the Cherry is native to every temperate 
climate. History records its culture before the Christian era. 
It is the earliest of our stone fruits, and comes into use about 
the 8th or 20th of June, according to the season. The tree is 
of great diversity of habit, size and shape. The fruit, too, 
possesses every variety of flavor, from the most tart to a honey 
sweet. In cookery and distillation it is compounded into end- 
less forms. In ancient and modern times it is peculiarly a 
wayside tree — an avenue of Cherry trees characterizing the 
dwellings of the great in the loth century. The medicinal 
properties of the fruit are rather vague, though it is considered 
wholesome. Its gum is supposed to be nearly equal to the 
gum arabic of commerce. The wood is extensively used in 
domestic cabinet work. There are nearly a hundred varieties^ 
whose qualities may all be embraced in half a dozen sorts. 

Bigarreau. — Color pale yellow, with red cheek, and when 
fully ripe, of a bright amber ; large size, irregularly heart- 
shaped. Flesh firm, adhering to the stone ; rich and high fla- 
vored. Stalk about two inches long ; growth strong and up- 
right. A great bearer ; hangs long on the tree. Ripe about 
the 4th of July. 

Black Tartarian, or Black Circassian.— Fr wit very large ; 
irregularly heart-shaped ; of a shining black color when fully 
ripe ; stalk an inch and a half long. Flesh dark purple, very 
rich and juicy ; stone quite small. Ripe from the 20th to the 
end of June. The finest Black Cherry that is grown. A 
handsome tree, of rapid growth and large foliage. 

Carnation. — Color a bright, shining, waxy, marbled red; 
fine round form : stalk short and stout. Flesh tender when 
fully ripe, of a rich sub-acid flavor. One of the best cooking 



CHERRY. 



169 



varieties. Ripe about the first of July, and hangs long on the 
tree ; a good hearer. Tree low-growing and round-headed. 

Elton. — Color pale, waxy yellow, cheek next the sun of a 
shining, pale red, mottled, or streaked. The very largest size, 
heart-shaped ; stalk one and a half to two inches long. Flesh, 
when fully ripe, tender, juicy and of the very best flavor. 
Ripe about the 20th of June. Tree of strong growth and 
regular form, foliage large. 

Kentish. — There are several varieties that go under this 
name, such as May Cherry, Early Richmond, Flemish of some. 
There is also a Late Kentish, or Pie Cherry, very common. 
The sort we now allude to is the Early Kentish, or Early 
Richmond. It generally produces its fruit in pairs, of a fine 
dark red color when ripe. Stalk about an inch long, adhering 
to the stone. Flesh juicy, of a rather sharp, acid flavor. Ripe 
from the 15th to 25th of June. A low, spreading tree, in 
very general cultivation. % 

Late Duke. — Color dark red ; large size ; of a heart shape, 
rather rounding. Flesh amber colored, rich and juicy. Stone 
large, oval. Ripe, end of July. Does well in light soils. An 
excellent late variety, either for the dessert or the kitchen. 

May Duke. — Every lover of this fruit has heard of the May 
Duke Cherry, which for fine flavor, prolific bearing, and early 
ripeness, stands alone. When fully ripe it is " the Cherry" 
and should be in every garden or orchard. Color very dark 
red, round form. Flesh very juicy, rich and melting ; stone 
small ; a great bearer ; tree regularly formed, wood short and 
full of spurs. Ripe about the 8th of J une. This variety is 
invariably pulled before it is ripe. 

Morello. — The latest of all the Cherries. It hung on the 
tree with us, last year, till the 24th of August. They are so 
tart that neither birds nor bipeds partake. Fruit round ; color 
very dark, or quite black when fully ripe. Flesh very dark, 
more juicy than any other variety, and has not an equal for the 
kitchen. It is in use from the middle of July to the middle 



L70 



BUIST'S FAMILY KITCHEN GARDENER. 



of August. Tree of medium growth, round and pendulous 
form. The Common Morello is a smaller and inferior variety. 

White Bigarreau, White Heart, and Oxheart of some. — It is 
not our purpose to decide what fruits belong to these names, 
whereof so many writers disagree. Our object is to call at- 
tention to the variety that ripens about the 15th of June, just 
between the May Duke and the Elton. We cultivate it under 
the former name. Fruit heart-shaped, of a pale yellowish- 
white color, with a marbled-red on the side towards the sun. 
Flesh, when fully ripe, tender and luscious : stone large. Tree 
regularly formed, and a great bearer when fully established. 

These constitute the best of the Cherries, and such as pro- 
duce their fruit throughout the season. I am aware of the 
very high character borne by some of the new sorts, which we 
have not tested, nor have they been fully tried by others. To 
enter into a detail of such, would frustrate our object, in di- 
recting attention only to the best known for family use or the 
market. 

Culture. — A light, sandy loam, in an open exposure, is the 
best soil for the Cherry. Though we have them bearing fruit 
in both wet and dry soils, yet the finest orchards are known to 
be on a rich, sandy loam, over a gravelly bottom. TTe prefer 
planting this tree early in Spring : they will require to be 
twenty-five feet apart. The pruning is of the simplest form, 
many of the kind rarely requiring the knife, while others, as 
the Bigarreau. need to have the long, rampant shoots that 
stretch beyond the boundary of the tree shortened every Sep- 
tember, till they are formed. 

Propagation — This is done both by budding and grafting. 
The former is the most general practice of nurserymen, who 
sow yearly, in August, large quantities of the Common Black 
Cherry, about one inch deep, which vegetate freely in Spring, 
and after two years growth are fit to be budded. This is done 
in August or even the first o^ September, according to the 



UR RANT. 



171 



weather. Transplant the stocks one year before they are 
worked : they thus make more fibrous roots, and when required 
to be moved again will grow with greater certainty. 

The Cherry is brought to our markets in the most slovenly 
state, in large tubs, and frequently pulled from the stems, a 
mere compound of half-bruised, half-rotten, and half-ripe fruit, 
and of course it brings much less than its real value. Cher- 
ries should be pulled with care, having the stems all at- 
tached to the fruit, and handled as little as possible. If for 
the table, pick them a few hours before they are wanted, and 
put them in a cool place. If for the market, put them in 
shallow vessels to prevent bruising as much as possible. They 
will bring double the price of fruit in the ordinary state. 



CURRANT. 

Rzbes rubrum. — G-roseille a grappes d? outre, Fr. — 
Johannisbure. Ger. 

The Red and Black Currant of the gardens are considered 
natives of the northern parts of Europe. The Black is evi- 
dently an inhabitant of a cool climate, for it rarely produces 
its fruit in perfection, the berries falling before being ripe. 
There are several varieties of Currants natives of North Amer- 
ica, but very different in habit and character from those culti- 
vated. There are few or no medicinal virtues attached to the 
fruit. •• Currant Wine" is a beverage that was known to our 
fathers, but has been superseded by the more expensive and 
fashionable " Port and Madeira," The fruit has a pleasant, 
cooling, acid flavor, relished by most individuals when ripe. 
From it there is a very excellent jelly made, an indispensable 
condiment to many fashionable dishes of the»day. The green 
fruit is also used for tarts, but for that purpose is much infe- 
rior to Rhubarb and Gooseberries. 



172 



buist's family kitchen c a.r dener. 



Ribes nigra. ox the Black Currant, is a very rich fruit, pro- 
duced in bunches of from three to five inches long, but requires 
a moist, cool situation, shaded from the noon-day sun. There 
are stveral varieties of it. called Black Gear-:. Black Xapdes. 
and the Common Black. The fruit is made into jelly or jam. 
and much used in consumptive complaints. 

The Red Currunt is a very familiar fruit, susceptible of 
great improvement by culture, worthy of the best sare. and 
generally gets none. There are several varieties of it. at least 
it is grown under a variety of names. I have cultivated dVeuc 
Red. Knight's Ea rly Red] Red Grape, and lastly. May's Victo- 
ria, neither of which excel the old Red Dutt that I cultivated 
twenty-five years ago. Eed Currants and Raspberries make 
the finest jelly. 

Champagne. — This is a variety evidently between the Eed 
and White, of a pink color. 

White Dutch. — The White Currant is preferred for the table, 
it being more sweet and palatable than any of the other sorts. 
It grows like the two preceding, and requires the same treat- 
ment, 

Propagation and Culture, — The best mode of increasing 
this plant is by selecting cuttings of good, strong, young wood, 
about a foot long. The eyes from the lower part of the shoot, 
for about eight inches, must be cut out previous to planting, 
which will prevent suckers being thrown up from the roots 
Plant them as early in Spring as the ground can be prepared, 
or late in the Autumn, just before the ground is closed with 
the frost. A partially shaded situation is most suitable, 
though they will do in any rich, moist ground : in two years 
they will make fine plants, when they must be removed to 
where they are intended to icmain for fruiting, (suckers and 
layers should never be used',. Their after-culture is merely 
to train up the plant to one stem, about a foot high, then allow 
it to spread and ramify uniformly, but never admit it to sucker 
from the root 



173 



Pruning. — Thin out the shoots to allow all to stand free 
and clear of each other, then shorten back the young wood 
from about three to six inches of the preceding year's growth. 
This makes the bushes spur, as gardeners term it, and on 
these spurs the fruit is produced. The plant must be yearly 
supplied with manure among their roots, digging the ground 
carefully every Spring or Fall. By this treatment the fruit 
will be like bunches of Grapes, and form a great contrast to 
the meagre affairs so generally seen in our markets. Even in 
our best gardens their culture is very imperfectly attended to. 
producing fruit all skin and seeds, and giving a very faint 
idea of the richness and perfection to which it can attain. , 
Plant them eight feet apart, and if well treated they will bust 
twenty years. 



FIG. 

Ficus Cdrica. — Figui-er.Fr. — Feigenbaum. Ger. 

The Fig is one of the fruits first mentioned in history. Its 
cultivation appears to have been coeval with that of the Apple 
and the Grape. It has been admitted through all ages as an 
article of food, and some nations have been so exceedingly fond 
of the fruit that its exportation was forbidden. If history is 
to be relied on. we are retrograding in the culture and im- 
provement of the Fig. PHny. the Roman naturalist, is said 
to have accurately described about thirty sorts. It was exten- 
sively used in all ceremonies, and was presented to appease 
anger. Asia is its native country, and we read of specimens 
of the fruit having been brought from the " Land of Canaan/' 
It is cultivated to an immense extent in the south of Europe, 
and dried and exported. Many thousand tons reach this 
country that might be grown with great facility along our 
frr - *s. from North Carolina to Florida. It is not hardy 



174 



BUIST'S FAMILY KITCHEN G/RLENER. 



enough to stand our Winters without protection ; but south 
of Virginia it might be made an article of profit, independent 
of its healthful influence on the constitution. There are sup- 
posed to be about forty varieties, though we might very readily 
class them into the White, Black, and Brown. 

Black Ischia, about two inches long and two inches in diam- 
eter, rather flat towards the apex ; deep purple color. Flesh 
red, of excellent flavor, and very productive. They all ripen 
in July, August, and September ; and again a small crop in 
April and May. 

Brown Turkey, — In general culture. Size smaller than th^ 
former ; color brown ; a great bearer. Flesh pale red. 

White Marseilles, White Celestial, &e. — Fruit pale yellowish- 
white ; round form ; medium size. Flesh rose-white, very 
high flavored ; a great bearer. 

Propagation.- —The Fig is increased by cuttings and layers 
of the preceding year's wood, which root readily in moist, 
sandy soil. Cuttings of about a foot in length, planted any 
time from November to February, in a shaded, moist, soil, 
will root the first season, when they may be planted into a 
situation appropriated for them. Layers are made by taking 
a branch of two to three feet long, making an incision in it 
nearly half way through the shoot, entering the knife half an 
inch below an eye and drawing it towards the point of the 
shoot about two inches, which will form what gardeners call a 
tongue, on the lower extremity of which is the eye ; bend this 
portion gently, placing it under the ground about four inches, 
where it will form roots in a few months. Early the following 
Spring these layers may be taken off and planted where they 
are required. 

Culture. — The Fig is not very particular in regard to soils. 
We have seen it covering an extent of forty feet by twenty, 
in all kinds of soils, from sand to clay ; but the fairest fruit is 



ALBERT. 



175 



obtained from trees grown on a sandy, loamy soil, with a dry 
bottom. On very rich soils it grows too much to wood, on 
very poor soils the fruit ripens prematurely. Fig orchards 
should be planted about twenty feet apart, and cultivated be- 
tween the trees, till they nearly cover the ground. Xever 
speak of your figs blooming : they never flower, to the eye : 
and the mode of fructifying is rather a speculation, even in 
the present day. u There is something very singular in the 
fructification of the Fig : it has no visible flower, for the fruit 
arises immediately from the joints of the tree, in the form of 
little buds, with a perforation at the end, but not opening or 
showing anything like petals or the ordinary parts of fructifi- 
cation. As the Fig enlarges, the flower comes to maturity in 
concealment, and in eastern countries the fruit is improved by 
a singular operation called caprification. This is performed by 
suspending by threads, above the cultivated figs, branches of 
the wild fig. which are full of a species of cynips. When the 
insect has become winged, it quits the wild Fig and penetrates 
the cultivated ones, for the purpose of laying its eggs : and 
thus it appears both to insure the fructification by dispersing 
the pollen, and afterwards to hasten the ripening by punctur- 
ing the pulp and causing a change of the nutricious juices. In 
France this operation is imitated by inserting straws dipped 
in olive oil." — Lib. of En!. Knowledge, 

Pruning. — " The more you prune the less the crop," is pro 
verbial in Fig culture. All that is required is to shorten any 
irregular or overgrowing shoot, and cut out dead wood, of 
which more or less will show itself every tew years. 



FILBERT. 

Corylus AveJldna. — ybisette. Fr. — Nussbaum. G-er. 
The common Hazel Xut will never be an article of profit to 
the American gardener or husbandman : yet we introduce the 



176 



buist's family kitchen gardener. 



subject for some who cultivate for pleasure, variety, and 
amusement. It is a curious fact that all good things come 
" from the east so say writers on the Filbert. It comes 
from Pontus. Thousands grow wild on the " braes ; ' df Scot- 
land, and millions are over the whole United States, from 
Maine to Texas. Cultivation has greatly improved the size, 
but we doubt of the flavor being more delicious. In its wild 
state it is a large-sized shrub, with a gray colored bark, and 
roundish, heart-shaped leaves. The male catkins (flowers) ap- 
pear on the preceding year's shoots, in Autumn, and wait all 
Winter for the expansion of the female flowers in Spring. The 
varieties in quality are all very similar, though they consider- 
ably differ in appearance. The Red, White. Cosford, and Friz 
zled, are sufficient for cultivation. 

Propagation. — By layers, as directed for Figs : by suckers, 
which spring up freely from the roots ; or by seeds, that maybe 
purchased at the fruit-stores, in any of our cities. 

Culture. — They like a heavy, moist loam, and will grow ' 
where partially shaded. Plant them eight or ten feet apart. 
Prune as directed for currants, merely to check the super- 
abundant growth, to throw them into spur-buds, for fruiting. 

GOOSEBERRY. - 

Ribes Grossuldria. — GrosezUe a Maquereau. Fr. — Stachelbeers- 
fr,iuch. Grer. 

This fruit, so extensively cultivated in Britain, and also in 
some parts of this country, is not at all adapted to a south- 
ern climate. It is only occasionally that a crop is attained 
here, even with the best of care. It requires a cool climate, 
or some local cause, to attain the perfection for which it 
is so justly celebrated. It is a native of this country and Eu- 



GGOSE.BE.RH Y. 



177 



rope. We have seen it wild on the Alleghany mountains ; and 
before we see it perfect in culture, we must re-produce from our 
native sorts. It is highly esteemed in culinary purposes for 
tarts and preserves ; and when fully ripe is laxative, and con- 
sidered a very wholesome dessert fruit. The finest crops we 
have seen in this country were grown in the vicinity of Mon- 
treal and the Lakes, and near Pittsburg, between the Alleghany 
and Monongahela rivers, over which the smoke of that city of 
iron continually rolls, during June, July, and August, which 
entirely prevents the mildew, the only enemy to the culture 
of this fruit in this quarter. There are a thousand varieties 
of it, which may be detailed in Reds, Whites, Yellows and 
Greens, all fancifully named, according, to the ideas of the 
growers. They ripen from the middle to the end of J uly. 

Propagation. — The method is precisely as detailed for Cur- 
rants, both in culture and pruning. In warm seasons, just 
after rain, some sorts are frequently attacked with mildew, 
which baffles our skill to prevent, though we may retard its 
progress by showering them with sulphur-water. The cure, 
however, is nearly as bad as the disease. Mildew makes 
its appearance about the middle of J une, in the form of brown- 
ish-white spots on the fruit. As soon as observed, the berries 
may at once be pulled for the kitchen or market, for they 
never get over it, and the longer they hang the worse they, be- 
come. It is not soil that is the cause, for we have had them 
some seasons all destroyed, while last year the same plants, in 
the same ground, were as fine as they could be, in size, form, 
and flavor. It is an atmospheric disease, and only that. The 
fruit is in size from half an inch to two inches in diameter ; 
the medium sized are the best flavored. The very largest have 
been known to weigh an ounce and a half : but they are 
uniformly of inferior quality. For flavor none excel the fol- 
lowing : 



178 



buist's FAMIO KITCHEN gardenee. 



Reds, 
Red Warrington, 
Champagne, 
Roaring Lion. 
Rough Red, 
Red Jam, 
Lancashire Lad. 

Whites. 
Queen of Sheba, 
White Eagle, 
Venus, 

White Smith, 
White Sulphur, 
Hedgehog. 



Yellows. 
Golden Yellow, 
Early Sulphur, 
Yellow Ball, 
Golden Hero, 
Ashton Yellow, 
Viper. 

G~ree?is. 
Gregory's Perfection, 
Green Ocean, 
Green Laurel, 
Green Gage, 
J oily Angler, 
Green Gaseoigne. 



GRAPE. 

Vitis, var. — Vigne^ Fr — Weintratcbe?i, Ger. 

The culture of the vine is spoken of in the remotest ages. 
The antediluvians were no doubt perfectly familiar with its 
growth and manufacture into an intoxicating drink. Provi- 
dence, with a bountiful hand, distributes copiously over the 
earth those fruits which are for the comfort and luxury of man, 
who frequently converts these blessings into a curse, manufac- 
turing with his own hands an engine for his destruction. The 
practice of not allowing vines to mature their fruit till the 
fourth year, was inculcated by Moses, who lectured on the sub- 
ject to the Israelites. The Egyptians ascribed the manufac- 
ture of wine to Osiris, and the Grecians to Bacchus, whom, for 
the discovery, they elevated to the rank of a deity. Pliny de- 
scribes many kinds of grapes, one shaped like a finger, which 
appears to be lost. They had a vine at that period, near Rome, 



GRAPE. 



179 



that annually produced about three barrels of pure juice. In 
those days, young men under thirty, and wonien, all their life- 
time, were forbidden to drink wine. How would these regu- 
lations suit the moderns ? Plato loved wine : he says, " No- 
thing more excellent or valuable than wine was ever granted 
by God to man/' Ignatius Marennius killed his wife with a 
billet of wood, having caught her drinking wine. He was 
tried, and was acquitted of murder : but history does not say 
whether it was by his gold or a justification in the circum- 
stances that he obtained his freedom. Cato records that the 
custom of kinsfolk kissing women when they met, was to know 
by their breath if they had been drinking wine ! There is no 
fruit so wholesome — none so generally palatable — none that 
can be so universally cultivated — and none so remunerating as 
the Grape. Its rapidity of growth, productiveness, long life 
and simplicity of culture, may enable every farmer, at least, to 
live literally under his own vine. There is not a farmer or 
planter from New York to New Orleans but may cultivate, 
with a very small outlay, an abundance of this fruit. I never 
see long, naked post-rail fences, but am reminded of the neg- 
lect of this fruit : not that it does not deserve the very best 
of ground, the most studied culture ; but here is a waste of 
land and the very support that would produce thousands of tons 
of this inestimable fruit, The extent of its culture in Ohio and 
other States is rapidly increasing. N. Longworth, Esq., of 
Cincinnati, a zealous horticulturist, has one hundred acres under 
culture, which he rents out to Swiss and German vine-dressers, 
who therefrom have an excellent living, and make him a boun- 
tiful return. The fruit is manufactured into wine, and sold 
at from 75 cents to 81.50 per gallon, and the produce of that 
vicinity is about six hundred barrels. This is merely " a drop 
in the bucket," compared with the immense import of the past 
year.* For this purpose their standard Grape is the Catawba, 



* After deducting the export, there remains fcr home consumption 
M05.166 gallons, at a cost of $1,131,038. 



160 



buist's family kitchen gardener. 



and other native G-rapes, of which the following are the best. 
If our own advice could prevail, we would plant only Isabella 
and Catawba, or improved varieties therefrom. 

Bland or Powell. — Color pale red ; fruit round ; bunches 
short, with two or three shoulders when well-grown. Flesh 
pulpy, with a half sweet, subacid flavor, and a little of the pe- 
culiar musky tinge, characteristic of the Fox Grape. Foliage 
pale green underneath, and more rounding than any of the 
following sorts. 

Cataivba — One of the best native Grapes ; bunches rather 
regularly formed, with a few shoulders. Fruit round, of a 
bright red or coppery color when ripe. Flesh pulpy ; rather 
juicy, and sweet when fully ripe, with a musky flavor. Foliage 
pale green, with a white down underneath, and more reflexed 
than that of the Isabella, which it very much resembles. This 
variety is most esteemed for wine, and when fully ripe, in my 
estimation, is the best of our native grapes for the table, though 
I cannot go so far as to say " it is luscious and high-flavored. 5 : 

Elsingborough, Elsenborough^ Elsinburg. — This Grape is 
a native of the sandy soils of New Jersey, where it is 
considered the best of the American Grapes. Bunches small, 
compact and shouldered : berries small, jet black, round, with 
a thin skin. Flesh without pulp, sweet and well-flavored. 
Foliage coarse, deeply five-lobed. Wood slender, very hardy. 

Isabella. — This variety is hardier than either of the form- 
er, and may be cultivated as far north as the St. Lawrence. 
Bunches long, tapering, with very few shoulders. Berries 
oval, jet black, with a fine bloom. Skin thick. Flesh a little 
pulpy, very sweet, with a little touch of the musky flavor. 
Ripe about the end of September, but improves by hanging on 
the vines till frost. I have repeatedly handed ripe fruit of 
this Grape, with that of the Black Hamburg, to individuals 
entirely unacquainted with the flavor of grapes, and they have 
generally pronounced the Isabella the best and sweetest Grape. 



GRAPE. 



181 



Foliage large, three-lobe d, with a white down underneath. 
Wood very strong, of a brownish-red color. 

Ohio, or the Segar-Box Grape. — This variety was brought 
into notice by Mr. Longworth. of Cincinnati. Its history is 
rather obscure, though there is no doubt of its being a native 
It approaches nearer the Elsinburg than any other we culti- 
vate, but is not so hardy as that sort. Bunches long, compact, 
and tapering, with one or two shoulders. Berries small, round, 
and jet black, with a thin skin. Flesh sweet and well flavor 
ed : the seeds large. Wood strong, shorter jointed than either 
the Isabella or Catawba, .and requires to be laid in thin, or 
the fruit rots off before ripening. The plant is rather tender 
for us. being severely injured with me last "Winter. All our 
native Grapes ripen from the 1st of September to the 1st of 
October : but I have found the flavor greatly improved by 
hanging on the vine as long as possible, keeping clear of frost 
There are few bunches that will weigh one pound. 

Propagation of the native Grape is a very simple process. 
They will all grow assuredly from layers of the preceding 
year's wood, or even of the wood of the current year. All that 
is required is merely to bend a shoot to the ground, make a 
hole four inches deep, and place the bend of the shoot in it. 
Cover it up firmly with the earth : give it frequent waterings 
in dry weather. In the month of November it will be fit to cut 
from the parent to plant in the vineyard, or in any other requir- 
ed locality. When it is planted out. cut it down to about two 
eyes from the ground : allow one of these only to grow the fol- 
lowing season. It is also propagated by cuttings very general- 
ly, though there are some sorts rather shy to root by this me- 
thod. We also grow them from eyes, as directed for foreign 
vines. Grafting can also be accomplished on the Tine. Al- 
low the stock to grow till it has made a leaf or two. then take 
a scion that has been retarded in a cool place, and prepare it 
either for whip or wedge grafting. 



Br: ST S FAMILY CTTCHEX GaRBE.NEE. 



By Cuttings.— Shoots of last season's wood, cut into 
lengths of about a foot long (of many of the sorts), and plant- 
ed into any rich, light soil, nearly their whole depth, will root 
in ono season, and by care and pruning they will grow to fine 
plants in two years : when they should be planted out where 
they are intended to remain. 

Soil. — The native vine will grow in any kind of soil, except 
that of a wet or clayey nature, and on any exposure and situa- 
tion, except low valleys, where in some seasons it mildews and 
drops its fruit. The best soil is a rich and friable loam, under 
which there is a stony, sandy, or gravelly bottom. They do 
not require excessively rich soils, but they stand in need of 
semi-annual dressings with manure- or rich composts, and if 
this is withheld they will deteriorate in quality and quantity, 
The soil must be properly ameliorated and enriched before 
planting, and if trenched with the spade or plough, the benefit 
derived will amply repay the cost. For vineyards, plant them 
six feet apart, and eight feet from row to row : train them to 
trellises or poles made of lied Cedar wood, or White Oak. 
Eight feet in height for field culture will be sufficient : but for 
city gardens, where borders of rich soil are prepared for them, 
they will grow to any height, even to the roof of a five story 
dwelling, and there produce excessive crops. Trellises for 
training may be made of any shape or form, but those that are 
upright are preferable. 

Pruning. — On the proper execution of this operation greatly 
depends the prosperity and fruitfulness of the vine. There is 
frequently so great a mystery thrown around these simple at- 
tentions that the timid are afraid even to touch the vine with 
the knife : while others, whose boldness goes farther than their 
knowledge, cut right and left with considerable dexterity, 
feeling satisfied if they show that the wood is at least cut off. 
To cut the shoots from three to ten eyes of the preceding year's 
wood, according to its strength, is a good general rule. Tc 



GRAPE. 



183 



put our ideas in a tangible form, we will .begin with the young 
plant. As above stated, cut it to within two eyes from the 
ground, from which allow one shoot to grow for the first sea- 
son, and now call it a plant one year old : if the soil is in good 
order it will be fifteen feet long. In November, or before 
February, cut that shoot to about two feet from the ground, 
and allow three shoots to grow. They will each attain fifteen 
to twenty feet. It is now two years old. About the same 
period of the season lay the two lowest of these shoots hori- 
zontally and cut them to about twenty inches from the main 
stem ; the most upright, cut at about two feet from the stem and 
allow the plant to make fruit this (the third) year. Six bunche3 
will be quite enough. The plant being now formed, and hav- 
ing made, in the fourth season, a quantity of branches all cov- 
ered with fruit, it is advisable to take only one bunch off each, 
and never take more than two. Leading branches will be re- 
quired for the future plant. These may extend to fill up any 
given space, but all others must be topped two eyes beyond 
the fruit : that is. leave on two leaves nearer the extremity of 
the shoot than the bunches hang. This topping should be 
performed early in June, and when they make fresh shoots 
top them again and again. The leading shoots must also be 
topped as soon as they are at their required length. Where 
vines are needed to cover high arbors, or reach the top of 
dwellings, the shoots in the first and second year may be left 
from six to ten feet long. 

Summer Pruning is generally very injudiciously performed. 
The vines are allowed to grow in every form till July or Au- 
gust, when they are thinned out and deprived of a great deal 
of young wood and foliage, at the very time the plants require 
to have it. Go over the vines in May and deprive them of 
all the branches that crowd each other ; six inches to twelve 
apart is proper distance to lay in young wood : rub off all 
others, using only the finger and thumb in the operation : tie 
in the shoots as they advance, and top them as soon as they 



1 84 buist's family kitchen gardener. 

have made two eyes' growth "Beyond the fruit, except the lead- 
ers, as above intimated. 

There is nothing in the above that is not perfectly simple, 
and may be put in practice by any farmer, along every fence 
rail. 



FOREIGN GRAPE. 

This is the Vltis vinifera of botanists, a fruit of the East, 
where it luxuriates in profusion, being the food and drink of 
many of the inhabitants of those countries. In these climates 
it grows without limit, and even under the dry, genial suns 
of France and the countries bordering on the Mediterranean 
Sea, it attains great perfection. This climate, however, is in- 
imical to its growth, and after bearing for a few years, it sud- 
denly dies off. Its perfection can only be attained under glass : 
but with that as a cover, and a knowledge of the cause and effect 
of the disease to which it is subject, it will amply repay the 
attention paid to its culture. For such a purpose we introduce 
the following varieties : 

Black Frontignan. — A very rich-flavored Grape, with a pe- 
culiar, musky flavor. Bunches rather small, long and compact. 
Berries medium size ; skin thin, covered with a violet bloom. 
A good bearer : bunches about one pound weight. 

Black Hamburg is the best of all Grapes, taking into con- 
sideration its combined qualities of productiveness, large size, 
and fine flavor. Bunches rather tapering, with two or three 
shoulders, making what is called a well-shouldered bunch. 
Berries large, sometimes four inches in circumference, rather 
round, of a jet black color, but vary very much under different 
treatment ; in a warm, moist, or dry atmosphere, ripening from 
a pale red to its proper color ; skin rather thick. Flesh rich, 
juicy and melting, It is a very large bunch, weighing three 
pounds 



FOREIGN GRAPE. 



185 



Black Prince. — If the Black Hamburg has a rival, it is in 
this Grape. In this vicinity, growers generally prefer it. 
Bunches tapering and well shouldered. Berries large, of a 
fine black, not so closely set on the bunch as the Hamburg. 
Flesh melting, juicy and high flavored. A great bearer and 
always colors well. A very large bunch will weigh three 
pounds ; wood strong. 

Charges Herding. — A black Grape from the south of France 
introduced by me four years ago. Bunches long and tapering. 
Berries medium size ; color jet black, with a violet bloom. 
Flesh melting, very juicy, spicy and sprightly ; flavor distinct 
from any other Grape. A -great bearer, either in pots or in 
the ground ; bunches from a pound to a pound and a half. 

Chasselas Golden, White Chasselas, Royal Muscadine, White 
Muscadine, Chasselas de Fontainebleau, with many other names, 
all belong to two varieties of the Grape, very much assimulated, 
and in which there is great confusion. Bunches long and ta- 
pering, with one or two shoulders. Berries medium size ; of a 
white, changing to a bright, transparent, golden color, when 
fully exposed to the sun. Flesh tender, melting, rich and 
sugary. A prolific bearer. We have seen a vine in a pot 
with twenty-nine bunches of fruit on it. 

Decants Superb. — A new Grape, imported by me three years 
ago, and promises to be the finest white Grape we have in 
culture for size and bearing, with an excellent flavor. Bunches 
large ; well shouldered Berries perfectly round, three to four 
inches in circumference ; of a greenish-white color. Flesh 
and flavor very similar to the Hamburg. A strong grower. 

Muscat of Alexandria. — Bunches large, as broad as they are 
long. Berries oval, of a fine yellowish-white color. Flesh 
firm, with a rich, sweet, musky flavor, peculiar to this variety : 
few seeds ; requires to be fully transparent before being cut ; 
in fact it is not ripe till it begins to shrivel. Many growers cut 
it before maturity. A large bunch will weigh two pounds. A 
very strong grower. 



186 



bujst's family kitchen gardener. 



Muscat blanc hatif, or Early White Muscat.— A. very early 
sort, with well formed bunches. Berries perfectly round, of a 
yellow-white color. Flesh very rich, juicy, spicy, and high 
flavored. A great bearer ; large bunches will weigh a pound 
and a half. 

Red Frontignan. or Grizzly Frontignan. — Bunches long and 
tapering. Berries perfectly round, of a copper or red color; 
medium size, and set thickly on the bunch. Flesh rich, spicy, 
juicy and excellent. The best of Grapes: when once tasted, if 
perfectly ripe, it will not be forgotten. The fruit should hang 
on the vine till it begins to shrivel. A large bunch will weigh 
a pound and a half. 

West's, St. Peters, or Black Lombardy. — Bunches very long 
(fifteen inches) if well grown. Berries round, of a dull red 
color, closely set. Flesh juicy and melting. Will hang on 
the vines till frost ; for this it is valuable. Foliage very much 
lobed, very large branches. Will weigh two and a half to 
three pounds. A strong grower and great bearer. 

White Frontignan. — In character and flavor like the Red. 
Color of a waxy white, with a fine powdery bloom on the fruit. 

White Sweet Water. — V ery early. Bunches rather small, 
as is the fruit. Berries round, of a pale-green, transparent 
color. Flesh thin, sugary, and sweet. A very distinct soit; 
large bunches will weigh one pound. 

Erections. — We here admit that the above described Grapes 
cannot be grown in the open air with any degree of success. 
We therefore propose to give a simple detail for a cheap and 
permanent structure for their protection. There are few gar- 
dens of any pretensions that have not glass sash for hot-beds, 
pits, &c., during Winter. By way of economy, and to suit 
those who are parsimonious in rural affairs, we propose erect- 
ing a building to suit those sashes, which generally remain 
unemployed during the season from April to November, the 
very time that the Grape vines require their aid. Admit 



FOREIGN GRAPE. 



187 




that the sashes of the frames 
are six feet long, and those 
of the pit are seven feet, 
these, according to Fig. 25, 
will cover a Grapery nine 
feet high at the back, ten 
feet wide, and seven feet ~~ * = Hfcb~ 
high in front, allowing two Fig. 25. 

feet for a low front wall, or plank. This Grapery may be of 
any length, and can be placed against any wall, building, or 
good permanent fence, at very little cost ; and from it heavy 
crops of Grapes may be obtained every year. In the Winter 
season, the vines are to be laid down, after being pruned, in 
any convenient position, and protected by hay, straw, or boards. 
In April the vines can be tied up, and the sashes put on them 
whenever they can be spared from the frames and pits. For 
the admission of air, a portion of the sash can be moveable and 
fixed with springs, or hooks and staples. 

Soil. — There is very little difference of opinion in regard 
to the nature of the soil genial to the growth and maturity of 
the Grape. All agree that it should be light and porous, on 
a dry bottom. The great Grape-growing countries are of that 
nature, and the vineyards are all planted on rising ground or 
declivities. The various modes of accomplishing this, is fre- 
quently very ludicrous. A great pit is prepared, three to four 
feet deep, filled with one or two feet of stones, bricks, and 
other rough material, over which is put a mixture of offal, bones, 
lime, and other rich manures, with a small portion of good, 
virgin earth. In such receptacles the roots very soon rot, the 
vines become weak, and finally, after a few years of meagre 
existence, they die — as might have been expected. If we 
could make a choice of locality, or even no choice, the most 
appropriate place on level ground would be, to plant the vines 
op the surface, or, in other word 5 ? make the vine border above 



188 



btjist's family kitchen gardener. 



the ground. It would then always be dry and sweet, and if 
too dry, water might be given when required. Soils for the 
growth of this plant must be dry. and free from excess of 
moisture ^at any season. The excrementitious matter dis- 
charged from the roots of a vine is very great, and if this be 
given out in cold, retentive soils, they soon become diseased, 
and a pale and languid vegetation ensues. If, therefore, the bot- 
tom is not naturally dry, make it so by draining. Having ob- 
tained a dry bottom, by rough materials of any description, cover 
it to the desired height with fresh turf from a rich pasture, and 
dig in one-fourth of well-decomposed manure, at least one 
year old, interspersing it with a few bones of any description, 
oyster shells, road scrapings from the turnpike, or any other 
enriching material that undergoes slow decomposition. The 
whole must be repeatedly turned, and allowed to settle before 
the vines are planted. Extreme caution has to be used in ad- 
ministering bone dust, slaughter-house offal, and other rich 
manures, especially if the vines are to be planted in it the same 
season. The surface of the soil should have a descent to carry 
off rains and snows. Never crop vine borders, nor tread much 
upon them. Have a trellis walk laid on the soil, for the daily 
operations of training, tieing, pruning, &c. Stir up the sur- 
face of the border once a year with the fork, and give it a 
dressing of manure. From these remarks it must not be in- 
ferred that vines will not grow unless in richly prepared soils. 
They will grow well in poor, dry, sandy soils, provided they 
have annually a good portion of rich vegetable or animal 
matter dug into them every Autumn, and a covering of ma- 
nure during Winter — the rains passing through which will 
strengthen the soil and enable it to give great growths and 
good crops. 

Propagation. — This is frequently done by layers, of which 
we have given a hint under the culture of Native Grapes ; also 
by cuttings of last year's wood ; but the best method of grow- 



FOREIGN GRAPE. 



189 



ing fine plants is by the single eye. This is the favorite mode 
of propagating plants for fruiting. Early in Febiuary or 
March we cut the shoots of the preceding years wood into eyes, 
leaving about an inch on each side of the eye. plant these 
with their eyes uppermost into pots, and place them under 
glass, either in cold or hot frames prepared for the purpose, or 
in the window of a warm room, where they will be carefully 
watered. These eyes may easily be made to grow ten or 
twelve feet the first season, by constant repotting and water- 
ing with liquid manure. Plants grown by this method are de- 
cidedly the best rooted, forming more capillary fibres, conse- 
quently more nutritious support to the vine is absorbed : they 
form shorter joints, and are capable of producing a greater 
quantity of fruit. We have seen a plant of the Black Ham- 
burg, only eighteen months from the eye. have nine bunches, 
weighing about eight pounds. 

Transplanting. — If Grape vines have been cultivated in 
pots, they may be transplanted at any period of the year, 
though we give preference to the months of October. Novem- 
ber, March or April Admitting the ground is fully prepared, 
dig out a place for the reception of the roots, eighteen inches 
deep, and as wide as the roots require, to lay them, at their 
full length, without bending or twisting in any manner. If 
any of them are broken or diseased, cut them off. Keep thc- 
roots near the surface, distributing among them fine earth 
give each three or four gallons of water, allow it to subside 
when fill up with earth and press it down gently with the foot 
In such a house as we have figured, one plant to each sash 
will be enough. The back of the house may be planted with 
Figs, which should be covered up in Winter, in the same man- 
ner as the vines. It is absolutely necessary for the health of 
the vine that it should be planted where the sun will fully 
shine upon it during some hours of the day. We have often ob- 
served small vines planted in front of the house, where they are 



buist's family kitchen gardener. 



entirely shaded from the sun, and had to struggle for weeks or 
months before they reached the full light and air. In such a 
case it is preferable to grow the plants in pots, till they are the 
required height. The first season's growth should be confined 
to one stem only, carefully cutting off all lateral shoots within 
two eyes of the main stem. 

Winter. Pruning. — This subject is extensively treated on 
by all writers on the vine, in the horticulture of Great Britain ; 
and those who have undertaken the subject in this country ap- 
pear to adopt their words. It may do in some soils and lati- 
tudes, but when put in practice here, many of the eyes intended 
for fruiting the coming season start to growth. The error we 
will take the liberty to point out. In the preceding paragraph 
we advise the first season's growth to be confined to one stem ; 
this having been done, cut this shoot down to the bottom of the 
glass, and allow two shoots to grow from it the next season, 
and take one bunch of fruit from the strongest shoot, if it 
shows any. These shoots are to be trained as far as they will 
grow. Writers say, top them when one-third, or at farthest, 
half-way up the rafter :" if this is done in our climate, and the 
vines in strong health, one-half of the eyes below the stoppings 
will grow at once, ruining the vine for one year. Our climate 
elaborates the juices of the plant so fully that a stoppage of its 
growth has two results, viz. — either destroying the roots or 
causing a greater reproduction of wood : which in this case is a 
decided injury. The next Winter cut the weakest shoot to 
about one eye from the previous year's wood ; and the strong- 
est lay in two or three feet of the past season's growth. This 
portion will have ten or twelve eyes, all of which will break and 
produce fruit. Take only one bunch from each eye : the other 
shoot allow to grow its full length without fruit during the sea- 
son. The next Winter cut back the strong shoot that has pro- 
duced the large crop to within two eyes of the old wood, and 
allow one shoot to grow therefrom The strong shoot is to be 



FOREIGN GRAPES. 



191 



laid in. or cut back to two or three feet long for fruiting ; one 
shoot to be trained without fruit for the next year's crop. 
There may be on the vine four shoots, or the number required, 
one-half of which lay in to fruit every year, and cuj: back the 
other half for fruiting the following season. This is termed 
the long cane system, and is the one we recommend. 

Spur System of Pruning, which is exceedingly simple in de- 
tail and practice, and the largest crops of Grapes we have ever 
eeen. were from vines trained on this mode. It is as follows : 
Allow one shoot to extend from the plant, the whole height of 
the house. If every thing is in good order, this shoot will be 
at least three inches round. If under, there is a deficiency ; cut 
it back, and give it another year's growth. If over it, the vines 
are too strong, cut this shoot to about four feet of the old wood ; 
from the sides of this stem, young shoots or spurs push forth, 
which bear fruit. Take only one bunch from each, and stop 
the growth two eyes above the bunches. At each Winter 
pruning, these spurs are cut back, leaving two or three eyes 
to each. These again send out other spurs ; take one bunch 
from each, and so continue from year to year, and you will have 
fruit in great abundance, though not so fine as on the former 
method.* Many err in this system in taking two bunches of 
fruit from each eye ; instead of one only. Winter pruning 
should always be done as soon as the leaves have fallen, other- 
wise the vine is deprived of matter which would have been 



* Since the above was prepared for the press, we have had an inter- 
view with one of the best grape-growers under glass, in the country, 
a L whose Grapery, last year, we saw fruit of the finest quality, in regard to 
color, size, and flavor. He adopts both methods of pruning, but greatly 
ptelers the cane training as being most simple — the vine having only 
one or two wounds made on it, the fruit swelling faster, coloring better, 
and maturing two weeks before that of the spur pruning, where the com- 
parison was fair: being withotit fire heat. He also syringes his vines 
freely, till the fruit is about the size of peas, and never afterwards. He 
never saw red-spider on his vines, and very rarely mildew. Observe 
that all our remark? apply to grape houses without artificial heat, 
9 



,92 



stored up in the remaining parts. Never prune back wood of 
the present year to one eye. as is usually recommended, but 
leave a long spur of three eyes : the eye or bud nearest the 
old stem is frequently blind, and even if it does show fruit, it is 
not so nne as the eyes farther up the shoot : but be careful to 
retain the best, and rub off the remainder at the earliest stage 
of growth, always encouraging the base bud shoot to be 
retained for the next season's operation. Summer pruning 
must be strictly attended to. stopping every shoot two leaves 
above the bunch, after which laterals, or new shoots, will soon 
be produced. These, stop again every two weeks, to concen- 
trate the energy of the plant on the swelling of the fruit. 

TfflJtNiNG the Fruit. — This portion of culture is too frequent- 
ly neglected. As soon as the berries are the size of small 
peas, cut out about one-third of them with a pair of sharp- 
pointed scissors This will allow the others to swell more freely. 
Again, before they begin to color, if they appear crowded, thin 
out the smallest. This will not reduce the weight of the 
bunch, unless the thinning is carried to extreme. Hever touch 
the fruit after it begins to colon Handling destroys the fine 
bloom on the fruit which i s a point of beauty. Tieing up the 
shoulders does not improve the fruit nor add to the effect 

KorTEoz co Ctltvez under glass. with:ut tire heat As 
soon as the frosty nights are over 5 clean all the wood-work by 
washing, or white-washing. Lift up the vines from where they 
have been laid all Winter, and wash them with strong soap- 
suds, or soft soap and tobacco water, rubbing off all the loose 
bark, and cleaning them thoroughly. After which tie them up 
to the places appropriate for them, Every morning after they 
begin : grow, give them a springing with water, about an 
hour after sun-rise, provided the sashes are on the house. If 
the sashes are not on. they do not require it so frequently. 
About the end of April, or first of May. the sashes must ne- 
cessarily be put on to protect the blossom, encourage the 
growth, and prevent injury in cold nights. 



NECTARINE. 



193 



When the fruit has set, the vines may be syringed every 
afternoon, about four o'clock^ having previously shut up the 
house, not to be opened again till the sun has fairly tempered 
the atmosphere next day, which will generally be from nine to 
ten o'clock, if the house fronts south, when air must be given by 
the top sashes, not allowing the thermometer to go higher than 
from 90 to 110 degrees. 

During the warm, cloudy days of July and August, mil- 
dew is sure to appear, and has frequently accomplished great 
destruction before it is discovered. It is readily known by a 
yellow,. sickly transparency on the leaf, or a greasy, soft feel 
when you lay hold of it. The best cure is to give copious 
syringings of water, twice a day, giving plenty of air to the 
house from ten to three o'clock, in sunshine. If it has far 
gone, pour four gallons of boiling water over five pounds of flower 
of sulphur, stir it well, and after allowing it to settle, mix a fourth 
of this water with that which is used for syringing, which will 
entirely kill all mildew. Never leave the doors open for any 
length of time ; it causes cold draughts of air through the vines. 
Cease syringing as soon as the fruit begins to color.^ Give 
water to the roots every week, whilst they are in a growing 
state, till the fruit has fully swelled. 

The hints we have thrown out on the culture of this truly 
luscious fruit will, wo think, enable any one to grow it at least 
to a small degree of perfection ; and with a mediocrity of cau- 
tion and observation, good and regular crops may be obtained 
for either pleasure or profit. 



NECTARINE. 
Amygdalis, var. — Brugnon, Fr. — Nectar jpfirsche^ Ger. 
I have never considered this fruit as any other production 
than a garden variety of the Peach, from which it is only dis- 
tinguished by the smoothness of the skin. Many highly 
wrought descriptions of it have extolled it as being finer fla- 



194 



BUIST'S JAMIL Y KITCHEN \AJtDENER, 



vored than the Peach. If so, it has not been our good fortune 
to have tasted such : on the contrary, we consider it an infe- 
rior variety of that fruit, and of an inferior flavor. Neither 
will the Nectarine ever be so universally cultivated, being gen- 
erally of a smaller size ; and the smoothness of its skin is fa- 
vorable to the attacks of the Curculio, which destroys them in 
quantities every season, stinging the fruit even worse than the 
Plum ; and until we can entirely extirpate these animals, it 
will be a scarce fruit in this vicinity. The following five sorts, 
from about twenty, will form a select collection. 

Boston— An American variety, by Mr. Lewis, of Boston, 
and brought into notice by S. Gr. Perkins, Esq. Color bright 
yellow, with red cheek. A sweet and pleasant flavor, large 
size. Freestone. 

Downton. — Fruit of a greenish-white color, with a dark red 
cheek. Flesh very rich, melting, and juicy ; large size, and 
the very best quality. Freestone. 

New White. — Is of a creamy-white color, medium size. 
Flesh white, rich, melting, and rather juicy. A freestone. 

Pitmaston Orange. — Fruit medium size, of a bright golden- 
yellow color, with a red cheek. Flesh deep yellow, melting, 
rich and sweet, fine flavor. Freestone. . 

Red Roman. — One of the oldest and most celebrated varie- 
ties. Fruit large, of a yellowish-green color, with a dull red 
cheek, specked with brown. Flesh firm, pale yellow, juicy, rich 
and very high flavored. Equal to the Downton, but is a cling- 
stone. 

Yiolette hative. — Fruit very similar to the former, with a 
greenish-white flesh. A freestone. 

They all ripen from the 1st of August to the 1st of Sept. 

Cultivation. — The soil and culture suitable for the Peach 
perfectly agrees with the Nectarine. It is also budded in the 
same manner, and if practicable should always be obtained on 
the Plum stock 



PEACH. 



195 



PEACH, 

Amy'gdalis Persica. — Pecker, Fr. — Pfirschbaum, Grer. 
It is to be supposed that every inhabitant of the United States 
is familiar with the Peach. In both flavor and appearance it is 
legitimately a fruit of this country, though a foreigner — a na- 
tive of Persia, where it has been known from the earliest ages. 
History says it was first sent by the king of Persia into 
Egypt, with the view of poisoning the inhabitants, with whom 
he was then at war : and, strange to say, most of the ancient 
writers describe this fruit as possessing deleterious qualities. 
The leaves of the tree, however, contain prussic acid. From 
the days of Virgil the fruit has been considered of first-rate 
excellence, which few will dispute ; and the Peaches of this 
country are equal to any in the world. With the purposes for 
which they are used every one is familiar. They are cultivat- 
ed in the States of New Jersey and Delaware by the tens of 
thousands of acres — one family alone employing a steamboat 
in the Peach season, to carry their fruit to market. There 
are hundreds of varieties cultivated — many orchards of natu- 
ral fruit without names, and other orchards of a more profitable 
character, containing only a very few select sorts, known for 
their superior merits. The following twenty kinds we note 
as being such, whilst we will not deny that there may be 
others equally as good in other parts of the country, unknown 
to us. 

Alberge. or Yellow Rare-ripe. — Color bright yellow, red 
cheek, round form, large size. Ripe early in August — -free. 

Columbia. — Color brownish-yellow, striped red, round form, 
large size. Ripe about the middle of September — -free. 

Early Melocoton (Crawford's). — Color brownish-yellow ; red 
cheek; oval form. Ripe 15th August— -free. 

Early York. — Color dark red ; round form ; medium size ; 
excellent quality : a great bearer. Ripe Oth of August— free. 



196 



buist's family kitchen gardener. 



Foxe's Seedling. — Color greenish-white ; red cheek ; round 
form ; large size. Ripe early in September. 

Favorite (Reeve's). — Color yellowish-red ; roundform. Ripe 
early in September— -free. 

George 4th. — Color greenish-white ; red cheek : round 
form : large size. Ripe end of August — -free. 

Grosse Mignonne, or Royal George — with about twenty 
other names, is a large round Peach, rather flattened ; color 
greenish-yellow ; a mottled red cheek ; flesh white, red at the 
stone. The first Peach we became familiar with, and have 
seen it eleven and a half inches in circumference. Ripe in 
August — -free. 

Imperial (Darby). — Color yellow-brown, with dull red 
cheek ; round form. Ripe middle of September — -free. 

Late Heath. — Color white ; faint red cheek ; oval form. 
Ripe in October — cling. 

Late Melocoton (Crawford's). — Color dull yellow; dark red 
cheek; roundish form. Ripe 12th to 25th September — -free. 

La Grange. — Color greenish-white ; oval form. Ripe 10th 
September — -free. 

Morris White. — Color pure white ; oval form. Ripe early 
in September — free. 

Nonpareil (Scott's). — Dull yellow; red cheek; roundisk 
form. Ripe 15th September — free. 

Old Mixon {free). — Color dull red; oval form. Ripe early 
in September. 

Old Mixon (cling). — Color dull red ; round form. Ripe 
early in September. 

Red Cheek Melocoton — Color yellowish-green ; dull red 
cheek ; oval form. Ripe 18th September — free. 

Red Rare-Ripe. — Color greenish-white ; dark red cheek ; 
oval form. Ripe end of August — free. 

Rodmaris Red. — Color dull red ; oval form. Ripe end of 
September and 1st of October — cling. 



FEaCH. 



197 



Tippecanoe. — Color bright yellow, with red cheek ; oval 
form. Ripe 10th to 20th September — cling. 

Propagation. — This is of the simplest character. It is 
usually performed by planting the stones (or pits), in No- 
vember, about two inches deep, in rich, light, or sandy soil. 
These nearly all vegetate in the Spring, and can be budded 
the following September, or about the end of August. They 
are then headed down close to the bud, early in the Spring, 
when they will make a growth of from three to nine feet the first 
season, with lateral branches all up the stem. In some parts 
of Ohio, Ke'ntucky, and Mississippi, the stones are planted in 
November, budded the end of the following June, headed down 
in July, and make a growth of four to six feet all within one year 
of the stone being planted. These operations are all performed 
on the Peach-stone. The tree is consequently short-lived ; 
but being so readily replaced, that is not generally considered 
of much consequence. However, we would prefer budding for 
our own use on the Plum stock. The tree will live half a cen- 
tury thereon, and will not be subject to the Borer, which is a 
great enemy to the Peach stock. 

Planting. — If we wish to reap the fruit, we must prepare 
the soil. As the foundation is laid, so will the erection stand. 
Plough or dig your soil deep ; manure well the year previous ; 
plant your trees twenty feet apart, which will take one hundred 
to the acre. Our remarks on planting Apples will apply here. 
Cultivate the ground with a light crop, giving manure every 
two years. 

Pruning. — This is very indifferently attended to in the 
Peach. The trees are allowed to grow at random — long, strag- 
gling branches, with the fruit at the extremity, bending them 
to the ground, and never thinned out. The result is, the first 
storm breaks half of the limbs, and the fruit does not grow 
over half its size, ripening premature* y, and commanding 



198 



buist's family kitchen gardener. 



about one-third the price of full-grown, well-ripened fruit. It 
is twenty years since we pruned Peach trees, in the same man- 
ner as we have described for Currant bushes, keeping the 
young wood thin,- and shortening every growth in the Fall or 
Winter pruning. The trees are thereby made more compact, 
not so liable to be broken, and produce finer fruit ; the beauty 
of the tree is improved, and its age lengthened. 

The Borer ) or Peach-worm, is very destructive to this tree. 
The insect, according to Say, is a dark-blue, four-winged, slen- 
der moth, depositing its egg during the Summer months around 
the tree, close to the surface of the ground. Ashes have been 
long used as a protective against this destroyer, with very 
good effect ; and recently half a peck of air-slacked lime, heaped 
round the tree during the month of May, is considered as a 
perfect antidote, effectually securing the tree against its ene- 
my. The lime is spread over the ground after the fall of the 
leaf, and a fresh supply given every year at the above period. 

There is a disease called " The Yellows" very prevalent in 
some orchards, which is attributed to a variety of causes. 
The main one, we presume, will generally be found in unge- 
nial soil, and overcropping of the trees. We say, thin out the 
crop — do not allow one fruit to be within two inches of its 
neighbor. Shorten the young growths of the tree by Winter 
pruning, and cut out others where they are too thick, thereby 
giving plenty of air to all parts of the tree. Manure every 
other year and crop light. With such a routine of culture the 
Yellows will be a stranger. Trees that produce a crop of fruit 
which is yearly carried off the ground, must have some return, 
by enriching the soil, either by manure from the stable-yard, 
or rich composts of lime, marl, plaster, &c. 



peae . 



199 



PEAR. 

Pyrus communis. — Poirier, Fr. — Birnbaum, Grer. 

The present period is a verj exciting one on the culture of 
this fruit, which ranks in fla^ or next to the Peach ; but in 
point of healthfulness and general utility, for domestic pur- 
poses, it will be second to the Apple. In its wild state it is 
equally disseminated with that fruit, but we doubt of its cul- 
ture ever being so universal, it being more subject to diseases, 
especially to blight. Some, soils are entirely noxious to it, 
while others nourish it to extreme old age. It is also longer 
in coming to a fruit-bearing state than the Apple, though some 
of the recent kinds appear to produce fruit as early as the 
third or fourth years from the bud, and frequently the second 
year from the graft. As a dessert, or table fruit, it is prefera- 
ble 'to the Apple, and is also very important for cooking pur- 
poses. In some countries Perry is made from the fruit, in the 
same manner that we do cider, for which purpose there are 
s jcial productive varieties. Within the past twenty year3 
tae immense multiplication of sorts renders it a very intricate 
task to select, from the multitude, a few well adapted for gen- 
eral cultivation, because the variety that does best in some sec- 
tions of the country nearly fails in others, and those that are 
described from the fruit, as being the best in size and flavor, 
on trial prove to be the worst in productiveness. One of the 
most celebrated horticulturists of the age, who does all his 
" own thinking," writing to me from u Boston, September 20, 
1846," says: " There is, in my view, to<? much of a rage for 
new fruits, and the old superior varieties are neglected. Of 
Pears they have here near two hundred varieties, and possibly 
twenty of fair quality." I will however give an outline de- 
scription of a few, slightly transcending that limited number, 
and vouch for all of them being of the very best. 

Summer Pears. Madeline. — Fruit pear-shaped, rather un- 
der the medium size, with a long foot-stalk. Color pale yei- 
' 9* 



200 



buist's family kitchen gardener. 



low-green. Flesh white, very rich, juicy, and high flavored ; 
a great bearer. Ripe 20th July. 

Bloodgood— Fruit rounding, flat at the eye, medium size ; 
color yellow, with a brown cheek. Flesh yellowish-white, rich 
and sugary, with a fine, aromatic flavor. Ripe 1 st of August. 

Julienne. — Fruit rather under medium size ; oval form ; co- 
lor bright yellow. Flesh buttery and juicy. Ripe early in 
August. Fruit should be plucked a few days before ripe. 

Tyson. — Fruit medium size; pyramidal form; "color dull 
greenish-yellow. Flesh white, sweet, melting, and very juicy, 
with a most delightful flavor. Ripe from the 15th to the 25th 
of August. A figure of this variety is given in Hovey's Maga- 
zine for November, 1846, but much too small for the general 
size of the fruit. The original tree, now over fifty years of 
age, stands in Jenkintown, Pa., and measures six feet in cir- 
cumference, at three feet from the ground, and is a noble spe- 
cimen of strong, upright growth. The fruit has been sold in 
Philadelphia Market for nearly twenty years, but till recently 
very little notice has been taken of it. We would like to taste 
a finer, early pear than this. 

Moyamensing. — Fruit full, medium size, of a roundish-oval 
form ; lemon color, with occasional blotches and lines of russet 
Flesh buttery, melting, and well flavored. In eating from the 
middle of July till the end f August Originated in the gar- 
den of J. R. Smith, Esq., of this place. 

Washington. — Another American Pear, of first-rate quality. 
Fruit medium size ; oval form ; of a pale straw color, covered 
with brown dots. Flesh firm, white, melting and juicy. Ripe 
end of August and 1st of September. Downing' s figure of 
this fruit and description is perfectly accurate, though there is 
plenty of evidence to show that this tree must have been known 
forty years ago. I have seen grafted trees about fifty feet 
high, and a stem four feet in circumference. 

Bartlett. — Fruit very large, regular pyramidal form ; co- 
lor pale lemon-yellow, with a faint blush next the sun. Flesh 



PEAK. 



201 



white, very juicy, buttery, and high flavored. Ripe first of Sep- 
tember. 

Autumn Pears. — Seckel. — Fruit under medium size : color 
of a brownish-yellow, with a russety blush next the sun. Flesh 
yellowish-white, juicy, rich, and peculiarly high flavored. In 
rich, loamy soil the fruit is medium-sized. The parent tree still 
lives about three miles from Philadelphia. Ripe about first 
of September. 

Butter or TVTiite Doyenne, with about twenty-five other 
names. Fruit over medium size ; very regularly formed, 
round-oval ; color greenish-yellow, with a blush cheek. Flesh 
white, fine, buttery flavor, juicy and rich. Ripe 10th to the 
25th of September, varies very much in different soils. 

Beurre de Capiumont. — Fruit under medium size, regularly 
formed ; color pale yellow, with a dull red cheek. Flesh 
buttery, sweet, melting, and high flavored. Ripe in Septem- 
ber or early in October. 

Benrre Bosc — Fruit large, regularly pyramidal ; color 
brownish-yellow, with a reddish-brown cheek. Flesh white, 
melting, rich, and highly perfumed flavor. Ripe from Sep- 
tember to the end of October. A noble fruit. 

Fondante oV Automne.— Fruit medium size, half oval ; color 
' yellowish-green, slightly russeted. Flesh very juicy, rich and 
delicious. Ripe in September. We have not seen this fruit, 
but give it a place from the high character given to it by M. 
P. Wilder, Esq., President of the Massachusetts Horticultural 
Society, who is one of the best judges. 

Beurre Diet. — Fruit large, of an oval form ; color pale yel- 
low, when fully ripe, dotted with brown. Flesh yellowish- 
white, rich, sugary, and high flavored. Ripe from September 
to the end of November. 

Marie Louise. — Fruit fully medium size*; color greenish- 
yellow, with russety cheek. Flesh white, very buttery, rich, 



202 buist's family KITCHEN GARDENER . 

and high flavored. Kipe from September to October. Wo 
have had large crops of this fruit on trees only eight feet high. 

Duchesse d 1 Angouleme. — Fruit very large ; long oval, with an 
uneven surface ; color dull greenish-yellow. Flesh white, but- 
tery, very rich, and high flavored. Kipe in October and No- 
vember, and is frequently over one pound weight. 

Dix. — An American fruit, of large pyramidal form ; color 
dull yellow, dotted with russet. Flesh rich, juicy, sugary, and 
melting. Ripe in October. 

TJrbanisie. — Fruit medium size ; pyramidal form ; color gray 
ish-yellow. Flesh yellowish-white, rich, melting, very juicy, 
and high flavored. Ripe in October and November. 

Winter Pears. Columbia. — An American fruit, very 
large, oval form : color pale greenish-yellow. Flesh white^ 
melting, juicy and sweet, aromatic flavor, Ripe Novembei 
to December. 

Beurre d 1 Ar ember g.— Fruit above medium size ; oval form, 
with an uneven surface. Flesh white, rich, melting, and lus- 
cious flavor. Ripe in November and December. 

Chaumontel. — Fruit large ; oval form, with an irregular 
surface ; color yellowish-green, with a brownish-red cheek. 
Flesh melting, buttery, sweet, and luscious flavor. Ripe No- 
vember to January. 

Glout Morceau. — Fruit large ; regular, of a long, oval form ; 
color pale greenish-yellow. Flesh white, smooth, rich, and 
sugary. Ripe December to January. 

Lawrence. — This peculiar variety originated on Long Island. 
Fruit above medium size, rather oval ; color pale yellowish- 
green, spotted with brown. Flesh yellowish-white, melting 
juicy, very rich, and sugary flavor. {Downing on Fruits.) 
We have not seen this fruit, but have been informed by the 
Messrs. Parsons, of Flushing, that some of the fruit begins to 
ripen in November, while others continue ripening till March. 

Passe Ca.mar, with ab:ut twenty other names. Fruit large. 



PEAR. 



203 



of regular pear shape ; color yellowish-green, with a brownish- 
russet. Flesh creamy -white, with a buttery, rich, juicy, aroma- 
tic flavor. Ripe in December. 

Winter Nells. — Fruit medium size, roundish form ; color 
greenish-yellow, with a russety cheek. Flesh yellowish-white* 
smooth, buttery, abounding in a rich, aromatic juice. Ripe in 
December and January. 

Beurre Easter. — Fruit large, oval form ; color yellowish- 
brownish-green, with a russety cheek. Flesh white, smooth, 
buttery, juicy, and very sweet. Ripe in January, February, 
and March. 

Beurre de Ranz, — Fruit above medium, size, of a long, pyra- 
midal shape. Color rough, dark green, (rather untempting.) 
Flesh greenish-white, melting, rich, and juicy. Ripe in March, 
April, and May. 

Propagation and Culture. — The Pear, like the Apple, is 
propagated by seeds, budding, or grafting. By the former 
process / many new sorts have made their appearance in this 
country and Europe, of very superior quality, within the past 
twenty years. Those of the United States are not surpassed 
in their season by any others, and should always have the pre- 
ference when plantations are made ; their constitution and pro- 
ductiveness being acclimated, there is not likely any disap- 
pointment to arise from barrenness or other defects. There 
has, within these few years past, arisen up among us, some 
genuine pomological spirits, that will bring into notice many 
native sorts of this fruit that are at present either obscure, or 
entirely unkaown. It can be grafted or budded with great 
success on its own stock, and also on the Quince, and with 
partial success on the Apple. Grafting early in Spring, and 
budding in July and August. Every Pear tree of an infe- 
rior description should be headed down, or cut back in the 
branches, to within a few feet of the stem, and grafted with finer 
and more productive sorts. The new kinds will produce fruit 



204 



BUIST S FAMILY KITCHEN GARDENER. 



at once. The result would be, instead of Pears being worth 
twenty-five een*ts per bushel, they would at least be worth 
twelve times that amount. 

Planting the Pear, is precisely as described for the Apple : 
though they will admit of being as close as twenty-five or 
thirty feet. The finest trees we know, grow on a light, 
loamy soil, three feet deep, with a sandy, gravelly bottom. 
The worst soil we have observed them on, is composed of 
a sandy, thin, light nature, with a cold or wet bottom. 

Pruning. — This tree, in the first few years of its growth, 
after being transplanted, requires the aid of the knife in direct- 
ing the formation of its head ; but when once formed, it re- 
quires no further care, unless to keep the interior of the head 
thinned out, to allow a free circulation of air. Avoid making 
large amputations when pruning. The saw and the axe are 
dangerous implements in the hands of unskilful orchardists. 

Blight is the only disease in this country that attacks the 
Pear. Its remedies are not yet fully tested, and at present 
are very conflicting and unsatisfactory. The fact, that in some 
situations they are more subject to it than in others, shows 
conclusively, I think, that it is a local and not an atmospheric 
disease. 

The Insect Blight appears in July and August, and fre- 
quently has done much mischief before being detected — whole 
limbs dying, as it were, instantly. Remedy^ examine your 
trees frequently in those months, and as soon as you de- 
tect any of the limbs with the leaves having a drooping 
appearance, and in habit altogether different from the other 
portions of the tree, cut it off close to the main limb, and 
have it destroyed. The insect has girdled the pith, and 
prevented the circulation of the sap. 

Gathering the Fruit. Rather more attention ought to 
be given to the collecting and keeping the fruit of the Pear tree 



PLUM. 



205 



than it generally receives. All Summer fruit should be pulled 
a few days before maturity, and put carefully away, either in 
a fruit room or closet, till it ripens. Autumn fruits should be 
gathered eight days before being ripe, and put away in cotton, 
paper, or other dry material, in the dark. They will thereby 
greatly improve in color and flavor, and will be in use longer. 
Winter fruit should hang on the tree till frost, then be care- 
fully pulled, and put away for two weeks : when they should 
be wiped with a cloth, rolled up in cotton or paper, packed in 
boxes, or barrels of dry sand, and stored in a dry cellar or 
room, where they will not be severely frozen. Their flavor 
and color is greatly improved by this method. Id the Winter 
season, fruit should be brought into a warm apartment a few 
days before using, keeping it invariably in the dark. 



PLUM. 

Prunus domestica. — Prune. Fr. — Pflamnenbaum. Ger. 

There are some species of the Plum found in Asia. Europe, 
and America. It is an ancient fruit, held in high estima- 
tion by the Romans, who amused themselves (as history says) 
by grafting the Plum on the Apple. We are not surprised 
at these and other notions, for it is current in the present age 
that black Roses can be obtained by budding on Black Cur- 
rant bushes. When they grow, no doubt they will be black. 
It is not acknowledged to be a first class, healthy fruit, though 
it is admitted " they will not injure strong constitutions." 
When perfectly ripe, a few can be eaten to advantage, as they 
tend to keep the system open. The bark of the Wild Plum 
is used as a substitute for Peruvian Bark, in cases of inter- 
mitting fever. The fruit is considered indispensable as a con- 
serve. Nothing of the kind can equal Green Gage jelly, and 
preserved Washington Plums. The following are indispensa- 
ble for a good collection : 



206 



COST'S FAMILY KITCHEN GARDENER. 



Bleecker's Gage. — Raised in the State of New York. Fruit 
oval, of medium size ; color yellow, with white specks. Flesh 
yellow, rich, sweet and luscious. Eipe, end of August. Free. — - 

Downing. 

Coe's Golden Drop. — An English variety. Fruit very 
large ; long-oval : color rich, golden-yellow, with numerous 
brown dots. Flesh yellow, very rich and luscious. Ripe 
about the 10th of September, and will keep till October. A 
cling : will not do for preserving. 

Columbia. — A New York seedling. Fruit very large; 
round, fine form : color brownish-purple, with numerous specks. 
Flesh orange, if perfectly ripe, rich and sugary. Free. Ripe 
about the end of August. — Downing. 

Imperial Gage, or Flushing Gage. — Raised at Prince's 
nursery, Flushing. Fruit oval; medium size: color green, 
tinged with yellow next the sun. Flesh yellowish-green, rich, 
juicy, and delicious. Free. Ripe about the 24th of July. 

Green Gage, or Reine Claude. — The Plum of Plums. Fruit 
rather under size ; color greenish-yellow. Flesh green, very 
rich, juicy, melting, and very luscious. A great bearer. Free 
stone. Ripe about the 10th of August. 

Hiding's Superb. — A native of this country. Fruit very 
large : round-oval : color greenish-yellow. Flesh same color, 
firm, rich, and well flavored. A great bearer. Free stone. 
An excellent table or kitchen fruit. Ripe 4th of August, 

Morocco. — Fruit round : medium size ; color dark violet- 
purple. Flesh yellow, juicy, sharp, and well flavored. Ripe 
about the 24th of July. 

Nectarine, or Caledonian. — Fruit very large: oval; color 
purple, with a fine bloom. Flesh yellow, rich, and sharp fla- 
vor. Ripe about the Sth of August. 

Orleans Early. — Fruit round : medium size. Flesh green- 
ish-yellow ; color marbled-red, with a purple cheek : sharp, 
rich flavor. A free stone. A great bearer. Ripe about th« 
first of August. 



PLUM. 



207 



Jefferson. — An Albany seedling, and, according to report (we 
have not seen it), one of the finest sorts. Fruit large, fine, 
oval form ; color golden-yellow, with a red cheek. Flesh deep 
orange, very rich, juicy, and high flavored ; parts freely from 
the stone. Ripe about the 25th of August. 

Purple Gage. — Fruit round, medium size ; color reddish- 
crimson, dotted. Flesh pale orange, rich, juicy, and high fla- 
vored. A free stone. Ripe about the 15th of September. 

Quetsche. or German Prune. — Fruit very large, regularly 
oval ; color dark blue-violet when fully ripe. The skin sepa- 
rates very readily from the flesh, and makes a first rate dessert 
or kitchen fruit, Ripe about the 10th of September. 

Imperatrice. — Fruit oval, above medium size ; color deep 
purple, covered with bloom. Flesh firm, rich, and sugary, ad- 
hering to the stone. Ripe about the first of October. 

Washington (Bolmafs). — A New York seedling. Fruit 
very large ; round-oval ; color dull greenish-yellow. Flesh 
yellow, firm, sweet, and luscious, separating readily from the 
stone. Ripe about the 15th of August. 

Wine Sour. — Fruit medium size, roundish-oval ; color pur- 
ple. Flesh bright red, exceedingly juicy. A great bearer, 
and the best Plum for cooking. Ripe in September. 

It must be conceded that the character of the Plum is, in 
some measure, choice, good, or indifferent, according to situa- 
tion, climate, and soil ; yet we contend that bad soil and situ- 
ation will not entirely obliterate the good qualities of a choice 
fruit. 

CuLTURE.-»-The best soil for the Plum is a strong, loamy 
soil, on a dry bottom. In such they grow well and produce 
fine crops. 

Plant them at twenty-five feet apart, if in the orchard ; but 
if for family use, they should be planted on some paved yard, 
or other situation, where the fallen fruit will be carefully de* 
stroyed. 



208 



buist's family kitchen gardener. 



If the general nature of the soil is sandy, it will be benefited 
by a compost of very old manure and meadow earth, in equal 
proportions, being incorporated with it, where the trees are to 
be planted. 

Propagation is done with the greatest facility by planting 
the stones in the month of October, about an inch deep. These 
vegetate the following season, and can be transplanted into a 
convenient part of the garden in rows, to be budded the second 
year, in the month of J uly, in a period of cloudy, moist weather 
They can also be grafted very early in Spring, by either whip 
or wedge grafting, as recommended for the Apple ; but it must 
be observed, that stone-fruit does not take so readily by graft- 
ing as budding. Useless varieties of the Plum should be cut 
back, as advised for the Pear ; they will then make vigorous 
shoots, a portion of which can be saved and budded with choice 
varieties, Where there is not much room, and a variety of 
fruit wanted, we strongly advise several sorts of fruit to be 
worked on one tree ; by adopting this practice with all kinds of 
fruit trees, a great variety can be obtained in a very small 
space. In favorable soils their growth is rapid. There is, 
within fifty feet of where I write, a tree thirteen years from 
the stone, that is budded with four sorts, produces a large 
crop every season, is now thirty feet high, and two feet from 
the ground the stem measures three feet in circumference. 

Pruning is performed as directed for Pears ; but large am- 
putations should only be made in July, August, or Sep- 
tember. At that period the wounds will readily heal over, 

Insects. — The great and only foe of this tree is the Curcu- 
lio, or Plum- Weevil. A preventive to its ravages has not 
been discovered. We observe trees planted in pavements, or 
near to dwellings, are not so subject to its attack as those in 
cultivated ground or gardens. Some kinds are also more sub 
ject to it than others. With us, the following are entirely de- 



QUINCE. 



209 



stroyed by it : Coes' Golden Drop. Magnum Bonum, Kirk's 
Late Red, and Bingham ; while the Green Gage, Morocco. 
Wine Sour, Orleans, and Washington, are not or but slightly, 
injured. As a cure, fifteen or twenty pounds of salt, or salt 
brine, is strongly recommended by some. It is laid under 
the tree early in Autumn. This is to destroy the insects, which 
lie under the surface of the ground all Winter. We doubt 
not but repeated doses of this will destroy them. 



aUINCE. 
Pyrus Cyddnia. — Coignassier, Fr. — Quittenbaum, Ger. 

The Quince is supposed to be the Golden Apples of the 
ancients. It is a native of Austria, and is believed to have 
been cultivated in Britain three hundred years. Pliny 
writes, in his time, of their growing wild in hedge-rows, so 
large as to weigh down the boughs to the ground. Moderns 
use it only after being stewed, baked, or preserved. Quince 
marmalade is a favorite conserve, and Quince wine has been 
known to cure obstinate asthmatic complaints. There are 
only two varieties and a species that are worth notice. 

Apple, or Orange Quince. — The fruit large, of a round-oval 
shape ; skin very smooth ; color, when ripe, a bright golden- 
yellow. A clean growing tree and a great bearer. Ripe in 
September and October. 

Portugal Quince. — Fruii round, large size ; color bright 
yellow. A strong-growing tree and bears a fair crop. This 
variety is used as stocks on which to bud or graft Pears ; they 
fruit earlier upon it, and are much dwarfed by the process. It 
is a very general practice with the French, and for small gar- 
dens may be done to advantage in this country, but will not 
do for orchards. 

Pyrus Sinensis, or Chinese Quince. — Shrub of upright 
growth, with pink flowers. Fruit very large, long-oval, smooth 
and regularly formed ; color greenish-yellow. Flesh firm. 



210 



BUIST'S FAMILY KITCHEN GARDENER. 



rather dry. Ripe about the end of October. A beautiful 
preserve, of a bright pink col or, can be made from the fruit. 
A specimen before me is really beautiful.' 

Propagation. — This is readily accomplished by layers or 
cuttings, as they root in either way very freely. Lay down 
the shoots early in Spring, or during the mild "Winter months, 
and they will be rooted by the following November, when they 
can be planted out into rows till they are strong enough to be 
removed to the orchard. Cuttings taken off the old plants of 
the past year's wood, or even wood of two years old, cut intc 
lengths of about eight inches and planted into moist ground 
will root the first year and soon attain to be good plants. 

Soil. — A heavy, loamy soil, is said to be the best for the 
Quince. This is not borne out by results. The finest fruit 
I have ever seen is grown on deep, sandy loam, manured every 
season. If they are not well cultivated, they get knotty and 
deformed, producing fruit of like character. 

Pruning. — Very little assistance is required from the knife 
unless to give a direction to the formation of the tree, and for 
shortening any shoots that extend beyond the regular bounds 

RASPBERRY. 

Rubus ideus. — Framboisier. Fr. — Himbeerestrauch, Grer. 

Some species of this plant are natives of all temperate 
countries, and have been much improved by cultivation. Its 
fruit is extensively used for making syrups, wines, jams, and 
jellies ; it also forms an excellent dessert fruit, considered 
healthful, refreshing, and cooling. Of late, much has been 
said and written on the Raspberry ; but as yet, we may say, 
there are bu f , two or three sorts worth general culture. 



2l.ASPBEKi„Y. 



21 i 



Red Antwerp. — Canes dark brown, long, short-jointed. Fruit 
fairly thimble-shaped. Flesh firm, rich, juicy, with a fiae, 
sweet flavor. Ripe about the fourth of July. There is a va- 
riety called Red Antwerp generally cultivated, with small fruit, 
readily broken into pieces, and wood of a reddish-brown color. 

Franconia is a hardier variety than the former, and does 
better in colder latitudes. Fruit large, conical, of a bright red 
color. Flesh firm : flavor sharp ; rich and abundant. Ripe 
about the middle of July. 

White, or Yellow Antwerp. — Fruit nearly as large as the 
Red Antwerp : of the same shape. Flesh yellow, very tender, 
rich, and very sweet. "Wood yellow ; a great bearer. 

Fastolff. — Within the past few years this variety though) 
an old one with a new name) has created quite an excitement 
in England, and not a little in this country. We fruited it 
two years ago, and consider it one of the best reds, though we 
do not think it the very best. Fruit very large : of an oval, 
conical form. Flesh very rich, juice abundant, and makes a 
beautiful dessert fruit. It will never be a popular market 
fruit, being so soft that it will not bear carriage, but will hold 
its place for home consumption. Ripe 4th of July. 

Ohio Ever-bearing. — Fruit conical : color black : large size, 
produced in clusters on the points of the shoots. Flesh dark- 
red, juice not very abundant, produces through the whole sea- 
son till frost, and quite indispensaable on this account. Wood 
strong, of a dark purple color. 

There are several very astonishing and superior Raspberries 
raised from seed by an amateur gentleman of this city, some 
of them of a beautiful orange, and others of a bright amber 
color, whose true characters will be known in another year. 

Propagation. — This is of the easiest character. Give the 
plants rich, deep, sandy loamy soil, and they will send up an 
abundance of suckers every season, each of which will form 
a plant and produce fruit the year following. 



212 



BU1$T ? S FAMILY KITCHEN GARDENER. 



Planting. — They should be put out in rows three feet apart 
and four feet from row to row. Two hundred plants is not 
too many for a family. Give them plenty of manure every 
year. Dig deep, but not close to the bottom of the plant. A 
situation partially shaded, or naturally moist, though not wet. 
is the best locality. A plantation will last twenty years if 
properly attended to by enriching every year. 

Pruning. — The first fruit I ever pruned was the Raspberry, 
and it is the only one that can be reduced to a simple rule. In 
the Autumn cut out all the old wood that produced fruit the 
past summer, close to the ground ; tie up the new shoots to a 
stake or trellis, about five feet high ; then cut off about a foot 
of the tops of the shoots, and the work is done. In cold situa- 
tions the plants, after having been deprived of their old wood, 
have to be laid down all Winter, and covered with earth, Spruce, 
or Pine branches, till Spring, when they are lifted and iied up 
as above. The Ohio and Franconia varieties do not require 
this protection. 



STRAWBERRY. 

Fragaria, ysly—Ft -aider, Fr. — Erdbeerpflanze, Ger. 

The Strawberry, so called from the ancient practice,- — and 
still continued — of laying straw between the rows to keep the 
fruit clean. It is not properly a berry, but considered "a 
fleshy receptacle, studded with seeds." It is a wholesome and 
most luscious fruit, and wisely distributed by a bountiful hand 
over nearly every part of the world. Its cultivation has been 
little regarded till within the past thirty years ; and even at 
the present period is very imperfectly understood. Its health- 
ful influence upon nearly all constitutions, when taken in mod- 
erate quantities, is admitted by medical men. The demand 
for it in a commercial point of view is rapidly on the increase, 
which has created a desire to know its character and improve 



STRAWBERRY. 



213 



its culture. Its uses are generally known. A certain species 
of beauty is compared to u Strawberries smothered in cream," 
a portion of the dessert palatable to all, though the beneficial 
effects of the fruit is most certain when fresh from the vine, 
unmixed and unadulterated. The immense number of varie- 
ties now cultivated renders it rather difficult to select from 
them a few sorts that will continue the season to the longest 
possible period. In attempting to do so, however, we give pre- 
ference to varieties obtained from seed in this country, which 
resist the vicissitudes of our climate, and give more general 
satisfaction than any imported variety. Our selection com- 
prises two seedlings of Pennsylvania origin, one of New York> 
and one of Massachusetts. 

Early May — is a pistillate (female ?) variety. Fruit above 
medium size ; color bright red ; shape conical ; flavor very 
rich, with a delightful aroma. Ripened last year on the 14th 
of May (season two weeks later than usual). This variety re- 
quires to have a row of the Hudson strawberry planted with it 
to produce the very great crops of which it is capable. It will 
be a general market fruit. 

Hovey's Seedling. — This pistillate (female?) variety is now 
universally cultivated in every part of the United States, and 
greatly admired. Fruit very large, heart-shaped ; color dark 
red, when fully ripe : flavor good, with a fine aroma. Ripened 
last year about the 22d of May. This variety requires a few 
of the Hudson, or some other staminate sort to be planted near 
it, when it produces extraordinary crops. Is a general mar- 
ket fruit. 

Prize Seedling. — One of the finest flavored strawberries in 
cultivation. A staminate variety, and produces a crop of fruit, 
when planted alone, of very large size, of a rounded, heart- 
shaped form. Color dark crimson, when fully ripe, with a pol- 
ished surface ; seeds prominent. Ripened last year on the 
20th of May, and continues fully three weeks in bearing ; an 
unusual length of time with us. 



214 



buist's family kitchen gardener. 



Ross' Phatnix. — A staminate plant, producing a crop when 
planted by itself. Fruit very large, and frequently of a cox- 
conib-shape ; of a dark red color, with a smooth, polished sur- 
face. Flesh firm, and of a very ricL flavor, with a delightful 
aroma. Ripened last year about the 26th of May. 

Monthly Copii. — This variety of the Alpine Strawberry is 
an improvement on the old sort. The fruit is larger, of a finer 
flavor, and produces copiously the whole year, and is verita- 
bly a monthly Strawberry. 

There are several varieties recently produced from seeds in 
this vicinity, and other parts of the country, which will entire- 
ly supplant every foreign sort ; and we doubt not may even 
displace some of those we have named, though they are not yet 
fully proven. 

Propagation of Strawberries from Seed.— Every per- 
son who has any partiality for this fruit, that can devote 
a few hours to th£h: culture in their season, should sow the 
seeds of the very best kinds any time from August to 
April, in pots of light earth ; water them regularly, and 
they will be above ground in four or five weeks. After 
they have attained a few leaves to each, plant them into 
a piece of rich ground in the garden, about twenty inches 
apart. The second season they will produce fruit to prove 
their merits. The seed is obtained by drying the ripe fruit 
and washing the flesh from the seeds, which are all on the out- 
side of the berry; these seeds, when perfectly dry, will keep 
three years. Flowers that have an entirely green centre are 
called female, or pistilate — those that have a great many yellow 
stamens are called male, or barren plants — those that have only 
a portion of stamens around the base of the green, conical cen- 
tre of the flower, are called staminate or perfect blossoms. 

Soil. — All admit that the best soil for this fruit is a deep, 
light, rich loam, if not naturally deep to be made so by trench* 
iag. Rich it must be, if large and good fruit is required : 



STRAWBERRY. 



215 



therefore, prepare the ground the season before, planting and 
incorporating it with an abundance of manure, to the depth of 
eighteen inches. The exposure must be entirely free from 
the shade of trees or buildings. For early crops, plant on an 
aspeot that has an inclination to the south or south-east. For 
late crops choose the north or west. By this method the 
Strawberry season is greatly prolonged. 

Planting. — The periods for performing this is in March 
and April, or August and .September : in either of these 
months we have been equally successful. Beds four feet wide, 
each containing three rows, and the plants fifteen inches apart 
in the row, leaving alleys two and a half feet wide between the 
beds, for the operations of gathering, weeding, hoeing, &c. 
Never take any other crop from among them, except a few 
Radishes or Lettuce, the first season. Destroy the runners 
after the middle of July, unless they are wanted for plants ; 
hoe them freely, and keep the ground in an open condition. 
Some light, rough litter should be sprinkled over the plants 
during Winter, in cold localities. In light soils dig in be- 
tween the rows every Autumn, a few inches of well-rotted 
dung ; but in strong and deep alluvial soils it may be dis- 
pensed with. In dry seasons give the plants a few waterings, 
after they have done blooming, with any liquid manure, or other 
rich water, which will greatly promote the swelling of the fruit. 
A plantation will last three or four years ; and to have this 
fruit in perfection plant out a portion every year. For this 
purpose we advise to plant those sorts that are called pis- 
tilate or female plants, allowing every sixth row to be of a 
variety that is called staminate or male plants. This latter 
sort keep within bounds, to prevent the runners intermingling 
with the bearing kinds. It is a prudent precaution to lay 
straw or other clean material between the rows of the fruiting 
plants, before they come into bloom, to prevent the fruit being 
injured by heavy rains, sand, or dust, 
10 



216 



BUIST'S FAMILY KITCHEN GARDENER. 



Gathering the Fruit. — The common practice of picking the 
fruit with the footstalks attached, is one of the very worst sys- 
tems, causing them to be handled and re-picked before they go 
to the table. Early in the morning take a vessel, basket, or 
box, of convenient size, and pick the fruit before it is softened 
by the sun. Lay hold of the calyx or cup at the base of the 
fruit, with the nail of the first finger and thumb of the left 
hand, and with the first finger of the right, give the fruit a 
gentle but quick draw, and it will come oflf into the hand with- 
out the least bruise or damage of any kind — and thus proceed 
till your vessel is full. Strawberries should go to the table 
without being turned or handled in any way, when the full, 
rich aroma of the fruit will be preserved. Those that are car- 
ried to market to be retailed for family u&e, should all be in 
portable boxes, in the same way as Raspberries. The present 
mode is disgusting in the extreme ; large tubfuls, bruised and 
crushed, spooned into quart measures from vessels of very 
questionable character, in both color and appearance. The 
denizens carrying home their quantum of mashed matter, un- 
der the name of Strawberry, from such a mixture, can know 
little of the delicious aroma and rich flavor of the pure fruit 
called Strawberry. 



CftPHE END, 

•a 



* 





a\ .I'ti ^ 




^ A i ' JB 

,0 o • f| 



o5 





. A^ 




